Wheel bearing
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
Remember torque is all relative. The temp you are working at can change things with aluminum wheels. And the driven part is the outside race but the working part is the inner race. Have to work with these requirments.
I just took it down a little at a time when it got even with the wheel side and felt the spacer. When there was no spacer wiggle and in fact the spacer would turn the other bearing but easy turning,---That was it.
Once you drive the bearing in too far you can't really pull it back without damage even if you can't see the damage.
When the Axle is tightened the inner races are tighten harder and the slight movement is there.
I know it all sounds all **** but there is really no other way. The values you are looking for are all in your fingers really.
Its worth your life or, at least sometime, a big hit to the wallet.
.
I just took it down a little at a time when it got even with the wheel side and felt the spacer. When there was no spacer wiggle and in fact the spacer would turn the other bearing but easy turning,---That was it.
Once you drive the bearing in too far you can't really pull it back without damage even if you can't see the damage.
When the Axle is tightened the inner races are tighten harder and the slight movement is there.
I know it all sounds all **** but there is really no other way. The values you are looking for are all in your fingers really.
Its worth your life or, at least sometime, a big hit to the wallet.
.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Dec 11, 2010 at 08:54 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 23
From: Summit, Mississippi
Isn't it just normal for our beloved MOCO to have a specified tolerance of "just touching". Just touching could mean just about anything among individuals making the judgment.
Last edited by 0734; Dec 11, 2010 at 04:51 PM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
Its a bearing thing.
They are all like this. One way or another.
The whole point to all this, is to think about what what you are really doing. Trying to read a torque wrench? Or set bearings.
Engineers have to deal with tolarances ranges and somewhere there is a list of exactly the base conditions. Temp,etc. But there is a real world we all live in so you have to think about what is going on and why we do what we do.
They are all like this. One way or another.
The whole point to all this, is to think about what what you are really doing. Trying to read a torque wrench? Or set bearings.
Engineers have to deal with tolarances ranges and somewhere there is a list of exactly the base conditions. Temp,etc. But there is a real world we all live in so you have to think about what is going on and why we do what we do.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Dec 13, 2010 at 07:54 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,476
Likes: 23
From: Summit, Mississippi
My trucks, cars, tractors, lawn mowers and trailers rarely ever seem to have bearing issues.The MOCO seems to always have bearing issues...as in both inner and outer cam bearings and now wheel bearings.
Does anybody know why they left the torrington/timken style and went with the current bearing system? Was it to reduce bearing service intervals, or a cost thing? Like.....it takes less than 30-minutes to re-pack a set of tapered bearings.
Does anybody know why they left the torrington/timken style and went with the current bearing system? Was it to reduce bearing service intervals, or a cost thing? Like.....it takes less than 30-minutes to re-pack a set of tapered bearings.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,360
Likes: 453
From: Davie, FL
Also found why some may fail.
Ones I took out of my front wheel were very hard to turn, why I started to worry.
When I took them out they were really OK. Had grease and, once I got the first little pull on one, they both turned fine.
With HD instructions you put the Primary, left side, bearing in first and bottom it out on the inner ledge. Then the spacer goes in.
The spacer, by the way is very stout, and nobody is going to crush it, period.
Then install the other bearing till the inner race touches the spacer.
KEY WORDS. --TOUCHES
Now the rub.
If you go past that point by continuning to drive (force ) the bearing down past that point you force the INNER races HARD against the OUTER races. You are driving the outer race and at the same time the spacer is against the inner race ----***** are tight in the bearings.
This is a very tiny movement
There is nothing to stop you from doing this, no lip- ledge- here.
Same as leaving a tappered bearing tight, everybody knows that is a no-no.
Got to take a little time at this last point and double,tripple, check the last few bits of movement and get the bearing set but still leave clearance to move.
These bearings are deep grove, single row, and designed to take some side load, and they need to be able to move in their groves as designed.
