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OneDown, Safetyman, and 1plumr1 are correct...don't flippin' overthink this thing! When I set up my trailer, which used to be a double personal watercraft trailer, I simply put the chock as far forward as possible. If you're setting up a normal utility trailer, same thing...just put it as far forward as you can...now, I'm assuming that you're setting up a 8 to 10 foot trailer, if you're setting up a sixteen or more, well, hire an engineer, they know everything, just ask them! But for almost every situation I know, I'd just put it as far forward as possible...but this ain't rocket science, the only way you're gonna go bad is if the tongue is too light, that trailer's gonna be all over the place...if it's too heavy, the worst that could happen, I would think (that's a caveat for y'all flamers) would be the tow vehicle would squat more than it should...
put the rear tire over the trl axle or between if tandem axle. mark the floor where the chock goes and don't forget to look under the tlr floor for any obstructions before you drill.
I have a 6x12 single axle and this is what I did. Pulls fine.
Don't understand why people are all pissy this morning the OP just asked for info so he can get trailer loading smart that's all. OP I keep this in my saved bookmarks and refer to it when I buy a new trailer or if someone ask. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...ue-weight1.htm
It's drizzling here and I can't ride, already detailed the bike now I may go back out and put a coat of wax on her before supper while I listen to the game!
Big L
Good grief, like I said, a correctly built trailer already has proper distribution. So a evenly placed load will do fine. As soon as you throw in your tool box and a suitcase and head downhill your formula is blown.
BS ................. If you want a trailer that pulls nice and doesn't burden the tow vehicle you'll use the formula. I can just imagine your fuel consumption when you put 50% of the load on the tongue .........
The correct way is to weight the tongue unloaded and move the load around until you get 10-15% of the weight of the load added to the tongue. Can be done with bathroom scales. 800# bike means approximately 100# added to the tongue weight with the load on it. Were ever the front wheel lands mount the chock.
PERFECT, that's exactly what I was lookin for, just couldn't quite figure the best way to accomplish this. Seems easy enough to me, rather do it once + have it RIGHT. Thanx much!
The correct way is to weight the tongue unloaded and move the load around until you get 10-15% of the weight of the load added to the tongue. Can be done with bathroom scales. 800# bike means approximately 100# added to the tongue weight with the load on it. Were ever the front wheel lands mount the chock.
I run a 7x14 tandem cargo trailer and I mounted the chock all the way forward. Pulling it with 3/4 ton diesel I don't notice any difference pulling it with or without the bike inside. Whatever position you choose I recommend you positioning it somewhere that allows you to mount it to a cross member (usually 2' centers) on the frame or installing a backing plate. As others mentioned if you get tail heavy your trailer isn't going to tow worth a chit.
I mounted my wheel chocks to 24" x 24" sheet of 3/4" ply wood. That way I can move the position of the bikes where I want them. Also The floor of the trailer is open for other loads when I'm not hauling bikes. I just set them on the floor where I want the bike to sit drive the bike on and strap it down. Never had one of the chocks move.
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