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Ape install nightmare, help needed!

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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 12:09 AM
  #11  
Nbdzhro's Avatar
Nbdzhro
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He's got an SGS. No cutting or soldering needed. However you may have damaged the switch units. I damaged my right side when I did my install. Replaced with the lighted switches.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 12:26 AM
  #12  
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CLL375
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Like most have said already. Its the Green TBW connector. I normally cut them off an solder the wires.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 01:29 AM
  #13  
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Is there not enough length on the stock wiring to run the 10" 578s ? You may want to consider removing the extensions and just use the stock wiring. The extensions could be causing the issue..
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:37 AM
  #14  
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do not solder any wires in the tbw. there is two wires in there that work together to create a 5 volt signal between both of them. you will change the resistance of these two wires with solder and things will go wrong. also as Nbdzhro has said right side switch control could be damaged. i had this happen also and just a note for what it cost to replace just one switch control you can buy the lighted upgrade set for about $50.00 more. another note if you go with the screaming eagle tbw the terminals ends are backwards from 2014 sgs. you would need six terminal sockets to crimp on the wires after you cut off the se ones. part no# (72168-07) if you do not have a manual you may need one for wiring diagram. also the se tbw wire colors do not match to your factory wires so you need to figure that out. can-bus system is very sensitive.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:45 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by king124
do not solder any wires in the tbw. there is two wires in there that work together to create a 5 volt signal between both of them. you will change the resistance of these two wires with solder and things will go wrong. also as Nbdzhro has said right side switch control could be damaged. i had this happen also and just a note for what it cost to replace just one switch control you can buy the lighted upgrade set for about $50.00 more. another note if you go with the screaming eagle tbw the terminals ends are backwards from 2014 sgs. you would need six terminal sockets to crimp on the wires after you cut off the se ones. part no# (72168-07) if you do not have a manual you may need one for wiring diagram. also the se tbw wire colors do not match to your factory wires so you need to figure that out. can-bus system is very sensitive.
I cut and soldered mine with no problems.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 07:52 AM
  #16  
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king124
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Originally Posted by vickers1
I cut and soldered mine with no problems.
do you have a 2014 model ?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 08:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by king124
do you have a 2014 model ?
No, I was just stating a fact and naysayers were saying the same thing about the pre-14 bikes as well.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 09:19 AM
  #18  
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CLL375
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Originally Posted by king124
do not solder any wires in the tbw. there is two wires in there that work together to create a 5 volt signal between both of them. you will change the resistance of these two wires with solder and things will go wrong. also as Nbdzhro has said right side switch control could be damaged. i had this happen also and just a note for what it cost to replace just one switch control you can buy the lighted upgrade set for about $50.00 more. another note if you go with the screaming eagle tbw the terminals ends are backwards from 2014 sgs. you would need six terminal sockets to crimp on the wires after you cut off the se ones. part no# (72168-07) if you do not have a manual you may need one for wiring diagram. also the se tbw wire colors do not match to your factory wires so you need to figure that out. can-bus system is very sensitive.

Soldered mine together and 4yrs later its still running great with no problems.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 11:02 AM
  #19  
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Found the problem. I took the dreaded TBW off of my SG, put it on my friends SGS, bingo, problem solved. I must have damaged the original one installing it through the bars. So, tomorrow, I will go and get another one for mine. This was the first 14 that I have done and it taught me a few lessons. One, the TBW is VERY DELICATE. Two, I am almost sure that when I do my 12's, the clutch and brake hoses will not be long enough unless I can figure out how to route them differently than one with the 10's. This is how we learn.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2014 | 12:04 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by silverbullitt
Found the problem. I took the dreaded TBW off of my SG, put it on my friends SGS, bingo, problem solved. I must have damaged the original one installing it through the bars. So, tomorrow, I will go and get another one for mine. This was the first 14 that I have done and it taught me a few lessons. One, the TBW is VERY DELICATE. Two, I am almost sure that when I do my 12's, the clutch and brake hoses will not be long enough unless I can figure out how to route them differently than one with the 10's. This is how we learn.
i put ness 13" bars on mine and the brake line was long enough but had to go 4" over on clutch possible rerouting might work. i also changed to se tbw and as i stated before the terminals are just the opposite for 14 sgs. soldered on new terminals and guess what code with limb mode! i bought new terminal sockets and cut them off one at a time crimping new ones on one at time. problem solved. guess my bike doesnt like solder in the tbw unless i used the metric stuff by accident. ha ha
 
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