Does anybody know how to adjust the hot-cold idle on a 01 Road King Classic (fuel injected)? My haynes manual does not coverfuel injected models.

 

You are going to have to consult the Harley Service manual on that one. IIRC it is kind of a tricky adjustment to get right on those early FI models. The idle adjustment screw is on the lower right hand side on the throttle body where the aircleaner bolts on. You will need a long skinny screwdirver to get to it. On an M&M injected bike there are also some airbleed holes that need to be cleaned periodically. The manual explains how to do this IIRC. Sorry, it's been a while since I sold my '99 RKC. Good luck.

 

you need experience or the manual
Remove air cleaner.
on the bottom right side of the throttle body is a small hole
(it is visible with backing plate on). Takes a T-10 Torx wrench.
That IS THE WARM IDLE
now with backing plate off (easier to see).
ON the right side of Throttle body is where your cables connect.

On the right sidethrottle shaft is a series of coiled springs and at the outer most
end of the shaft is a metal cup facing inward. On the top of this cup towards engine
is another small set screw. This is the cold idle. DO NOT ADJUST THIS, AS IT IS ECM CONTROLLED VIA FEEDBACK FROM THE Engine Temp Sensor....

My 01 EG and 01 road king police are setup this way

 

Read through this procedure and I think you see it's what you need. This forum has it all
https://www.hdforums.com/m_321434/tm.htm

 

My bike it is an ALLEN wrench head,
And According to MY SERVICE MANUAL it is THE COLD IDLE ADJUSTMENT.
It's on PAGE 9-33 figure 9-27
The book does say it is a T10 but on mine it is definitely an allen screw.
But it was replaced that is the reason why.(forgot I replaced it a few years back)
Setting cold idle isn't bad, but you do need service manual and a digital volt ohm meter
for setting it the right way. Break out box is a good thing to have, but
can be done with out it.
Yes These are ECM controlled but that is where they are located and what they are.
But if you don't have the tools take it to a shop.

 

Well after reading the manual a little more (not done yet) and talking to a dealer tech, and going back to my fuel injection schooling on autos and such, a little clarification is in order here.
I will try to keep it as simple as possible and this will NOT be all inclusive.
On a fuel injection back in 01 as to the original post.
when you first turn ignition on and bike is cold (like after overnight).
Through the throttle position sensor (tps) the Ecm reads the postion of the throttle plate.
(closed, part open full open). depending on the opening, the tps sends a signal to the ECM (read in volts). Then along with the other sensors determines bike is cold.
Reads cold start fuel,air,timing map.
Now as you are idling (still cold) the ECm controls the IAC (idle air control motor) to set the idle speed. REMEMBER THIS IS JUST BASIC HAPPENINGS HERE!!
As engne warms up ECM reads signal from Temp sensor (in head).
From this and all other sensors it adjusts the fuel, air, and timing based on a signal
it gets from the baro / map and the tps.
When you open throttle to take off, ECM reads this new signal, and the map (manifold pressure which works somewhat like a vacuum advance on a old distributor system).
This basically tells the ECM if you are under light or heavy throttle or pulling a hill.
It then adjusts the f/a/timing accordingly. And so on.
But during a first setup of the bike (say you change out the tps or the throttle body)
The ECM must have a starting point. Here is where you REALLY need the Digital VOLT ohm meter (doing computer work it MUST BE a DIGITAL METER) and it is easier if you have a break out box, but not absolutely necessary.
Let's say your tps needs changed or adjusted or you're replacing the throttle body.
Hook up your equipment as per the manual. Then with ignition on but engine not running.
You read the tps signal back to ECM write it down.
Then you back off the idle (I believe warm idle- but need the book here) til throttle is completely closed. Read this signal and write down (more to it but this is basic remember).
Now change your parts out.
Now when you put the tps back on, adjust it on the slots till you get the last reading again. This gives the the original starting point back for the ECM.

But as to your original question. Yes you can make a MINOR cold idle adjustment with the cold idle screw without all the meters. But it has to be very minor.
But it still really should be done by a shop if you don't have the experience and tools to do it per the manual.
Hopefully this helps explain this a little more

 

I have a 2001 Ultra with Magnetti Marelli FI. Setting the idle on these things is a bit tricky. First question. Is there a problem with idle as it is? Most guys want to drop it down to 7-800 rpm to get that nice potato potato sound. Not good. Recommended idle is 950 -1050 rpm. Good luck

SB

 

The guy above asked.
Course if he does do it, he has to make sure it does not interfere with the IAC, but it can be done.
When weather warms up I need to do mine. Did 95 kit and cams.

 

Thank You all for your comments/suggestions and advice. In response to Seminolebagger yes thereis a problem I brought it to the shop and they put in on the computer. I would have just had them adjust it then but they said they would have to keep the bike over night because the cold idle needed to be adjusted first and the bike was already hot.Since the shop I go to is about an hour away from my house I was unable to do that. Does anyone know where or if I could buy a Scanalyzer? It sounds like that is the prefered way to adjust the idle if you have one, at least that what the shops use.