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I got new tires and I'm taking my wheels to local guy for mounting. I read the threads about removing lower shock bolts for the rear and putting a bucket, etc under the front. Now when I remove the front, should I put something under the rear swing arm to keep it from rocking when removing the front wheel??
If your guy is very local and you don't have a bike lift, take him one wheel at a time. I can jack my Harleys up OK, to take both wheels out, but only safely take out one wheel of my Buell, so that's what I do for that bike.
I should have added that my tyre guy (local Yamaha dealer!) is only a couple of miles away.
Last edited by grbrown; Apr 28, 2014 at 12:24 PM.
Reason: Added para.
you don't have to support the back when you take off the front wheel - the bike is front heavy on a jack is why you support the front. you also don't have to go as high. joe
Took wheels off last night and dropped them off for mounting. Should have this afternoon. Little tricky not dinging the tins while taking off the front brake calibers. I taped the edges of the fender and real glad I did. Walking through install in my head and the rear looks to be tricky simply because of holding the tire while installing the belt and lining up the brake caliber. Think I can make it easier by letting the wife run the jack and lower the bike to the right height while I line everything up. Am I barking up the right tree??
Over the years I have found the best solution to installing the rear tire on touring bikes is to just use alot of muscle. I straddle the rear fender and lift the tire with one hand and get the axle started with the other hand. Theres no easy way to go about it. Either muscle it out and use a dead blow or spend an hour lowering the bike onto the tire while trying to keep the spacer and caliper lined up
Over the years I have found the best solution to installing the rear tire on touring bikes is to just use alot of muscle. I straddle the rear fender and lift the tire with one hand and get the axle started with the other hand. Theres no easy way to go about it. Either muscle it out and use a dead blow or spend an hour lowering the bike onto the tire while trying to keep the spacer and caliper lined up
If the bike is lifted enough, you can use a small trolley jack under the rear wheel to move it into position without any drama.
Op - you will need to check the belt tension when reinstalling the rear wheel.
I've managed to strain my back in the past, fighting that darned rear wheel, so use a bit of subterfuge and guile these days! It is essential to lift the bike high enough to provide space to manoeuvre the wheel out and back in. I leave the bike up in the air and use small blocks of wood on the floor to take the weight of the wheel when removing it and later to lift it back into position, to refit the axle etc. I have found that lowering a hydraulic bike lift (at least the one I have) is not something capable of providing a fine degree of control, so I don't risk that!
Over the years I have found the best solution to installing the rear tire on touring bikes is to just use alot of muscle. I straddle the rear fender and lift the tire with one hand and get the axle started with the other hand. Theres no easy way to go about it. Either muscle it out and use a dead blow or spend an hour lowering the bike onto the tire while trying to keep the spacer and caliper lined up
This is exactly the way I've always done it but thought there was a more graceful way of doing it. Yea, I marked the snail adjusters before removing the wheel. With a bit of luck belt tension should be on spec.
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