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Brake Issues far from home.. HELP PLEASE!

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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 05:45 PM
  #11  
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Calipers were off to change the front and back tires only today SR. Tim,were you ab le to do this with the calipers on or did you have to tak ethem off again?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 05:46 PM
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I took them off it wasnt that hard to do and it was fairly quick
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 05:49 PM
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When I originally put them back on after the tire change I seen the calipers moving but they weren't moving enough to do the job after the good cleaning they worked alot better
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 06:03 PM
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Your first post indicated you had to pump the brakes for them to be firm, that would be air in the lines. Maybe the bleeder screws are allowing air back in. I put Teflon tape on mine, but I had the entire caliper off for a rebuild at the time. Otherwise, as Tim found, the pistons just aren't moving enough. The pistons in my rear caliper were so dirty they were jammed at an angle. Had to used pliers to remove them. Hence, new rebuild kit with pistons and seals. Been meaning to rebuild the fronts too, but I think they'll just need seals and a good flush.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 09:33 PM
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wonder if a warped rotor when rolling could push the pistons too far back,then have to pump to get em back out?
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:05 PM
  #16  
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I would re-bleed and service the calipers per Lyndall's tech page.
http://www.lyndallbrakes.com/service-tech/
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:12 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by notdrphildrmike
Hey Guys and Gals,
So I'm at a friends house about 50 miles from home. We took apart the front and rear wheels and replaced the tires. Checked the brakes and everything was good except the fluid. Bled the brakes. Now, if I pump the brakes I get a really good grip however as soon as I begin moving I lose all braking ability in front and sometimes rear. Do you think we just need to bleed more? I cant keep the bike here as I need to get home and it's my daily driver. Help!!! If you can...

Thanks for your time!
You have air in the lines...do you use a speed bleeder? If you can buy a 50 cc syringe at a farm supply store , suck the fluid from res to caliper...it will eliminate any air.
 
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Old Jul 6, 2014 | 11:15 PM
  #18  
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Check the rotors for warping.

Under normal operating conditions, the pads (when released) are very close to the rotors. Applying the brakes doesn't move them all that much.

BUT -- even with a small amount of "warpage" in the rotors, the sideways movement is enough to "push back" the pads/pistons so that the "first pull" of the lever/pedal ends up being a "much greater movement" to get the pads up against the rotors. Thus, "pumping" the brake will result in a usable brake, but that first pull seems to "get you next to nothing".
 
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 06:02 AM
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the principle of hydraulics is a liquid can't be compressed. Gas (air) can be. Air is the bane of hydraulic brakes. If u don't have brake fluid pissing all over the floor then I'd say u have air in ur lines. Might be ur procedure is questionable.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2014 | 06:20 AM
  #20  
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....so how did you make out? find the problem?
 
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