Rear Brake Light Switch
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Joined: Apr 2007
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Rear Brake Light Switch
Just in case this saves some time and dealer costs for people: 2 years ago my rear brake light switch stopped working. On the VRSCF it is mounted near the front cylinder exhaust and gets hot. I replaced it with an AC Delco heavy duty switch. 2 years later the problem was back, I first suspected the switch had failed again, power was getting to the switch but the switch wasn't working when I pressed the pedal. However at last year's service the garage replaced the brake fluid, there is a process to follow to bleed the ABS, I wondered if there might be air in the switch line. I successfully bled the switch line and fixed the brake light problem by:
1.Topping up the rear brake fluid reservoir (inside the right side radiator shroud, comes off with one screw).
2. Removing the right side air box over panel.
3. Placed a rag on top of the radiator centre panel to catch bled fluid.
4. Depressed take pedal and simultaneously slightly loosened the nearest banjo union bolt to the switch with a 12mm spanner until fluid came out, then tightened banjo and released the pedal.
5. Repeated this 5x and the switch started to work again.
2 years ago Harley dealers quoted around Ł200 to replace the switch due to the difficult access. With care, needle nose pliers to remove the electrical connections and a few spanners I got the job done in around 45 minutes with a Ł10 automotive switch.
1.Topping up the rear brake fluid reservoir (inside the right side radiator shroud, comes off with one screw).
2. Removing the right side air box over panel.
3. Placed a rag on top of the radiator centre panel to catch bled fluid.
4. Depressed take pedal and simultaneously slightly loosened the nearest banjo union bolt to the switch with a 12mm spanner until fluid came out, then tightened banjo and released the pedal.
5. Repeated this 5x and the switch started to work again.
2 years ago Harley dealers quoted around Ł200 to replace the switch due to the difficult access. With care, needle nose pliers to remove the electrical connections and a few spanners I got the job done in around 45 minutes with a Ł10 automotive switch.
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