Clutch Pull Force
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 2
From: Gainesville, FL
Clutch Pull Force
I read that the force needed to pull in the clutch on trikes is about 16-17 pounds, is that correct?
If so, I have a few questions...
As I posted here previously, I was in a bad accident with the trike at the beginning of November. I broke my left wrist, severely damaged the ligaments/tendons and the entire front end of the trike was damaged.
I finally got the trike back and I have clearance to ride. I sat on the trike and tried pulling in the clutch. It was extremely difficult to do. I don't know if that is due to the weak hand or because the entire front end of the bike is new and the clutch is stiff due to a new rebuild. Does anyone know if brand new clutch levers/cables are stiff and tight? I don't remember it being that difficult when I first got the trike, but then again I also didn't have a severely messed up hand.
My physical therapist has me working on grip/pulling strength where I can grip/squeeze about 20-22 lbs. We're working up to 25 lbs. Either way, as of right now, I do not feel comfortable enough to ride since I can't pull in the clutch safely and quickly when needed.
I know I can get the clutch wiz, and have researched it and that it reduces clutch pull to about 10 lbs, correct? However, I'm confused as to how much difference that 6-7 lbs makes when pulling in the clutch and why I can squeeze a 20-22 lb spring grip but I can't squeeze my clutch lever that is supposedly 16-17 lbs. I know there's a huge difference being in physical therapy vs. on the bike, gripping the handlebars, etc., but still, a 5lb difference in what I can do on/off the bike seems a bit off to me. Then again, maybe it's normal? Maybe 5 lbs is a world of difference when it's dealing with hand muscles?
So, to summarize, is it possible that the clutch needs adjusting by the dealer to make it a bit lighter or should I just go with the clutch wiz?
If so, I have a few questions...
As I posted here previously, I was in a bad accident with the trike at the beginning of November. I broke my left wrist, severely damaged the ligaments/tendons and the entire front end of the trike was damaged.
I finally got the trike back and I have clearance to ride. I sat on the trike and tried pulling in the clutch. It was extremely difficult to do. I don't know if that is due to the weak hand or because the entire front end of the bike is new and the clutch is stiff due to a new rebuild. Does anyone know if brand new clutch levers/cables are stiff and tight? I don't remember it being that difficult when I first got the trike, but then again I also didn't have a severely messed up hand.
My physical therapist has me working on grip/pulling strength where I can grip/squeeze about 20-22 lbs. We're working up to 25 lbs. Either way, as of right now, I do not feel comfortable enough to ride since I can't pull in the clutch safely and quickly when needed.
I know I can get the clutch wiz, and have researched it and that it reduces clutch pull to about 10 lbs, correct? However, I'm confused as to how much difference that 6-7 lbs makes when pulling in the clutch and why I can squeeze a 20-22 lb spring grip but I can't squeeze my clutch lever that is supposedly 16-17 lbs. I know there's a huge difference being in physical therapy vs. on the bike, gripping the handlebars, etc., but still, a 5lb difference in what I can do on/off the bike seems a bit off to me. Then again, maybe it's normal? Maybe 5 lbs is a world of difference when it's dealing with hand muscles?
So, to summarize, is it possible that the clutch needs adjusting by the dealer to make it a bit lighter or should I just go with the clutch wiz?
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,926
Likes: 138
From: NE Ohio
I read that the force needed to pull in the clutch on trikes is about 16-17 pounds, is that correct?
If so, I have a few questions...
As I posted here previously, I was in a bad accident with the trike at the beginning of November. I broke my left wrist, severely damaged the ligaments/tendons and the entire front end of the trike was damaged.
I finally got the trike back and I have clearance to ride. I sat on the trike and tried pulling in the clutch. It was extremely difficult to do. I don't know if that is due to the weak hand or because the entire front end of the bike is new and the clutch is stiff due to a new rebuild. Does anyone know if brand new clutch levers/cables are stiff and tight? I don't remember it being that difficult when I first got the trike, but then again I also didn't have a severely messed up hand.
My physical therapist has me working on grip/pulling strength where I can grip/squeeze about 20-22 lbs. We're working up to 25 lbs. Either way, as of right now, I do not feel comfortable enough to ride since I can't pull in the clutch safely and quickly when needed.
I know I can get the clutch wiz, and have researched it and that it reduces clutch pull to about 10 lbs, correct? However, I'm confused as to how much difference that 6-7 lbs makes when pulling in the clutch and why I can squeeze a 20-22 lb spring grip but I can't squeeze my clutch lever that is supposedly 16-17 lbs. I know there's a huge difference being in physical therapy vs. on the bike, gripping the handlebars, etc., but still, a 5lb difference in what I can do on/off the bike seems a bit off to me. Then again, maybe it's normal? Maybe 5 lbs is a world of difference when it's dealing with hand muscles?
