gotta fall away
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 14
From: washington dc
fall away
I need to test head bearing tension on my 09 SG, using fall away. I'm chasing a rare clunk on the extension stroke of my forks.
When I did it the last time (which was the first time I did this), all of the batwing internals were removed for the triple tree project I was on.
What's the minmum stuff to remove before performing this test? I've a rather heavy amp and really heavy speakers. Remove them? Should the clutch cable be removed from inside the faring?
Thanks
When I did it the last time (which was the first time I did this), all of the batwing internals were removed for the triple tree project I was on.
What's the minmum stuff to remove before performing this test? I've a rather heavy amp and really heavy speakers. Remove them? Should the clutch cable be removed from inside the faring?
Thanks
Last edited by jefla; Jul 11, 2014 at 04:55 PM.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 14
From: washington dc
KCFLHRC wonders if my heavy amp and speakers are contrbuting to my occassional front end clunk, which I think is coming from my modded forks.
I've wondered a zillion times about the wisdom of putting heavy audio inside our batwings. I really don't like the added weight.
I've wondered a zillion times about the wisdom of putting heavy audio inside our batwings. I really don't like the added weight.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 14
From: washington dc
I'm again trying to get guidance on performing the fall away test on my lightly modified 09 SG. On rare occasions I have a clunk on compression when hitting sharp rises, like a speed bump.
How much must be disconnected or removed from inside the batwing before performing the test. When I last performed the test the front end was stripped of all batwing stuff. My HD manual does not get to this point and Clymers's pics suggest a stripped bike. I think that's wrong. Because it's so much work to remove everything, I would expect HD to develop a test for a bike in standard trim w/ only the outer fairing removed. That's what 0734 said in a 2009 post. See https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...away-test.html ("Everything that was stock on the bike when it rolled off the showroom floor should be on there. If anything heavy has been added or removed, this alters the behavior of the swing.")
So, should I remove my heavy BT 7.1 pro speakers and 2180 amp?
Alternatively, because I've added weight in other ways, including Kuraykn driving lights, a KW Slicer fender (much heavier than OEM) and Hog Pro rims (a bit heavier than OEM) that cannot be removed, can we agree on a modification to the test for bikes with balanced but heavier front ends? It seems the number of swings would decrease as weight goes up, especially weight that's far from the centerline, like speakers. For these bikes is one swing back to center good?
Thanks
How much must be disconnected or removed from inside the batwing before performing the test. When I last performed the test the front end was stripped of all batwing stuff. My HD manual does not get to this point and Clymers's pics suggest a stripped bike. I think that's wrong. Because it's so much work to remove everything, I would expect HD to develop a test for a bike in standard trim w/ only the outer fairing removed. That's what 0734 said in a 2009 post. See https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...away-test.html ("Everything that was stock on the bike when it rolled off the showroom floor should be on there. If anything heavy has been added or removed, this alters the behavior of the swing.")
So, should I remove my heavy BT 7.1 pro speakers and 2180 amp?
Alternatively, because I've added weight in other ways, including Kuraykn driving lights, a KW Slicer fender (much heavier than OEM) and Hog Pro rims (a bit heavier than OEM) that cannot be removed, can we agree on a modification to the test for bikes with balanced but heavier front ends? It seems the number of swings would decrease as weight goes up, especially weight that's far from the centerline, like speakers. For these bikes is one swing back to center good?
Thanks
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
Refer to 1.21 in your manual...
in short- remove non-stock access.
disconnect clutch cable & pull back through fairing
remove wiring harness P clamp rivet if they appear to be influencing the swing rate
mike
in short- remove non-stock access.
disconnect clutch cable & pull back through fairing
remove wiring harness P clamp rivet if they appear to be influencing the swing rate
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; Feb 1, 2015 at 11:44 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,170
Likes: 14
From: washington dc
wow. that's embarrassing. I've always been a bit bad at glossing over instructions. .. There's a lesson in here for me just in time for the compensator upgrade I'm about to tackle. Thanks
Last edited by jefla; Feb 1, 2015 at 07:45 PM.
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I'm again trying to get guidance on performing the fall away test on my lightly modified 09 SG. On rare occasions I have a clunk on compression when hitting sharp rises, like a speed bump.
How much must be disconnected or removed from inside the batwing before performing the test. When I last performed the test the front end was stripped of all batwing stuff. My HD manual does not get to this point and Clymers's pics suggest a stripped bike. I think that's wrong. Because it's so much work to remove everything, I would expect HD to develop a test for a bike in standard trim w/ only the outer fairing removed. That's what 0734 said in a 2009 post. See https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...away-test.html ("Everything that was stock on the bike when it rolled off the showroom floor should be on there. If anything heavy has been added or removed, this alters the behavior of the swing.")
So, should I remove my heavy BT 7.1 pro speakers and 2180 amp?
Alternatively, because I've added weight in other ways, including Kuraykn driving lights, a KW Slicer fender (much heavier than OEM) and Hog Pro rims (a bit heavier than OEM) that cannot be removed, can we agree on a modification to the test for bikes with balanced but heavier front ends? It seems the number of swings would decrease as weight goes up, especially weight that's far from the centerline, like speakers. For these bikes is one swing back to center good?
Thanks
How much must be disconnected or removed from inside the batwing before performing the test. When I last performed the test the front end was stripped of all batwing stuff. My HD manual does not get to this point and Clymers's pics suggest a stripped bike. I think that's wrong. Because it's so much work to remove everything, I would expect HD to develop a test for a bike in standard trim w/ only the outer fairing removed. That's what 0734 said in a 2009 post. See https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...away-test.html ("Everything that was stock on the bike when it rolled off the showroom floor should be on there. If anything heavy has been added or removed, this alters the behavior of the swing.")
So, should I remove my heavy BT 7.1 pro speakers and 2180 amp?
Alternatively, because I've added weight in other ways, including Kuraykn driving lights, a KW Slicer fender (much heavier than OEM) and Hog Pro rims (a bit heavier than OEM) that cannot be removed, can we agree on a modification to the test for bikes with balanced but heavier front ends? It seems the number of swings would decrease as weight goes up, especially weight that's far from the centerline, like speakers. For these bikes is one swing back to center good?
Thanks
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Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2011
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Likes: 14
From: washington dc
Thanks, fabrik8r. I got the Ricors from you and have read your explanation elsewhere. I think that's what I've got going on, but I'm checking everything.
Brian at Ricor thinks the cause is too much preload. Mine is 39 mm. I have 1 kg RT springs. Brian thinks with those springs and my 210# weight, always solo, I should have only 25 mm of preload. All other resources (Rick @ CCE, RT, etc.) recommended 35-39 mm of preload.
Brian at Ricor thinks the cause is too much preload. Mine is 39 mm. I have 1 kg RT springs. Brian thinks with those springs and my 210# weight, always solo, I should have only 25 mm of preload. All other resources (Rick @ CCE, RT, etc.) recommended 35-39 mm of preload.
