Not at all. We're just trying to offer reasonable solutions. In the end, it's the OP's decision to make.

For me, it was a matter of convenience, time and peace of mind, so I opted to keep my stock header and buy a de-catted header on Ebay. Glad I did, too.

The OP seems to be in a hurry to get this done, and when you hurry, bad things can happen.


Nah. I don't think so. Not worth it.

 

As far as the strapped for cash part, a cost effective option is to buy a set of decatted pipes off ebay ($125 shipped) and sell your stock pipes with cats to americancustom.com ($100 less shipping).

Makes each of the techniques within a few dollars of being the same cost).

Both systems produce the same results, and both are covered up by the stock heat shields.

 

I tried the drill method, ended up breaking the drill before removing any material. I have the fabrication tools so I cut the window on the outside out of sight, gutted and welded the window back in. The cut and weld method took less time than setting up the drill and breaking it in the cat. It's what ever is easiest for the person doing it. Gutting did cool down my right foot considerably. I have a 2012 ultra limited. My bike does need a tune as it runs leaner now.

 

Which brings me to my question...If I put on one of the catless headers, do I have to get a fuel processor then or can I run everything stock minus the cat?

Duff

 

You do not need to get a fuel processor, however, when your cat has been removed, you are now able to use one (Vied or tuner) to add additional fuel if you wish. If you try to add fuel with the cat, it will just make the cat run even hotter.

New poor man's stage one is decat, Vied, High Flow air filter element.

Bike will run stronger, smoother, cooler, better throttle response, less shifting…all the good stuff. If you buy used, you can get away with only $100 or so net costs.

 

OK, So I have decided to try to drill out the CAT from my SG. I can always cut the trap door method if drilling is a failure. I still have not found out what type drill bit would give me the best results.

I have seen videos for the "trap door" method does anyone have a link to a video of the drilling method of going catless?

 

1 inch x 16 inch paddle bit, go slow when first starting out. it's a crude way, but works well.

 

Thanks everyone for the advice. Especially the smart ones who agree with me on how to proceed. Soon as we get a little weather break here in the mid-west, -6 degrees here on Tuesday, I'll get down on the cold concrete and drill 'er out.

I'll let your know how it works out. It's got to get better that stock.

 

Personally I wouldn't go thru the frustration of trying to drill it out if you are capable of the trap door method. You are guaranteed of perfect results cutting it open, don't have to buy a bit, won't be worried that you got it all out, won't be laying on the ground trying to hang onto the drill as the bit catches, won't burn out your drill, there could be some small pieces that could get sucked back up into the motor etc., etc., etc. Plus it's harder to drink beer laying on the shop floor versus working on the workbench...

 

Again, here it is...
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...oto-proof.html