Possible Voltage Regulator issue?
Thread Starter
|
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Alpharetta, Ga
Possible Voltage Regulator issue?
I'm in a crunch....
A few weeks ago, The Volt gauge on my 2001 Ultra Classic (Carb'd) started dropping lower and lower with each ride. I would charge the battery but still run in the same range (between 10-12v). Finally a few days ago, the bike would not start at all. I charged the battery again and it seems to have a very decent charge but, I get no volt reading at all on the gauge, it remains at all the way to the left (dead) 8v when I turn the bike on.
Does that sound strictly like my Voltage Regulator or should I be worried that the Stator is gone also? Is there anyway I can test this?
A few weeks ago, The Volt gauge on my 2001 Ultra Classic (Carb'd) started dropping lower and lower with each ride. I would charge the battery but still run in the same range (between 10-12v). Finally a few days ago, the bike would not start at all. I charged the battery again and it seems to have a very decent charge but, I get no volt reading at all on the gauge, it remains at all the way to the left (dead) 8v when I turn the bike on.
Does that sound strictly like my Voltage Regulator or should I be worried that the Stator is gone also? Is there anyway I can test this?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
you can easily test the charging system, the tech section/electrical has a diagnostic sticky.
you need a fully charged battery to test.
in short- pull the plug from the stator use an AC voltmeter to check the stator output, you should have 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 rpms ( so 3000 rpms = 45~60 volts AC). rev the motor the results should be pretty linear.
check the resistance in the stator coil with ohm meter ( specs in sticky) , check for shorted stator to ground
if both good:
the VR converts the AC to DC and limits the power to the battery to under 14.8 volts DC- higher than that and the battery gets "cooked". any ac voltage passing through the VR is a fail, any drain from the battery through the VR when the bike is off is a fail
sometimes the wire from the VR to the battery chafes on the frame, run your finger along it.
IF you are doing the DC checks with a duff battery, that will skew all your figures as the battery instead of providing power is a big big drain on the charging system and can damage it.
if you need a battery, most of us use the Big Krank from batterymart- mine came thru amazon, about $100 delivered
mike
you need a fully charged battery to test.
in short- pull the plug from the stator use an AC voltmeter to check the stator output, you should have 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 rpms ( so 3000 rpms = 45~60 volts AC). rev the motor the results should be pretty linear.
check the resistance in the stator coil with ohm meter ( specs in sticky) , check for shorted stator to ground
if both good:
the VR converts the AC to DC and limits the power to the battery to under 14.8 volts DC- higher than that and the battery gets "cooked". any ac voltage passing through the VR is a fail, any drain from the battery through the VR when the bike is off is a fail
sometimes the wire from the VR to the battery chafes on the frame, run your finger along it.
IF you are doing the DC checks with a duff battery, that will skew all your figures as the battery instead of providing power is a big big drain on the charging system and can damage it.
if you need a battery, most of us use the Big Krank from batterymart- mine came thru amazon, about $100 delivered
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Jul 7, 2014 at 11:38 AM.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 855
Likes: 6
From: Riverside, Ca.
you can easily test the charging system, the tech section/electrical has a diagnostic sticky.
you need a fully charged battery to test.
in short- pull the plug from the stator use an AC voltmeter to check the stator output, you should have 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 rpms ( so 3000 rpms = 45~60 volts AC). rev the motor the results should be pretty linear.
check the resistance in the stator coil with ohm meter ( specs in sticky) , check for shorted stator to ground
if both good:
the VR converts the AC to DC and limits the power to the battery to under 14.8 volts DC- higher than that and the battery gets "cooked". any ac voltage passing through the VR is a fail, any drain from the battery through the VR when the bike is off is a fail
sometimes the wire from the VR to the battery chafes on the frame, run your finger along it.
IF you are doing the DC checks with a duff battery, that will skew all your figures as the battery instead of providing power is a big big drain on the charging system and can damage it.
if you need a battery, most of us use the Big Krank from batterymart- mine came thru amazon, about $100 delivered
mike
you need a fully charged battery to test.
in short- pull the plug from the stator use an AC voltmeter to check the stator output, you should have 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 rpms ( so 3000 rpms = 45~60 volts AC). rev the motor the results should be pretty linear.
check the resistance in the stator coil with ohm meter ( specs in sticky) , check for shorted stator to ground
if both good:
the VR converts the AC to DC and limits the power to the battery to under 14.8 volts DC- higher than that and the battery gets "cooked". any ac voltage passing through the VR is a fail, any drain from the battery through the VR when the bike is off is a fail
sometimes the wire from the VR to the battery chafes on the frame, run your finger along it.
IF you are doing the DC checks with a duff battery, that will skew all your figures as the battery instead of providing power is a big big drain on the charging system and can damage it.
if you need a battery, most of us use the Big Krank from batterymart- mine came thru amazon, about $100 delivered
mike
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
flhtc04
Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel Injection
18
Apr 3, 2014 04:28 PM
