I have a 2006 Street Glide, TC88, bought it used around two years ago with unknown exact mileage and relatively unknown history. I wasn't sure if the cam chain tensioners were ever upgraded, but after an oil change I cut the filter open and found no plastic bits so I assumed all was OK for now, with the plan of eventually removing the cam cover and inspecting them.

I'd been riding it nearly every day without issue until a few weeks ago when I had the oil pressure light flickering while stopped at idle when I was pulling into the lot at work. Parked at work, bike cooled off, left to go home and started up just fine no oil light flickering. Then a minute later at a red light it just stalled and wouldn't restart. I pushed it to the side of the road, scanned for codes and got a crank sensor error so I had it towed home.

Upon inspection I found my crank sensor physically damaged:

I drained the oil and didn't find any metallic glitter or other bits of metal, though the magnetic drain plug had some metallic 'goo' stuck to it, wiped it off and it didn't have any big chunks or grit, just powder-like metal. I pulled the plug under the crankcase and a banged up needle bearing roller dropped out:


So now I'm pulling the cams to inspect the inner cam bearings and assess the damage. I'm aware of the bearing failure on these engines, looks like yet another victim. So far I just got the cam cover off:


There was no metal in the cam chest area, and the oil that drained out of there was also clean. I was surprised to learn that my tensioner shoes were already replaced at some point so that's a good sign that there was at least some care by the previous owner, they're in good shape too with virtually no wear. However given that I have this apart I'll likely upgrade to the SE cam plate with hydraulic tensioners, but that depends on what else I find. Still need to remove rockers and pushrods to remove the cams, I have no interest in adjustable pushrods and want to inspect my breathers anyway.

I know I may end up having to split the cases to clean up any debris... but just wondering if anyone has ever tried flushing the crankcase with diesel/kerosene and fishing with a magnet. Like I said I didn't have any noise or anything when the crank sensor failed from that roller hitting it. Usually when the cam bearings completely get destroyed they make noises. Oil pan is coming off for cleaning or replacement too, which isn't a fun job on this bike.

 

I wonder if something got in the pressure relief on the cam plate causing pressure to drop?

There used to be lots discussions on this years ago. Probably debated. I would Google this and look at old threads.

What caused cpk to fail is interesting question.

 

I've been reading tons of old info about this issue.

My crank sensor was damaged from physical impact, the indentation matches the size of the roller that fell out the crankcase drain hole. Which right now I'm just assuming is from an inner cam bearing, not sure what else this could have come from.

If I'm reading the manual correctly, the oil from the crankcase goes to the pump inlet, and then goes to the oil filter. Can't see it from that photo I posted but a piece of thin plastic from the face of the crank sensor got chipped off. Maybe that plus the roller bearing were blocking the port from the crankcase over to the oil pump inlet?

I'll find out more once I get the cam plate off.

 

This will sound crazy and laughed at. You already got top end off. It's easy to pull engine. Flush it upside down. Splitting case and sealing isn't awful either.

There is also a plug on bottom of engine if you want to try flushing. Be nice to see inside though

 

You have found debris in the oil...

The crankcases should be split; everything needs to be inspected.

 

Yep, otherwise you're just chasing your tail for further damage. Also remove and clean inside oil tank and hoses. If you have an oil cooler, that too. They are are hard to clean completely. i would toss old one and replace with new.

 

Before splitting the cases take a crank runout reading on both shafts if you can, at minimum the pinion shaft. You will want to know this before rebuilding the motor. Although I would rebuild or replace the crank. It may also have metal in the lower rod bearings.

 

Need to make sure that the inner bearing hole ain't roached.. I'll bet the cylinders suffered a bit also, possibly the crank. Don't listen to Flounders.. The guy has no clue.

 

Yes that's what I plan to do. Primary is coming off anyway since I need to replace a leaky shift shaft seal, so it'll be easy to measure runout on both shafts.


I'll get there soon enough, good news is I have another motorcycle to ride while I do all this work, although it doesn't have saddle bags which I've learned to love.

 

I would split if me. As I wrote it's not that hard.

But there was lots of debates about flushing. How they turned out I don't remember