Battery voltage question (again)
the stator output is rpm dependent and is in measured is AC volts- the old spec was 16 to 20 VAC per 1000 RPMs
the battery not only stores energy but is used to help regulate "spikes" from affecting the bike's systems so that voltage is not jumping from 14.8 volts to 10 volts if shifting gears for example...when rpm changes instantaneously.
these are all vehicle electrics basics and unchanged - the only real change is the switch from DC generators to alternators in the late 60's.
as pointed out above ( and many times) the in dash voltmeter is not an accurate indicator of charging system operation, it is subject to voltage drop in the wiring harness and affected by the other loads, such as lights, horn etc.
diagnostic measurements are taken at the battery.
The OP's observations are "normal"
...a bike idling at 1000 rpms may put out 16 volts AC, some of that is lost when the waves are chopped into DC by the regulator...and the bike's electrics area load, lights, radio, fuel pump...all that stuff so to see 12 VDC more or less is normal
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jun 2, 2014 at 01:56 PM.
www.mmbalmainauto.com.au/PDF/State_of_charge_12_volt_batteries.pdf
if you have questions about the source, a quick google will show this chart to be universal and accepted figures
12.7 volts shows a 100% charged battery
Last edited by mkguitar; Jun 2, 2014 at 12:52 PM.
When I am actuating the throttle (giving it gas) the Voltage gauge on the fairing shows 14V but when I let go the throttle it drops to about 12.7 V. I put a volt meter on the battery and the battery shows the same voltage as the gauge on the fairing. So is this normal?
I am worried it may be the regulator starting to go. The dealer says it is but I do not trust them 100%. BTW, I did put a new battery and it does the same thing
and talked to an "expert" , he said it is normal. Thanks so much. I thought I had an excuse to buy a 2014. Oh well
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
again- at abut 1000 rpms +/- 50 ( idle speed) the stator will output about 16 to 23 volts AC. ( source 2009 service manual table 7.2, the previous spec was 16 ~20 for Evos and early twin cams)
that AC is rectified to DC by diodes- this is done with a diode bridge which essentially chops the tops/ bottoms off the AC current sine wave..resulting is a straight line DC voltage.
this process sacrifices voltage..converted to heat ( and voltage will be limited to under 14.8 DC.. shed as heat)
The net voltage to the battery will be less than the 16~23 volts the stator was producing at the 1000 rpm idle speed.
the battery is a reservoir and will provide power for all the lights, fuel pump, radio, ecm etc
but the idling bike will be about 12 volts-ish depending how much stuff is running...honk your horn, you'll see the meter jump down, hit you spots and high beam, the meter will go down
the battery will also condition the electrical system from spikes which may occur if the rpms change rapidly
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jun 2, 2014 at 05:28 PM.
again- at abut 1000 rpms +/- 50 ( idle speed) the stator will output about 16 to 23 volts AC. ( source 2009 service manual table 7.2, the previous spec was 16 ~20 for Evos and early twin cams)
that AC is rectified to DC by diodes- this is done with a diode bridge which essentially chops the tops/ bottoms off the AC current sine wave..resulting is a straight line DC voltage.
this process sacrifices voltage..converted to heat ( and voltage will be limited to under 14.8 DC.. shed as heat)
The net voltage to the battery will be less than the 16~23 volts the stator was producing at the 1000 rpm idle speed.
the battery is a reservoir and will provide power for all the lights, fuel pump, radio, ecm etc
but the idling bike will be about 12 volts-ish depending how much stuff is running...honk your horn, you'll see the meter jump down, hit you spots and high beam, the meter will go down
the battery will also condition the electrical system from spikes which may occur if the rpms change rapidly
mike