So, to summarize, is it possible that the clutch needs adjusting by the dealer to make it a bit lighter or should I just go with the clutch wiz?
If so, I have a few questions...
As I posted here previously, I was in a bad accident with the trike at the beginning of November. I broke my left wrist, severely damaged the ligaments/tendons and the entire front end of the trike was damaged.
I finally got the trike back and I have clearance to ride. I sat on the trike and tried pulling in the clutch. It was extremely difficult to do. I don't know if that is due to the weak hand or because the entire front end of the bike is new and the clutch is stiff due to a new rebuild. Does anyone know if brand new clutch levers/cables are stiff and tight? I don't remember it being that difficult when I first got the trike, but then again I also didn't have a severely messed up hand.
My physical therapist has me working on grip/pulling strength where I can grip/squeeze about 20-22 lbs. We're working up to 25 lbs. Either way, as of right now, I do not feel comfortable enough to ride since I can't pull in the clutch safely and quickly when needed.
I know I can get the clutch wiz, and have researched it and that it reduces clutch pull to about 10 lbs, correct? However, I'm confused as to how much difference that 6-7 lbs makes when pulling in the clutch and why I can squeeze a 20-22 lb spring grip but I can't squeeze my clutch lever that is supposedly 16-17 lbs. I know there's a huge difference being in physical therapy vs. on the bike, gripping the handlebars, etc., but still, a 5lb difference in what I can do on/off the bike seems a bit off to me. Then again, maybe it's normal? Maybe 5 lbs is a world of difference when it's dealing with hand muscles?
So, to summarize, is it possible that the clutch needs adjusting by the dealer to make it a bit lighter or should I just go with the clutch wiz?
Another consideration is how much you have to open your hand to get a hold of the clutch lever and pull vs the grip exercise your therapist has you doing.
In your case if you haven't already I would talk with your therapist and see if they can help get you back where you were.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 6
From: Northern Michigan
Adjusting the clutch won't decrease the pull weight, sometimes lubricating the clutch cable will help a little bit. I can say the difference between the stock set up and the clutch wiz is pretty noticeable. I have problems with both my hands nerves, I can pull a straight up Screamin Eagle spring and even a 480 lb AIM spring with no easy pull gadgets once or twice, the stop and go just flat kills me so clutch Wiz is the ticket for me.
Another consideration is how much you have to open your hand to get a hold of the clutch lever and pull vs the grip exercise your therapist has you doing.
In your case if you haven't already I would talk with your therapist and see if they can help get you back where you were.
Another consideration is how much you have to open your hand to get a hold of the clutch lever and pull vs the grip exercise your therapist has you doing.
In your case if you haven't already I would talk with your therapist and see if they can help get you back where you were.
Besides the clutchwiz iz gonna make it easier no mater what else you do.My wife wouldnt be able to ride much without it.
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 511
Likes: 14
I did not measure the force to pull in the clutch but I did measure the force to hold in the clutch. Wife has a bad wrist from a few years back. She was having trouble holding the clutch at stop lights ect. So with a stock spring in her 2010 tri glide it was over 8 lbs to hold the clutch. This was measured with a Lyman digital trigger pull scale. After the Clutch Wiz it was just over 5 lb force needed to hold the clutch in. Big improvement and she is very happy.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,431
Likes: 38
From: Caldwell, Idaho
I was t-boned on my '06 Ultra-Classic in September 2007. Severely injured my left wrist...held together w/pins and screws. Still can't close my fingers. Was in physical therapy for 7 months. Did the "grasp meter" in April '08 for 15 lbs and doctor signed me off to ride! I used cramp busters to give my left wrist/fingers a rest. Rode to Northern Idaho and back in July 2007 after only a month back in the saddle....used a elastic hand wrap for long time. Take 2 Aleve and head out on a ride now. Sounds like you need a little nmre physical therapy on your injured wrist. Had the ClutchWiz installed on the 2013 and hope to make a maiden ride this coming Saturday. Good luck.
Club Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,792
Likes: 6
From: North East Ohio
I was t-boned on my '06 Ultra-Classic in September 2007. Severely injured my left wrist...held together w/pins and screws. Still can't close my fingers. Was in physical therapy for 7 months. Did the "grasp meter" in April '08 for 15 lbs and doctor signed me off to ride! I used cramp busters to give my left wrist/fingers a rest. Rode to Northern Idaho and back in July 2007 after only a month back in the saddle....used a elastic hand wrap for long time. Take 2 Aleve and head out on a ride now. Sounds like you need a little nmre physical therapy on your injured wrist. Had the ClutchWiz installed on the 2013 and hope to make a maiden ride this coming Saturday. Good luck.
