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Crank runout

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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 05:43 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Wild Card
Say what now. Measuring crank runout is measuring crank runout...dont give a damn if its a shovel, evo 99tc 2012 tc of a 6btCummins.


No doubt! I'd like to have someone demonstrate how to measure crank runout a different way.

Probably some BS one of those MMI graduate dealership hacks told him!
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 07:05 PM
  #12  
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My crank is .005 and I have no issues. My engine runs smooth with no vibration in he floor boards at all.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using IB AutoGroup
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 08:10 PM
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You best let someone else take a look at it. Your crank will work with that run out. Running like crap after the first time he worked on it is not a good sign!
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 08:24 PM
  #14  
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Get that bike out of this guys shop, he doesn't know what hes doing. With 95km on it (Im assuming thats about 58k miles), he should have replaced the lifters the first time he had it opened.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #15  
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I would look up the 'original' (as published in the Service Manual) factory spec for my year, and go with that as the recommended runout. If the factory amended that value and increased the spec after the fact…wow…. Just…wow.

Alan
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #16  
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Got .007 and runs like a champ smooth as glass and same oil pressure it had new and now it has 30,000 miles on it.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 10:09 PM
  #17  
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I say your runout is good. It could be the bushings were scored on cam plate, bad inner bearing or the cam plate isn't flowing oil properly.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 01:03 AM
  #18  
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.004 Damn, That's pretty good. Your within range. Sorry but that person really F you up really nicely. Get you bike back and chalk it up as lesson learned...
 
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 08:54 AM
  #19  
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so Im really wondering what let loose in the motor,,Im thinking the cam plate and pinion shaft were off a tooth probably,would explain why it wouldnt time right,,rpms wouldnt return when throttle let off,,shook like crazy,,never had these problems before it was worked on,,thinkin my best bet now is ,bring home my road king turned basket case and put it back together myself.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 10:48 AM
  #20  
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Sorry your mech friend has screwed-up your bike.

A lot to comment on, but first the run-out. Guess you mean .004, which is cool. Remember that if you mic a piece of regular copier paper, it's about.005, so that's the tolerances we are talking about. Everything from the crank through to the bearings have some imperfections, so all those imperfections add-up to a certain degree of available mis-alignment that can exist in harmony with the rest of the engine. Here's what my 2010 looked like when I did my cam swap to the 57H grinds:


I would love to feel what .001 would be like, but I would never pay to true, plug, and weld my crank. That's way beyond my performance expectations from this bike. So I am happy with my mediocre run-out.

If you heard something snap, it's hard telling. Maybe the mechanic screwed up and let one or more of the needles (when removing the internal cam bearings) fall out and into the crank side when he was removing them. That can cause all kinds of damage and sounds if those get picked-up. Here's what the old INA bearings looked like in my 2010 before I removed them (crank visible through the bearing bores):



Here they are removed:


And here are the Torringtons that replaced them:


Maybe one of those internal cam chain tensioners disintegrated and some of the pieces have been sucked into your oil pump. What did they look like when they were removed? Maybe even some of the metal worked loose and migrated to unwanted places.

If he didn't get the oil pump O-rings back just right, you could be leaking oil into the crank area and the bike will never make any power and will overheat very quickly.

If he didn't time the cams correctly with all of the timing marks, of course that will cause the bike to run abnormally.

If he didn't replace the lifters back in their "home" holes, then that "might" cause some issues with lifter rotation, lifter to cam scoring, and potential lifter oiling issues.

Did he go back with stock or adjustable push rods? I am guessing he used the stock rods since he didn't replace the cams.

Who knows what he did on the top end and did he get it all back together properly? Could one of the rockers be hitting the inside of the covers?

I would be suspect of anyone that could so quickly diagnose a "noise" and "swear" that he could fix it for just a little money. Run from this guy...that's my take.
 
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