Wheel bearing
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
Wheel bearing
I posted this is the engine section because I am old and slow I guess.
Have heard stories about the HD wheel bearing for late modles. Have my wheels off to change tires and am worried about the front bearings, very hard to turn.
HD-9276 which for some reason I had though was double row.
But I think may be single row.
Size is 25ID, 52 OD, 15W
SKF makes a single row, 6205 2RSH, which is direct replacememt, as far as size goes.
All -double row- sizes are 18mm wide.
Was I wrong to think this HD bearing was double row?
I like to go with the best available and like USA, or German, or Swedish for bearings.
Would not be surprised HD bearings are China.
Looking for guidence here please.
Have heard stories about the HD wheel bearing for late modles. Have my wheels off to change tires and am worried about the front bearings, very hard to turn.
HD-9276 which for some reason I had though was double row.
But I think may be single row.
Size is 25ID, 52 OD, 15W
SKF makes a single row, 6205 2RSH, which is direct replacememt, as far as size goes.
All -double row- sizes are 18mm wide.
Was I wrong to think this HD bearing was double row?
I like to go with the best available and like USA, or German, or Swedish for bearings.
Would not be surprised HD bearings are China.
Looking for guidence here please.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Dec 9, 2010 at 09:15 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 3
From: Sevierville, TN
If you are worried that the bearings are dragging or catching go ahead and change them to be on the safe side. I changed mine when I put on new rims due to one of the bearings when rotated had a little catch in it. Better be safe than sorry.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
No kidding. What I think also.
the things sell for anywhere from 4.00 to about 17 apiece. I figure the low ball price are knockoffs.
This SKF 6205 2rsh from Sweden seems about right at any price.
Actually listed as a trailer bearing some places.
the things sell for anywhere from 4.00 to about 17 apiece. I figure the low ball price are knockoffs.
This SKF 6205 2rsh from Sweden seems about right at any price.
Actually listed as a trailer bearing some places.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
From: Yakima WA
Wait till you see the dealers price on them. Bearings for my 2006 are over $25 each and no bearing house substitute available due to odd sizing (one inch axle, metric OD)
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 28,552
Likes: 3,954
From: Vermont
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 157
From: Banning, CA
Nachi Wheel Bearings
must be chinese - while a stainless model is $19.95. Hmmmmmmmmmmm. This place
also sells Nachi (japanese) premium bearings as used by PM at less than half price -
$7.19 - kit 9706. PM wheels use three on their rear wheels - two stacked on the pulley
side - for longer wear. I replaced mine at 40K just because - didn't need it but I
have a friend that had a stock rear failure that almost took he and his wife down.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
Found out a lot about these bearings.
Went to a local bearing supply business around here. SE Texas full fo them because of the huge petrochemical and refinery industrys.
The SKF 62052RS is rated for C3 clearance and EM-Electric Motor.
The bearings I got were, Made in the USA, and lettered with the nomenclature on the steel edge one side, like its suppose to be. these are the real thing.
Online they have these so called same bearings for down to, 8 for 17.00 bucks, in a shrink pack. Good grife Charley Brown.
I'm not going to stake my life on 2-4 dollor bearings.
Paid 15.00 apeace. I'll do that.
Went to a local bearing supply business around here. SE Texas full fo them because of the huge petrochemical and refinery industrys.
The SKF 62052RS is rated for C3 clearance and EM-Electric Motor.
The bearings I got were, Made in the USA, and lettered with the nomenclature on the steel edge one side, like its suppose to be. these are the real thing.
Online they have these so called same bearings for down to, 8 for 17.00 bucks, in a shrink pack. Good grife Charley Brown.
I'm not going to stake my life on 2-4 dollor bearings.
Paid 15.00 apeace. I'll do that.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Dec 10, 2010 at 08:30 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,984
Likes: 7
Also found why some may fail.
Ones I took out of my front wheel were very hard to turn, why I started to worry.
When I took them out they were really OK. Had grease and, once I got the first little pull on one, they both turned fine.
With HD instructions you put the Primary, left side, bearing in first and bottom it out on the inner ledge. Then the spacer goes in.
The spacer, by the way is very stout, and nobody is going to crush it, period.
Then install the other bearing till the inner race touches the spacer.
KEY WORDS. --TOUCHES
Now the rub.
If you go past that point by continuning to drive (force ) the bearing down past that point you force the INNER races HARD against the OUTER races. You are driving the outer race and at the same time the spacer is against the inner race ----***** are tight in the bearings.
This is a very tiny movement
There is nothing to stop you from doing this, no lip- ledge- here.
