I agree that haydens product is best utilized on older bikes. Lots of guys have had continuously good results. On the newer bikes, well, it ain't workin'. Baker, in my opinion, is the ultimate answer for anyone concerned about primary chain tension.

 

I'm starting to think the the stock HD tensioner (the latest, revised version) might not be so bad, after all.

Thanks

 

The M6 I received from Hayden is an excellent product perfectly adapted to the geometry of the standard gearing and chain of my 96ci engine. IMO the misunderstanding concerns the permanent spring tension against the shoe.
Each model of roller chain specifies the maximum force applicable to its "standard" tensioner; understand: same chain = same tension.
Even if our primary chain is pushed beyond characteristics in terms of power (effort between links), the mass of the links remains unchanged.

I did my best to find a eventual weakness of the shifting, to feel chain slack, perceptible noise, elastic feel of the clutch in stop and go traffic, chain slack while downshifting and engine braking between 2,500 and 4,000 rpm coming down local mountain passes ... There is nothing wrong with the M6, give yourself another chance and restore credit to Hayden who don't deserve bad reputation.

"Regina" builds all kinds of roller chains and they know their products, how to dampen vibrations, lubricate and provide the best service; but they encountered a specific problem with the OEM tensioner.
"Baker" seems to be another firm seeking excellence and was my next option in-case I would have faced a problem.

It would be nice to share experience with those who used a single spring instead of the manufacturer's recommendation.

And YES, I still have the initial CLUNK when my clutch is cold. The person who discovered viscosity should be put to sanction

 

I live upstate NY and visit my kids in Colorado often after I do my thing from So. Dakota to Utah. I don't baby my Bike. It's paid for and plan to keep it for as long as I can fix it.
Also, she clanks when not at the rite RPM's caclink caclink, I know its the chain too much play then too much tension. I figured I'd get rid of the Hydraulic set up.


I have no problem with Baker or Barnett, just saying what Barnett told me about Bakers product and thought I'd through it out here on the forum.

 

I don't doubt it...Take it up with Barnett and for 200+ it should be 99.9%

 

I installed a Hayden in my bike last year and now have about 5000 miles....I can't see, hear or feel anything negative yet...I will be opening my primary this winter sometimes to change my clutch plates, 88000 miles it started to slip a bit after a long ride when I tried to pass a car on a incline while on my trip to Canada, it worried me a bit but my primary sounds good and just whirszzzz a bit.

 

This will be my final comment on this topic, as I have moved away from the Hayden (and sold it on Ebay) to the Baker Drive-train Attitude Adjuster...and very happy I did.

The idea that a customer is put in a position to re-engineer a product to "force" it to work is evidence to me that for some bikes, the Hayden is just too tight with the as-engineered dual spring configuration. Who knows what could happen with one of those springs removed. How do we know that a single spring has the lateral and vertical strength and operational longevity to withstand the constant up and down inside that primary? If it fails, then you have pieces of steel floating around in your clutch basket, compensator, around bearing faces and bores, and absolutely no tensioning action at all. We have read posts documenting that sections of these springs did break off; we have heard stories of the tensioner shoe wearing down more than what was considered normal and in one case, pieces breaking loose from the shoe.

We remove and replace parts all the time on these HD bikes to make them better, but all I know is what it looked like and felt like in my bike, a 2010 Ltd. Installed per the instructions, with both springs, that Regina chain was banjo-string tight cold...and that is simply not acceptable knowing that the chain gets tighter as the engine casing expands with heat. The primary chain was much tighter cold with the Hayden than with the stock tensioner just before I removed the stock unit. I will also add that it was a bitch to install because of the force it was delivering to the chain.

As I stated before, I believe that on older bikes or even newer bikes with higher mileages, bikes where the primary chain has endured lots of use and has actually worn or stretched a tad, the Hayden tensioner may be a viable option. It's evident via posts on this forum that many owners have the tensioner on the higher mileage and/or older bikes and have had no trouble or concerns.

I doubt that you will get much engineering related feedback on the use of just one of the intended springs. Seems to me that engineering modifications, changing/removing parts, testing, re-engineering, testing again, and marketing, should be a job best suited for the good folks at Hayden.

The Hayden tensioner is a good concept. But in it's current configuration, it is just not ready for prime time without some more work and material upgrades.(IMHO)

 

I for one am not messing with the springs... When I took out my stock tensioner it was IMHO too tight... and after I installed the M6 was about the same or less as the stock tension. I think that having a set tension is a good idea but I thin also that the next best thing is a format like the M6... Maybe like Low Country Joe said, It might work better because my bike has 87000 miles on it and the primary chain is polished up and stretched good to where the M^ offers the perfect tension...All I know is my bike shifted or sounded or felt no worse with the M6 than stock... A couple HD techs told me my IPB failure might and was probably cause by too tight a tensioner... Time will tell...

 

I just checked my stock adjuster 10k miles it was way over tight. So I just backed it off till the chain had 5/8 inch slop in it and welded it. I will check it every 5k miles and readjust it if needed. Grind the weld off than reweld.

 

I just installed the Baker as well as upgraded to the '14 SE compensator. When I removed the stock tensioner I had about 1/4" inch of free play in the chain. I wonder how tight my chain was getting when hot?

I set the Baker at 3/4" of free play. After a short test ride the bike shifts much smoother, finds neutral much easier, and the first gear clunk is practically gone especially when hot.