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My neighbor has an Ultra Geezer Glide, I think it a 2012....I adjusted his clutch for him a couple of days ago and he was amazed at the difference.
He said that he always thought that they were supposed to clunk.
His bike has been dealer serviced since it was new....But as we all know, most dealership mechanics are "MMI HACKS"!
Do not run any thicker oil then spec since there are small diameter needle bearing in transmission that need washed over. The clunk is the square drive dogs on the side of the gears dropping in to engage each gear range. The gear teeth themself are always engaged. That clack is just the small amount of clearance between the drive and drive gear cavity and also the freewheeling cluster shaft stopping. Hurts nothing but I change transmission oil when I change engine oil to help get rid on any stray rubbings that are created. To eliminate the first gear cold startup clack, simply put it in first, pull in clutch and use your butt to push back bike about a few inches. You will fill the stuck from oil clutch disks causing a lot of drag. Still pushing, in another few inches, you will fill them breaking free and the bike will roll much easier. Simple when it fills free, flip the key switch and when the fuel pump timer kicks off hit the key and start it. It may lug fwd a tad but very little. I would rather do this then hear it cold clack. The other clacks are not going away unless you get lucky and time you shift speed and rpm perfectly...just about impossible with a Harley in my opinion. In my attachment, the gear 26 is normally engaged in the cluster shaft and when you shift, the drive dog 18 moves over and locks it to the other shaft and engages the gear range. Item 3 is one of those small needle bearings that need correct oil for lubrication.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:07 AM.
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