Same as leaving a tappered bearing tight, everybody knows that is a no-no.
Got to take a little time at this last point and double,tripple, check the last few bits of movement and get the bearing set but still leave clearance to move.
These bearings are deep grove, single row, and designed to take some side load, and they need to be able to move in their groves as designed.
Or the bearing will have a much shorter life.
Mine from the Factory were set too tight. This is very easy to do if you don't take care.
Ones I took out of my front wheel were very hard to turn, why I started to worry.
When I took them out they were really OK. Had grease and, once I got the first little pull on one, they both turned fine.
With HD instructions you put the Primary, left side, bearing in first and bottom it out on the inner ledge. Then the spacer goes in.
The spacer, by the way is very stout, and nobody is going to crush it, period.
Then install the other bearing till the inner race touches the spacer.
KEY WORDS. --TOUCHES
Now the rub.
If you go past that point by continuning to drive (force ) the bearing down past that point you force the INNER races HARD against the OUTER races. You are driving the outer race and at the same time the spacer is against the inner race ----***** are tight in the bearings.
This is a very tiny movement
There is nothing to stop you from doing this, no lip- ledge- here.
Same as leaving a tappered bearing tight, everybody knows that is a no-no.
Got to take a little time at this last point and double,tripple, check the last few bits of movement and get the bearing set but still leave clearance to move.
These bearings are deep grove, single row, and designed to take some side load, and they need to be able to move in their groves as designed.
Or the bearing will have a much shorter life.
Mine from the Factory were set too tight. This is very easy to do if you don't take care.
Last edited by Old Gunny; Dec 10, 2010 at 08:31 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,529
Likes: 8
From: Central Fl.
Here in Orlando we have a place called Miller Bearing. They have all kinds of bearings and they're the good stuff too. Even when putting a late model wheel on an earlier axle they have all the sizes.
Road Master
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 0
From: Yakima WA
Also found why some may fail.
Ones I took out of my front wheel were very hard to turn, why I started to worry.
When I took them out they were really OK. Had grease and, once I got the first little pull on one, they both turned fine.
With HD instructions you put the Primary, left side, bearing in first and bottom it out on the inner ledge. Then the spacer goes in.
The spacer, by the way is very stout, and nobody is going to crush it, period.
Then install the other bearing till the inner race touches the spacer.
KEY WORDS. --TOUCHES
Now the rub.
If you go past that point by continuning to drive (force ) the bearing down past that point you force the INNER races HARD against the OUTER races. You are driving the outer race and at the same time the spacer is against the inner race ----***** are tight in the bearings.
This is a very tiny movement
There is nothing to stop you from doing this, no lip- ledge- here.
Same as leaving a tappered bearing tight, everybody knows that is a no-no.
Got to take a little time at this last point and double,tripple, check the last few bits of movement and get the bearing set but still leave clearance to move.
These bearings are deep grove, single row, and designed to take some side load, and they need to be able to move in their groves as designed.
Or the bearing will have a much shorter life.
Mine from the Factory were set too tight. This is very easy to do if you don't take care.
Ones I took out of my front wheel were very hard to turn, why I started to worry.
When I took them out they were really OK. Had grease and, once I got the first little pull on one, they both turned fine.
With HD instructions you put the Primary, left side, bearing in first and bottom it out on the inner ledge. Then the spacer goes in.
The spacer, by the way is very stout, and nobody is going to crush it, period.
Then install the other bearing till the inner race touches the spacer.
KEY WORDS. --TOUCHES
Now the rub.
If you go past that point by continuning to drive (force ) the bearing down past that point you force the INNER races HARD against the OUTER races. You are driving the outer race and at the same time the spacer is against the inner race ----***** are tight in the bearings.
This is a very tiny movement
There is nothing to stop you from doing this, no lip- ledge- here.
Same as leaving a tappered bearing tight, everybody knows that is a no-no.
Got to take a little time at this last point and double,tripple, check the last few bits of movement and get the bearing set but still leave clearance to move.
These bearings are deep grove, single row, and designed to take some side load, and they need to be able to move in their groves as designed.
Or the bearing will have a much shorter life.
Mine from the Factory were set too tight. This is very easy to do if you don't take care.
As Old Gunny points out one of the elements of the installation is setting the bearing "depth". One trick suggested in the George's tool instructions is to torque the second bearing down, never exceeding the posted torque that the front axle is to be torqued to during install. Before I bought the tool I read a lot of guys talking about driving them in or using a generic installer but never trusted the idea. Since I have two bikes that are in the generation known to experience bearing problems, I anticipate checking / changing the bearings at tire change intervals so the tool will be handy to have.