Going Catless
There is two opinions of the drill method. Guys who have done it and know that you CAN get every bit of the cat material out and guys that have never done it and think that there is no way you can get it all out. I have done it with a 16" long 1" paddle bit and 100% of the cat material was removed. You use the bit more as a rotating chisel than as a drill bit.
Yep, Egggssssactley!!!! The cat can be gotten!!!
Before I went with Jackpots, I was able to get 100% out. The last 5% was a bear and took some time but it all came out and I verified with a boroscope I brought home from work.
Another pointer, I had a gallon of ice water sitting next to my work. I would run the drill for a minute and then dunk in the cold water to cool it down; the bit that is. It kept from melting the bit. I also used a piece of hollow copper pipe to hammer out some of the parts stuck to the walls.
Personally I wouldn't go thru the frustration of trying to drill it out if you are capable of the trap door method. You are guaranteed of perfect results cutting it open, don't have to buy a bit, won't be worried that you got it all out, won't be laying on the ground trying to hang onto the drill as the bit catches, won't burn out your drill, there could be some small pieces that could get sucked back up into the motor etc., etc., etc. Plus it's harder to drink beer laying on the shop floor versus working on the workbench... 
Done! It got up to 43 degrees today so I went to Lowes bought the 16 X 1" paddle bit, drilled out the cat clean. I removed the right exhaust and the crossover pipe to blow it all out and the Glider is sounding great after I got it back together. I've got a little popping on de-acceleration.
So right as of now I have a stock AC with Revolver Street Cannons and a decatted header. I only drove it a couple of miles I guess I'll know more after a long ride.
Didn't read about cooling the drill bit until after I was done. The bit is pretty beat up now but for $10.58 plus tax and a couple of hours total, it's a great deal!
So right as of now I have a stock AC with Revolver Street Cannons and a decatted header. I only drove it a couple of miles I guess I'll know more after a long ride.
Didn't read about cooling the drill bit until after I was done. The bit is pretty beat up now but for $10.58 plus tax and a couple of hours total, it's a great deal!
Last edited by Danny D; Feb 7, 2014 at 04:19 PM.
I did my 11 flhtk pipe. I got a 14" extender and a 12" 1 1/4" space bit. Don't breathe that dust in. I got every last bit of that cat out of the pipe and it only took an about an hour. Would have been faster had the drill not over heated. Don't even try it with a cordless drill.
Last edited by stevil66; Jan 25, 2014 at 06:29 PM.
I have read the same arguments many times on whether you can get all the material out using a drill and I almost have to laugh,what difference would it make if you actually did leave a couple thousand's of material anyway?ZERO!
+1 and you're absolutely right!
The cat is gone!
It's like everything else, so it's up to your personal taste. I thought my Cannons sounded good to me but others who were around me said there was very little difference from stock mufflers when the cat was still installed.
But the combination of no cat (or headers I guess) with SE Street Cannons is a noticeable rumble. Also now that I removed the cat, there is no going back. I always ride with ear plugs anyway.
It's like everything else, so it's up to your personal taste. I thought my Cannons sounded good to me but others who were around me said there was very little difference from stock mufflers when the cat was still installed.
But the combination of no cat (or headers I guess) with SE Street Cannons is a noticeable rumble. Also now that I removed the cat, there is no going back. I always ride with ear plugs anyway.
I just finished drilling mine out. It was a lot of work, but I got it without cutting a window.I put a stiff wire wheel on the end of a bit extender and ran it in the pipe to get the last of it clean.








