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During the final torqueing sequence on the last head bolt and only the last head bolt I noticed a mushy feeling. It looks like I'm having a bounce back issue where after I reach the final torque value and start to release tension that the head stud will bounce back just a couple degrees. I'm still hitting the torque value, and I'm sure the few degrees are worth some sort of torque value but is it really enough to worry about? I did just as the manual said and applied some lube to the stud bolts and the underside of the head bolt. This is occurring on the rear cylinder on the front right stud, I've verified I'm using the correct head stud for the location.
Did you lube the threads on the stud, threads in the nut and the flange area of the nut? That is usually caused by dry threads. I use ARP lube on that stuff, works well!
Yes, the stud threads, head bolt threads and head bolt shoulder were all lubricated as best as I could. I didn't have great access to the studs as I only had the head off and didn't want to lift the jugs.
You could/should lube the bolt threads, run em down all the way, back them out and add a bit more for final TQ sequence. I’d also recommend a small 1/2” extension for your set up, to me the wrench head is too close or contacting the head casting. Plenty of room for a 1/2” extension
Definitely used an extension, no room for my torque wrench on the left side otherwise. As far as lube the rear cylinder got 20w oil, not the best but it's what I have and anything purpose made would have to be ordered as I live in a small town. For the front cylinder I used Permatex Ultraslick I had from my cam swap and I got the same result. It appears that on both cylinders the last bolt in the torque sequence is having "bounce back" on the head stud. Is it possible the torque sequence I'm using is the issue? I'm going by the instructions that
came with my James head gasket kit.
Well this sucks, looks like I probably ought to order another set of head gaskets and some fastener lube now. While I have it back apart should I consider changing cylinder studs to Harleys 16505-01? I know there's probably better studs out there but the Harley kit is awfully affordable and my CR is only 9.6. The next time this goes back together will be the 4th time these studs have been torqued down, 5 if you include the assembly at Harley, at least to my knowledge.
Last edited by Turbacide; Feb 26, 2022 at 10:09 AM.
From my recent experience, check that your stud didn't back out during disassembly. ARP torque lube isn't terribly expensive and nor are the gaskets needed. Missing a critical step could be financially painful.
The procedure is in the FSM. If you don't have one, I can type up the process for you.
Trust me, its a quick job and it just may save you some money and time in the very near future.
Before pulling apart I would loosen just that cylinder head and re torque but change sequence and end with the other inside bolt. Just to see if that current stud/bolt acts same finishing third not last.
Before pulling apart I would loosen just that cylinder head and re torque but change sequence and end with the other inside bolt. Just to see if that current stud/bolt acts same finishing third not last.
I actually just tried that, now I have two "bouncing" head studs on the same cylinder. I'm gonna get me some of that fancy ARP lube everyone raves about and see if that changes anything. If not I'm guessing I'll have to changes studs.
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Head stud "Bounce" on Final Torque