Or the bearing will have a much shorter life.
Mine from the Factory were set too tight. This is very easy to do if you don't take care.
Ones I took out of my front wheel were very hard to turn, why I started to worry.
When I took them out they were really OK. Had grease and, once I got the first little pull on one, they both turned fine.
With HD instructions you put the Primary, left side, bearing in first and bottom it out on the inner ledge. Then the spacer goes in.
The spacer, by the way is very stout, and nobody is going to crush it, period.
Then install the other bearing till the inner race touches the spacer.
KEY WORDS. --TOUCHES
Now the rub.
If you go past that point by continuning to drive (force ) the bearing down past that point you force the INNER races HARD against the OUTER races. You are driving the outer race and at the same time the spacer is against the inner race ----***** are tight in the bearings.
This is a very tiny movement
There is nothing to stop you from doing this, no lip- ledge- here.
Same as leaving a tappered bearing tight, everybody knows that is a no-no.
Got to take a little time at this last point and double,tripple, check the last few bits of movement and get the bearing set but still leave clearance to move.
These bearings are deep grove, single row, and designed to take some side load, and they need to be able to move in their groves as designed.
Or the bearing will have a much shorter life.
Mine from the Factory were set too tight. This is very easy to do if you don't take care.
There is a big difference in bearings. They may look the same but it is the tolerances they are made for. That includes the exact diameter of the ball as well as the roundness. There are two bearing makers in China that produce excellent industrial bearings. Look at the specifications before you buy. Just because it says made in the USA does not mean they are the right bearings for you.
Last edited by FastHarley; Dec 28, 2010 at 12:58 PM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
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I'm sure the Chinise can make good bearings, why not?
But even HD bearings don't say one thing on them but part number and branded with a HD sign, on the rubber seal.
Who makes them? Who knows?
And today bearings are a big counterfited business.
If I buy a little old bearing that cost 15 dollors and my life might depent on, from a Industrial supply business down the street, that is identified correctly from a name brand.
Or
Buy a pak of, "8 for 18 bucks", that say the same each from a online source.
But even HD bearings don't say one thing on them but part number and branded with a HD sign, on the rubber seal.
Who makes them? Who knows?
And today bearings are a big counterfited business.
If I buy a little old bearing that cost 15 dollors and my life might depent on, from a Industrial supply business down the street, that is identified correctly from a name brand.
Or
Buy a pak of, "8 for 18 bucks", that say the same each from a online source.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
From: winter spring,fl
My front bearing wore out at 21500 miles. They had replaced it around 6000 miles when they messed up putting on a 408 tire on it. Had it in for 20K check up they said everything was good. At 21500 I had a bad vibration especially in curves. Took it in they test road it said neck bearing? When they looked at it in the shop said it needed retorqueing? Then they called me back to show me the front bearings where bad. Front tire you could move almost 2"s from side to side? They replaced them under warrenty. When I asked about them going that bad in 1500 miles they said it could happen? They did not like me asking how they could go that bad in that short of miles sence the check up. I know 1 guy on here says he replaces his every time he changes tires. I think I am going to start doing that. Will most bearing places know what I am talking about for ABS bearings? Sorry for the long post.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Vermont
my front bearing wore out at 21500 miles. They had replaced it around 6000 miles when they messed up putting on a 408 tire on it. Had it in for 20k check up they said everything was good. At 21500 i had a bad vibration especially in curves. Took it in they test road it said neck bearing? When they looked at it in the shop said it needed retorqueing? Then they called me back to show me the front bearings where bad. Front tire you could move almost 2"s from side to side? They replaced them under warrenty. When i asked about them going that bad in 1500 miles they said it could happen? They did not like me asking how they could go that bad in that short of miles sence the check up. I know 1 guy on here says he replaces his every time he changes tires. I think i am going to start doing that. Will most bearing places know what i am talking about for abs bearings? Sorry for the long post.
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