When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i have been reading up on gear drive cams, my indy want to inst all a set on my RG. i know i read about the run out on our cranks being out of tollerance for them. my question is what does it actually take to get gear drives to work in the new bikes? not saying im running gear or chain at this point and this is not a debate of which is better. im asking for my own knowledge if i want to put gear drive in my bike whats required??
i have been reading up on gear drive cams, my indy want to inst all a set on my RG. i know i read about the run out on our cranks being out of tollerance for them. my question is what does it actually take to get gear drives to work in the new bikes? not saying im running gear or chain at this point and this is not a debate of which is better. im asking for my own knowledge if i want to put gear drive in my bike whats required??
From what all I gather the main reason people go with a gear driven cam is to rid themselves of the chain tensioner on the older models. They aren't really that bad to wear out on the newer models as the older ones are. When I changes out my cams 2007 96" flhx the hydraulic tensioner were still in great shape with 50,000 miles
I just had mine done by an indy last month. The only requirement was for the run out on the flywheel to be less than "3" (Cant remember if its .03 or .003?) But while your in there, you will want to do the bearing, lifters, cam plate, etc. Im sure if you wanted to you could just replace the gears and leave all the old guts in there, but you will eventually have to go back in there. So might as well do it now when you change out to gear drives.
If the runout spec is too great, it's expensive to fix it. Cases must be split. I don't know how they true up a crankshaft. Bend it in a press? Machine it on a lathe? However it's done, when it's true they then weld it together to prevent future movement. Chains are much more forgiving, plus they are affordable relatively speaking. Not to mention downtime. If you order gear drive, only to find .005 runout at install time, you're pretty much dead in the water until the crank work is done. If you order chains, and find .005 you're on the road in a couple of hours. Either way, I'd do bearings for sure. As late a model as yours is, I'd risk the lifters and camplate and run them as is if the budget was tight. You'll also need gaskets. I went through the top to save on adjustable pushrods but if I do it again I'll cut the stockers and replace them with adjustables.
thanks for the info guys. this is sometihn im going to tackle this coming winter. sop i have plenty of time to decide for sure. doing my stage 1 now for this year. gonna see how i like it and may not even want cams
Very first thing is to check your crankshaft runout. Everything follows on from that. If it is good enough you can go gears, if not you have two choices: stay with what you have, but change cams; or have your crankcase stripped and the crank trued into spec.
IMHO the main reason the gear cams came out was as an upgrade for the TC88s, which had the cam tensioner problems, which were put right by the MoCo with the TC96s. The gear drive hum mentioned was one reason the MoCo went to chains, to reduce engine noise, there are a lot of noise generators on the right side of the bike, what with induction, exhaust, cams etc.
You can go gear gear drive if your within .003, but remember, if it ever goes past .003 after you get the gear drives it could destroy them. You have a newer bike and there is no reason to go gear drive. Older bikes 99 to 02 are the best to put gear drives in, they have Timkin crank bearings plus the cranks were forged and hot pressed together unlike the newer cold pressed cast cranks, thats why they slip so much easier.
thanks for the info guys. this is sometihn im going to tackle this coming winter. sop i have plenty of time to decide for sure. doing my stage 1 now for this year. gonna see how i like it and may not even want cams
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.