Auto tuning with power vision
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,648
Likes: 37
From: Monroe, Louisiana
I wouldn't worry at all about the top right as only time you can hit them is while idling and rapping the throttle. The lower left is when decelerating and aren't real important either. I prefer to use the Log tuning and make adjustments from it. You can also workout the timing from there fairly easily. Autotune has no timing change ablility. The log will show if it is too much. With performance cams they are very inefficient below 2000 and some of the performance can be gained back by increasing timing in this area. Just don't attempt too much with stock cams or 255 as they will ping if adding much timing down low and above idle.
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 279
Likes: 11
From:
I just started playing with the autotune myself from fuelmoto's tune. On my 2012 ftllk I have only done 2 sessions so far with the wideband sensors. I have mine mounted on the handlebars, since I use the gauges, but in auto tune i can't seem to be able to see the screen, so i really don't know what screen i am looking at while going down the road.I don't think its sunlight glare as I can cover it with my hand and it makes no difference. The screen is just too dark and I have the brightness all the way up. I can see cell blinking whatever they may be.The gauges have been easy to see since I changed them to the white background. What page are you seeing percentage of change at or are you calculating this? I tried changing pages on mine while autotuning , but I can't read the darn thing , so i just leave it on the first page and watch the cells blink.
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Road Master
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 14
From: chatham il
Once you have been riding in auto tune and you exit the data log page the screen will tell you how many cells you hit and the largest percentage of change within those cells. I was told earlier I. This thread to try to get down to 4 or 5% and that should be pretty close. I assume this info is correct.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,442
Likes: 418
From: South Carolina
The most effective autotune I've found gives you a map, like a scattergram, from the upper left diagonally down to the lower right corresponding to throttle opening --> increased RPM...get as much tuning action as you can in the range you normally ride in and you'll be fine.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 270
Likes: 5
From: Massachusetts
Could be more off than the number you started with.
Road Captain
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
From: Illinois Corn Desert
Just ride it like you are out for a ride. Don't think about what the PV is recording etc. Do some jack-assing around and cruising and do some 2-up and on and on. Just ride it normally. Reflash with the new data. Reset learned fuel trims-Jamie's advise with each flash. Lastly, don't worry about how you ride-just ride it and don't think about whats being recorded. You can be too conscience of what you are doing and not actually recording the riding condition you would normally be active in. I did 28 AT runs, (yes, twenty-eight), including fuel AFR/VE changes for best economy and performance. I have the 255 cams installed and AC/Pipes, no cat-not a thread hijack statement about cams please. I get from 38-43 depending on my style and loading i.e. two-up, packed bags, throttle activity etc., etc. I have no problems and have sold the PV1 to a guy cheap who paid the $$ to get a license for his bike. If I ever do any more work I will just have my local do the SERT and dyno tune for me. Cheap plug here for Justin at Legacy HD in Effingham. This guy has his $hit down pat. I trust him implicitly. Now, just ride.
Mark
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