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Does anybody know how much slack there is in the clutch cable and brake lines that will allow you to change handle bars for a little more pull back or rise. I would like to raise mine a bit for a more comfortable riding position and possibly a little more steering leverage. The other possibility would be to lower the seat by shaving off some foam, What do you guys think ? ? ?
I put WO 575 bars on my Tri, they are 2 up and 2 back and out 2 and 1 1/4 diameter. Love them, others on here have them and all praise. I had to put a 4 inch longer clutch cable to route it properly. I put all the wires inside, ALL the wires included heated gripes and reverse. You need to make the wires about 12 inches longer for ease of routing. The bars being wider make it steer easier, took a little time to get used too them but the width is a great thing. Thanks, Jerry
I put 6" pullback risers on my 11 FXDWG and had plenty of cable.
Your comparing an apple to a watermelon when you compare a Dyna Wide glide to a Touring framed Trike. I know when my dad did the Harley pull back bars he had to lengthen several things.
According to the catalogue it looks like there is one optional bar for the Tri Glide which is a 2" pull back 56176-08.Are these the bars that people are using and How much of the fairing has to be disassembled to change these bars ( big job ??? ) or not bad ??? The book also lists longer brake lines and clutch cables for these bars.
According to the catalogue it looks like there is one optional bar for the Tri Glide which is a 2" pull back 56176-08.Are these the bars that people are using and How much of the fairing has to be disassembled to change these bars ( big job ??? ) or not bad ??? The book also lists longer brake lines and clutch cables for these bars.
I had the dealer install mine. I did not want to fool around with the wires. I can't remember the part #. When I get back home and if no one has given you the part # I will look at my receipt and give you the part #.
I had everything removed from the trike in 1 1/2 hours, the only thing that took any time was putting the wires inside. If you are not going to do that, just change bars and clutch cable probably a 3 1/2 hour job. Front of fairing and switch panel on inner fairing, bar clamp and clutch cable are all that has to be removed. Move switch housings form one bar to another. Only trick is getting the ignition switch off, read or ask someone to show you the trick to get the switch off, nothing to it. Thanks, Jerry
I put WO 575 bars on my Tri, they are 2 up and 2 back and out 2 and 1 1/4 diameter. Love them, others on here have them and all praise. I had to put a 4 inch longer clutch cable to route it properly. I put all the wires inside, ALL the wires included heated gripes and reverse. You need to make the wires about 12 inches longer for ease of routing. The bars being wider make it steer easier, took a little time to get used too them but the width is a great thing. Thanks, Jerry
Exactly what he said! I didn't do heated grips. If I did it all over again, I'd get rid of that little green connector from the TBD. Made it harder to route all the cables in the bar.
When I looked in the catalogue at the bars right below they list the replacement cables ane brake lines that are required for the pull-back bars ;;;;; are these actually what you need. I hope the bars are the problem as I get a pain in my neck after not to many miles I think it's riding position, I feel like I am reaching for the bars a little to much. So I'm not quite sure what to do.
According to the catalogue it looks like there is one optional bar for the Tri Glide which is a 2" pull back 56176-08.Are these the bars that people are using and How much of the fairing has to be disassembled to change these bars ( big job ??? ) or not bad ??? The book also lists longer brake lines and clutch cables for these bars.
This is the same bar as recommended for the ElectraGlide series. I tried the WO 575's on my 09 ElectraGlide and did not like them for the reason explained in another post. They are two inches higher and 2" further back. HOWEVER, that extra two inches of width negated the rise and pullback for me and I was still leaning forward almost the same amount. Bought the 56176-08 and found they were much more comfortable for me. An added bonus was that the wires were much easier to route internally than the 575's. After looking at both, the hole and dimple in the bar where the wires go is much larger and smoother radiused on the Harley bar. After I put the new seat and backrest on my FLHXXX, I will see if I need a different bar. I still have the 575 in the garage so I could make the wire holes larger and try it as the extra width might make it easier to muscle the trike around tight corners. Between removing everything that has to be removed to get the old bar out and putting extensions on the wires and routing them internally it is a several hour job. How difficult it is depends on the skill level of the person changing the bars. Some find it easy, some insurmountable.
Last edited by pettifogger1; Jul 4, 2011 at 03:25 PM.
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