Locktite?
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Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: NC
Locktite?
Ok, a little back ground:
On my previous bike I had installed offset highway pegs and lost one of my pegs going down the highway. I purchased another set of pegs for my Ami-Lou (2011 Ultra) and was going to use locktite to secure them. I have seen blue, red, and purple, but don't know which one to use. I am leaning toward blue. Any recommendations?
Thanks
On my previous bike I had installed offset highway pegs and lost one of my pegs going down the highway. I purchased another set of pegs for my Ami-Lou (2011 Ultra) and was going to use locktite to secure them. I have seen blue, red, and purple, but don't know which one to use. I am leaning toward blue. Any recommendations?
Thanks
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 662
Likes: 1
From: Kelowna, BC, Canada
Yup, blue is medium which is basically the general purpose one. Red is high strength. You use that when you want a "permanent" hold. You can use heat to break the bond though. Blue can be broken by hand tools alone. I don't know what the purple is.
I've had my pegs come off before. Loctite ever since.
I've had my pegs come off before. Loctite ever since.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
Blue is good for general use, and what i use the most.
locktite cures when exposed to heat, if used in an application which is not heated- it may not cure and stay kinda gummy.
for this type of thing I often paint the threads with clear nail polish. It'll break loose if deliberate force is applied
mike
locktite cures when exposed to heat, if used in an application which is not heated- it may not cure and stay kinda gummy.
for this type of thing I often paint the threads with clear nail polish. It'll break loose if deliberate force is applied
mike
Blue will work, so will red....
I've never used heat to break red, I just horse it out. Blue, once you get the initial break, will allow the threads to move. Red is like unscrewing a locknut.
I've never used heat to break red, I just horse it out. Blue, once you get the initial break, will allow the threads to move. Red is like unscrewing a locknut.
Last edited by SafetyMan; Feb 25, 2014 at 12:07 PM.
Negative sir, quite the opposite in fact.
From their website:
Anaerobics, that include many of our threadlockers, pipe sealants, retaining compounds and flange sealants, are products that cure in the absence of air. These are products that are designed for metal-to-metal assemblies although they are sometimes used for other materials as well. The presence of metal (ions) accelerates the cure of these products. When you assemble parts with an anaerobic and you have excess squeeze out, outside the joint, this will not harden due to the anaerobic nature of the product. Simply wipe the excess away with a common solvent like acetone or isopropyl alcohol. Typically anaerobics fully cure in 24 hours at room temperature under normal ambient conditions when properly used.
Yes, you can heat cure anaerobics to achieve faster full cure. Typically you can heat cure these products at 250°F (125°C) for about one (1) hour or go as low as 150°F (66°C) for about three (3) hours. The one trade off is the fact that you will probably reduce your ultimate strength some. Whenever you accelerate the cross-linking of the polymer, you can reduce your ultimate strength. Carefully test for suitability.
Last edited by SafetyMan; Feb 25, 2014 at 12:13 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 150
Likes: 7
From: S.E. Iowa
From their website: "Threadlockers are a single component anaerobic adhesive comprised of unique liquid resins that harden (or cure) to a durable solid when exposed to metal ions in the absence of air. The anaerobic cure mechanism allows the adhesive to flow and evenly settle to lock and seal threaded fasteners without curing permanently. Any excess threadlocker will remain liquid, and is easily wiped away from the assembly."
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
From: Tucson
I use blue #243 on most parts. Don't use purple unless you want to lose them again. It's weak and for small fasteners.
Here's a chart showing the different grades: http://henkelna.com/us/content_data/...ide_032010.pdf
Have fun, ride safe
Here's a chart showing the different grades: http://henkelna.com/us/content_data/...ide_032010.pdf
Have fun, ride safe
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,687
Likes: 6,473
From: Honah Lee
Cannot go strictly by color since I have 5 grades and they are all red. However, when I took the peg mounts off my bike to put fwd controls on, they were held with red. Before I could get the first bolt all the way out, the torx was just about trash. I hate to use 400+ degrees on paint, so I just used my impact. I would use red (permanent prefix) if you want to be safe, reliable and use your bike for travel. You truly do not want it coming loose some night 400 miles from home on a dark interstate. Last trip, I was driving onto a ferry ramp and the small setscrew holding my stirrup (poor boy floorboards) worked loose and dropped down rattling across the steel grate. I drilled thru and pinned them with split roll pins when I got home. Crap like this could get you hurt.
Heat above 400 kills loctite. Loctite dries in the absence of air (why the bottles are 1/3 full) Also why they make different grades for fine and coarse threads and sleeves. I also clean with lacquer thinner and use loctite primer (especially on the compensator nut or bolt depending on year.
Heat above 400 kills loctite. Loctite dries in the absence of air (why the bottles are 1/3 full) Also why they make different grades for fine and coarse threads and sleeves. I also clean with lacquer thinner and use loctite primer (especially on the compensator nut or bolt depending on year.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Feb 25, 2014 at 12:22 PM.
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Advanced
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
From: Tucson
Cannot go strictly by color since I have 5 grades and they are all red. However, when I took the peg mounts off my bike to put fwd controls on, they were held with red. Before I could get the first bolt all the way out, the torx was just about trash. I hate to use 400+ degrees on paint, so I just used my impact. I would use red if you want to be safe and use your bike for travel. You truly do not want it coming loose some night 400 miles from home on a dark interstate. Last trip, I was driving onto a ferry ramp and the small setscrew holding my stirrup (poor boy floorboards) worked loose and dropped down rattling across the steel grate. I drilled thru and pinned them with split roll pins when I got home. Crap like this could get you hurt.
