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Old Jan 8, 2014 | 07:53 PM
  #11  
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ddm502001
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Bought mine as converted takeoff from ebay dealer site hdheaders, came as ordered and fit up fine, kept the old header as a just in case but so far bike is fine as is, spent $130 has another set up for $120.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171201082236
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 09:05 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by RedGlide12
There is two opinions of the drill method. Guys who have done it and know that you CAN get every bit of the cat material out and guys that have never done it and think that there is no way you can get it all out. I have done it with a 16" long 1" paddle bit and 100% of the cat material was removed. You use the bit more as a rotating chisel than as a drill bit.
This is how I did it with success. It was a bit scary!
Suggestions:
1. Put the pipe in a sturdy vise,
2. Use a heavy-duty drill with a side handle, as it will try to bind & twist,
3. Hook up a shop vac to the side opening to reduce the dust,
4. Hang on tight & keep drilling... It will all come out!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 09:31 AM
  #13  
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I got mine for $135 (shipped) from this Ebay Seller: 2010-2014 Cat-Free Header

If you can look past the grammar/spelling errors in his description, you will discover that bobvic2 is "old school" and still does business the old-fashioned way: excellent workmanship - excellent service - excellent price. Plus, he ships fast and is very responsive to emails - AND you get to keep your OEM header!

This really is a no-brainer, IMHO.
 

Last edited by FenderGuy53; Jan 9, 2014 at 09:39 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 10:12 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
+1, and consider this:

the exhaust gas pulses travel back and forth within the exhaust pipes both muffler and header.

possible that any loose crap could get pulled into the cylinder.

ebay headers run about 4150 I am told, or check the tutorial in the link above and get a pal who can weld

mike
+1, if you have ever had one of these apart and removed all the material and glue/epoxy that holds it in there you can clearly see with the drill bit method there will be material left behind. This is a cheap mod by cutting and welding. Don't short cut it any more than it already is and possibly cause damage to your motor. Then you would really be strapped for cash.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 04:34 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by RedGlide12
There is two opinions of the drill method. Guys who have done it and know that you CAN get every bit of the cat material out and guys that have never done it and think that there is no way you can get it all out. I have done it with a 16" long 1" paddle bit and 100% of the cat material was removed. You use the bit more as a rotating chisel than as a drill bit.
yep, don't understand why people keep questioning this method. it works well.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 04:43 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by KCFLHRC
+1, if you have ever had one of these apart and removed all the material and glue/epoxy that holds it in there you can clearly see with the drill bit method there will be material left behind. This is a cheap mod by cutting and welding. Don't short cut it any more than it already is and possibly cause damage to your motor. Then you would really be strapped for cash.
You are 100% right on. Even after opening it up and chiseling the crap out you still have finish it up with a grinder to get it clean.
Drill method, that is for someone that lives in a dream world!!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Just Me
You are 100% right on. Even after opening it up and chiseling the crap out you still have finish it up with a grinder to get it clean.
Drill method, that is for someone that lives in a dream world!!

Again, anyone that has not actually done the drill method will "speculate" that it can not be done. I will bet that mine is just as clean on the inside and a hell of a lot cleaner on the outside since I did not have to cut up my pipe and weld it back together. I dont mean to hurt any feelings but really, how can you say somthing can not be done if you have not attempted it yourself?
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 07:17 PM
  #18  
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You cannot remove all the material without cutting a window. I have been a master Mercedes tech for the last 30 years I know what I am talking about. I bought a new bike take off from E bay for $ 23.00 plus $ 10.00 shipping. I cut a window in the pipe and removed all the material it was a bitch no way you can get it out from the end with a drill bit! Look on ebay for a pipe and cut a window in it and have it welded back up this way you will still have your old pipe.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 07:35 PM
  #19  
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I've got 2 "window method" catless headpipes for sale in the touring classifieds if u want one PM me!!
 
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Old Jan 9, 2014 | 07:44 PM
  #20  
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Just to add another data point. On my 2011 Stage One RGU I drilled a hole in mine with a 1 inch drill bit on a 16 inch extension. It removed the "hot spot" and added just a "little" more sound to my Supertrapp Fatshotz mufflers.

Once a year (as preventative maintenance) I remove, inspect, and clean my discs & closed end cap on each muffler. I've now done this 2 times and I have never found any catalytic converter material in the end of my mufflers or any material stuck between the discs. Nor have I experienced any engine problems.

After going "cat-less" my bike was dyno tuned using a PC5 and recorded 77hp/92tq.

regards,
 
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