I'm researching a cam swap. On virtually every thread I've seen, and even on videos I've watched the factory pushrods are cut and removed, and replaced with adjustables. Since my rear rocker box seeps oil anyway (just a drip or two on occasion) and needs gasket replacement anyway I'm thinking of reusing the OEM pushrods. Aside from having to R&R the tank, what's the downside to not using the adjustables? Who else reused the stockers? What pitfalls should I look for?

 

Nothing wrong with the oe rods, if your going to fix the rear leak anyway. Now depending on the cam some run adj prs and run the preload deeper to quiet the top end. Generally not a problem with mild bolt in cams.

 

If you need to remove the rocker boxes anyway, then maybe the solids are the way to go for your situation. Just make sure that the cams you install have the exact same base circle diameter as the stock cams you remove. Another upside to removing the rockers, again in your case since you are going to need a gasket, you can inspect bushings, etc., while you are in there and replace if needed.

You might also want to take a look at the lifters while you have it all apart in the event you want to upgrade those.

 

Some engines develop a tick after cam swaps. If you don't install adjustable rods, there will be nothing you can do about the tick. If you do, they give you the ability to adjust your lifter preload possibly eliminating unsavory engine noise.

 

Going back with a mild cam, probably the Andrews 21N. Same base circle. I can't find many how to's on reusing the OEM pushrods.

 

When I did my Fullsac Stage II Sleeper kit, I was able to use the stock push rods, they were in great shape.

Some folks may disagree with this but, I don't need/want any other nuts coming loose. (JMHO, others may vary)

YB

 

Get the service manual for your bike before you start work; it will answer many questions.

Easy R&R to reuse OEM pushrods. Get the rear wheel off the ground so you can rotate the crank with trans in 5th gear, spark plugs out. Remove or raise the tank; JMHO but removing is as easy and raising and gives you more room to work. Remove rocker box covers. Rotate crank until both valves on the cylinder you are working on are closed and the springs unloaded. Remove the rocker support bolts so you can raise the rocker support enough to move the rockers to the right or left and pull the pushrods.

The rear cylinder on early FL models is more of a challenge than the front; the frame back bone doesn't allow as much room to work back there but the procedure is the same. Reverse the procedure to reinstall. Tighten the rocker support bolts down incrementally to pull them down on the rocker box.

Remember that the intakes and exhausts are different lengths and finish; intakes are natural finish and shorter than the exhaust. Put them back in the right holes.

 

Go to your local Harley shop and ask for a Screamin Eagle racing parts catalog. Then go
to the pushrod section, different cams need different size pushrods, that why they make
adjustable pushrods. Now if you use adjustable pushrods every thing will go together,
and work well. The thing is that adjustable pushrods weight more then non adjustable pushrods, or what is called perfect fit pushrods. It is quick and easy to use adjustables,
but if all out performance is what you are after do some research to have the correct size
pushrods are installed. The less reciprocating weight in the valve train will let the engine
rev quicker in an all out performance engine.

Adjustable Pushrods make changing cams easy, non Adjustable Pushrods or perfect fit
Pushrods are the preferable way to go.

 

I did a cam swap last year and debated the same thing. Then I snagged a set of chrome rocker boxes and decided to reuse the stockers. Everything went well and ran fine although I had an occasional tick. A little later I went ahead and switched to the SE adjustable, a very simple swap and a little less tick.

 

Adjustables are handy but usually not necessary with a bolt-in (stock base circle) cam like 21/26. No one is gonna tell the weight difference on a HD street motor and nuts coming lose is rare (usually an installation issue). But since ya are going through the top; Bore and headwork is only 4 bolts away...