Mike
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Club Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 10,393
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From: N. Atlanta Burbs
What's weird about the clutch pull is that the pull starts out easy and gets harder as you pull. That's due to the circle ramp on the right side tranny cable connection to the rod that pushes against the clutch spring. As you pull the cable, the cable turns a round piece of metal with three ball bearings. These bearings are in a cup or ramp. As the circle turns (no pun intended) the "ramp" pushes against the clutch rod making it harder to pull the clutch lever.
Confused yet?
The hardest point of the clutch lever pull is about 1" from the grip. That's where I take all of my digital measurements. When you pull to the grip the poundage falls off a little. I call that "holding strength" and it is about 2/3 of the highest measured pull on the clutch lever.
A stock TG has about 16 to 18 pounds of pull just about an inch from the grip.
The ClutchWIZ will decrease this pull to about 10 pounds on average.
The holding strength is about 8 pounds with the CW.
All the new clutch cables come with interior coated metal cables now. Lubricating the cable really won't do a lot of good unless it is years old. HD did this a year or two back to reduce the lubrication schedule and to help with the clutch pull and prevent accidental binding.
Holding a clutch in is like a weight lifter doing rep after rep... you can do only so many reps until you just give out. This is what is it like riding in traffic. Reducing the weight lifted means you can do more reps.
There are other devices that can be added with the CW to help remove lever pull resistance... an aftermarket ramp and a fashionable easy-pull clutch lever.
Example: 2012 CVO Street Glide with a 480 pound spring, Barnett +1 clutch pack was about 21 pounds. With a CW and aftermarket ramp and easy-pull lever the pull is now just over 9 pounds. Holding strength is just over 7.
Confused yet?
The hardest point of the clutch lever pull is about 1" from the grip. That's where I take all of my digital measurements. When you pull to the grip the poundage falls off a little. I call that "holding strength" and it is about 2/3 of the highest measured pull on the clutch lever.
A stock TG has about 16 to 18 pounds of pull just about an inch from the grip.
The ClutchWIZ will decrease this pull to about 10 pounds on average.
The holding strength is about 8 pounds with the CW.
All the new clutch cables come with interior coated metal cables now. Lubricating the cable really won't do a lot of good unless it is years old. HD did this a year or two back to reduce the lubrication schedule and to help with the clutch pull and prevent accidental binding.
Holding a clutch in is like a weight lifter doing rep after rep... you can do only so many reps until you just give out. This is what is it like riding in traffic. Reducing the weight lifted means you can do more reps.
There are other devices that can be added with the CW to help remove lever pull resistance... an aftermarket ramp and a fashionable easy-pull clutch lever.
Example: 2012 CVO Street Glide with a 480 pound spring, Barnett +1 clutch pack was about 21 pounds. With a CW and aftermarket ramp and easy-pull lever the pull is now just over 9 pounds. Holding strength is just over 7.
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Could be the cable too. When I changed my bars, I installed a new cable. Pull was not measured, but it seemed more than twice as hard to pull in. Changed to another new cable and pull was back to normal.
Since you are not sure if it is your wrist being weaker or not, go to a dealership and check out the clutch pull on a few of the new bikes....then you will know if it is your wrist, or if the new cable they installed is making the pull more difficult.
Glad to see you got it fixed and are back in the wind!
Since you are not sure if it is your wrist being weaker or not, go to a dealership and check out the clutch pull on a few of the new bikes....then you will know if it is your wrist, or if the new cable they installed is making the pull more difficult.
Glad to see you got it fixed and are back in the wind!
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 19
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From: California
Use the Easy Pull Clutch
If you are worried about the tough clutch pull on your sportster, I suggest the Easy Pull Clutch that can be found on ebay, sold by a Philip Portillo from Florida. The product is a piece that is attached to the existing clutch ramp inside the primary cover and increased the lever arm length. I recently installed the product and it significantly decreased the pull necessary to operate the clutch. The advertised advantage is 40% decrease in force necessary to pull the clutch. The Easy Pull costs $39 and is easily installed. I have posted the method by which I installed mine on this forum after I noticed some issues with my initial installation. If you have any questions with your install, I can help you with it.
edit: Oops, just noticed you're not running a Sportster... I'm not sure if the Easy Pull is compatible with a Tri-Glide. There are other similar products also on the market for clutch assist, such as AMP Research EZ-Pull, etc...
edit: Oops, just noticed you're not running a Sportster... I'm not sure if the Easy Pull is compatible with a Tri-Glide. There are other similar products also on the market for clutch assist, such as AMP Research EZ-Pull, etc...
Last edited by Ocgreenmachine; Feb 1, 2013 at 11:32 AM.