Right switches dont work after some work
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Des Moines
I just got out of shower and was thinking- if i unplug the right connector altogether. Then set a jumper wire across for the kill switch, and put in two pig tails for the start switch - when those pigtails touch, it should start.
This will eliminate any issues with pinched wires or switches.
Am I thinking right on this?
This will eliminate any issues with pinched wires or switches.
Am I thinking right on this?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,471
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From: Charleston, SC
I've had the same thing happen and all it was was I mis-pinned the connector by two whole wires.
Might want to go over it again at the connector before disassembling everything again.
Another thing to check is the fuse box and continuity from each wire to the handlebar itself.
Also, at least wrap the wires in electrical tape. Heat shrink is better. I had a wire rub and fray once and the right turn signal would come on all by itself. Like all day on a 200 mile ride. Was interesting to watch everyone react to it. lol.
lp
Might want to go over it again at the connector before disassembling everything again.
Another thing to check is the fuse box and continuity from each wire to the handlebar itself.
Also, at least wrap the wires in electrical tape. Heat shrink is better. I had a wire rub and fray once and the right turn signal would come on all by itself. Like all day on a 200 mile ride. Was interesting to watch everyone react to it. lol.
lp
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 27
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From: St Helens UK
Wiring
OK , this may or may not be relevant in your case, but I just helped a mate change the bars on his 2013 Road King and we routed the switch wires through the bars. we extended the wires soldering the connections back to the block connectors. However when we checked the lights, the left switches worked as did the lights/ ignition but nothing from the right hand side switch gear, no indicator or starter.
Wires checked again and again, all appeared correct, fuses checked then we were about to give up when I noticed that two block connectors were exactly the same both black and the plugs could be interchanged. This is where the switchgear blocks connect in the headlamp shell, behind the fairing I would assume in other models. Swapped them and sorted! ,that was the problem, we had plugged the male blocks into the wrong females, they look identical.
May not be your case but check as its very easily done.
Cheers
Wires checked again and again, all appeared correct, fuses checked then we were about to give up when I noticed that two block connectors were exactly the same both black and the plugs could be interchanged. This is where the switchgear blocks connect in the headlamp shell, behind the fairing I would assume in other models. Swapped them and sorted! ,that was the problem, we had plugged the male blocks into the wrong females, they look identical.
May not be your case but check as its very easily done.
Cheers
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,423
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From: Northern, Ohio (Yuck!)
Im definately not blowing fuses.
I will recheck all connectors before pulling the wires to look for a pinch. The plug in question has been rechecked multiple times and Im pretty sure it is good. Im considering getting rid of the plug altogether, and plug each pin in individually to ensure that they are all connecting. Or at least the two from the starter switch and the two from the kill switch.
The thing that I am still confused about is I can have my son hit the start switch (only two wires coming out of the switch) and I can be checking for ohms (Two connectors away from the switch), and I can see that the switch was pushed.
Even if there was a pinched wire other than my start switch, the starter should still engage right?
I will recheck all connectors before pulling the wires to look for a pinch. The plug in question has been rechecked multiple times and Im pretty sure it is good. Im considering getting rid of the plug altogether, and plug each pin in individually to ensure that they are all connecting. Or at least the two from the starter switch and the two from the kill switch.
The thing that I am still confused about is I can have my son hit the start switch (only two wires coming out of the switch) and I can be checking for ohms (Two connectors away from the switch), and I can see that the switch was pushed.
Even if there was a pinched wire other than my start switch, the starter should still engage right?
If you have checked and the problem isn't on the switch side, then the problem isn't on the switch side. I know that sounds stupid, but it doesn't make it untrue.
I trouble shoot automated industrial equipment and I know that sometimes I become so sure that I know where the problem is that I ignore the evidence that shows the problem is not at that place.
You keep saying "pinched wire". What do you mean? A wire that is pinched thru the insulation can be a short or it can work just fine if the actual conductor is touching anything. A wire that has been pinched in two is either a short or an open. Wires are not hoses, just pinching them like a garden hose does not impede the flow of electrons...
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Des Moines
Thanks to everyone for the help. I just wanted to follow up on this.
The pins inside the molex connector were up too far (pushing the white piece too far out) making it difficult to connect properly.
I took it apart, the reconnected the pins in the molex. All good now!
The pins inside the molex connector were up too far (pushing the white piece too far out) making it difficult to connect properly.
I took it apart, the reconnected the pins in the molex. All good now!
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