I just got done having my bike dyno tuned after my recent cam swap. I have to say.......today's dyno tune was much, much better then the one I had last fall. R&R doesn't use the Tuning Link Software, so they just throw numbers in the cells and hope for the best and do a bunch of runs. Today at MotoMilano, they do have the Tuning Link Softwarr and they let the software do all the work and settings, and then check the AFR after each column was done. AFR was set at 13.6 from 0-40% columns and 13.2 for 60-80% columns and 13.0 for 100%. It was very cool to watch the dyno&software work with the bike to do the whole tune......very good job indeed. After that was done, we did some exhaust tuning to try and get the best happy medium for low end and top end.

SE 1550 flattop pistons
Big Boyz Ported/Polished Stock Heads
9.6-1 CR
Cometic .030 Head Gasket
HQ-0034G cams
Supertrapp 2-1 w/ 15 discs & closed endcap
Zippers 320 CFM air cleaner
PCIIIusb
SE Quick Install Pushrods
Autolite sparkplugs



That is todays dyno chart = 96.8 torque & 90.2 hp



Below is my old dyno chart with the same build but the Andrews 26G cams in place.



That build did 94.12 torque & 87.44 hp.

I didn't gain as much as I thought I would with the cam swap, but it feels much stronger then it did before. No more pinging, and the tune was done very well today.

This is what my stage 1 looked like last year





Steve

 

Hey Steve, do you think the 26g not feeling as strong as the 0034 was a result of the first tune not being quite right? Curious if you would have had the 26g tuned at MotoMilano if you would have gotten better numbers initially.

 

Note, your late dyno sheet used STD correction and very little if any smoothing compared to your first dyno sheet (those guys know how to operate a dyno) used SAE correction and maximum smoothing.This means thatyour second sheetis approx 5-10% higher just due to dynooperating proceedures.

 

Hey Steve,you still gonna chase that 100/100 or you gonna give it a break for awhile? You know they are road tractors not rockets..........................hoodz

 

Steve do you think the cam swap was worth the extra $, it seems when i make changes they never perform as good as I hoped they would.

 

Honestly, no I don't think it was worth it, but I did get rid of the pinging. And I hear ya about getting your hopes up and never living up to them.

I've already debated going back to the 26's, that would cheap enough to do and only take a few hours of my time. But I would want the tune checked out, that's another $225 for the dyno time.....the money tree has fallen over and died.

It's weird because this current build feels stronger then the 26 build, but the numbers don't support that. I realize the dyno runs were on totally different machines, different times of year.....all the variables have me wondering if the numbers from my 26 build were askew a bit. I think it feels stronger because of the torque that I have between 2000-3000 with this new build, the 26's doesn't look as though they made the power that low.

Oh well..............riding season is here, and I'm just going to put 10000 miles on it and see what next winter brings....LOL

Steve

 

Sorry to cloud your issue bybringing up the dyno differences in my previous post, it's just that you can't make"apples to apples" comparisons based off of those graphs.Unfortunately dyno numbers are often"optimized" either thru operator ignorance or intentionally.

Also, the butt dyno is not very accurate, especially numbedV twinrider's butts. I've been fooled and I've proven to others that they can be fooled from percieved and actual performance. On the other hand, when I see stated, "it feels stronger", even if it's weaker, that "feel" to many, is most important. Good luck with your project.

 

Thats a nice torque curve you got there with the new tune. It's interesting about the pinging you mention with your old cams and not having it with the new setup. I was really nervous about my bike with 10:1 would be a pinger but it has not been a problem. Yesterday I was out with the OL on the bike and I tried as hard as I could going down 2000 rpm and rolling it on hard in 5th, no pinging. I think to get the power you want you'll have to up the compression and it will be right up there in the 100's. I know high compression is a concern especially with these heavy bikes, but with the right cams and timing it's not a problem.

 

Looks like a lot better TQ curve Steve, should feel really good on the ole B dyno glad it turned out good ,sorry you didn't reach the magic #'s any 2nd thoughts about rather you should have gone with the 39"s?

 

It's hard to really make out the A/F charts, however it looks to me that you are bumping the 14 line a lot, that would be a lean condition, good to bump the numbers, not good for the engine. Most dyno info I've come across says to shoot for 13.7