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Your disks have the minimum thickness on them. You would need a micrometer to measure the thickness.
Unfortunately, you should probably take this to a professional.
It may be less expensive to just replace the disks.
I know of no shop that will re-cut a slotted and drilled rotor, destroys cutting tools.
To the best of my knowledge they are cheapish replacement items!
You can sand them down with a orbital sander and 100grit for 5 min then 120 then 180 grit if there not out of round. This work well for me . Do a search for polishing rotors.
When we make rotors we put them through a surface grinder that makes the rotors parallel to 1/10 of a thousands of an inch (0.0001"). Buy new rotor friction rings.
the next time you and your buddies are debating the finer points of brake rotor finish (you've done that, right?), ask them how smooth brake rotors should be. When they've chewed on that issue for awhile, ask them how flat the rotors should be and how they check flatness (if they check it at all). Then ask them what is the best way to finish brake rotors?
Rotor surface finish: How smooth is smooth enough? Says who?
Rotor resurfacing: Should rotors be turned every time pads are replaced or not?
Rotor runout: How much is too much? How do you compensate for it or get rid of it?
Rotor flatness and parallelism: How much is too much? Can you even measure it?
Rotor thickness: How thin is too thin?
Hard spots: Will resurfacing remove them or will they come back?
Sanding rotors: Does it help? If so, how should it be done?
Resurfacing equipment: A bench lathe, an on-car lathe or both?
New rotors: Install as is or resurface to true up?
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