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Hey guys, I have a 96 FLHT that I cannot get the rear brake to stop dragging. When I say it's dragging I'm talking that after a couple of mile run the rear rotor is too hot to even touch.
First problem I suspected was the master cylinder. I tore it down and it was indeed all gunked up so I rebuilt it. Problem still remained. Next I inspected the rear caliper and decided to replace it with a new one. After a short ride once again the problem still remains.
Fluid levels are good per the sight glass. Anyone have any ideas what else I can check?
I'm a new member here, so I may not be able to help much, but here's my thoughts. If the HD rear master cylinder is anything like the ones they put on all my Hondas, it will have two holes in it - one for pulling fluid in, and the other, a much smaller return hole. The return holes are notorious for getting plugged over time and will cause exactly what you've described. A lot of people miss that during a rebuild. Make sure it's clear by poking a steel guitar string through.
Maybe by now you've cured your problem - hope so. Let me know if you did.
I'm a new member here, so I may not be able to help much, but here's my thoughts. If the HD rear master cylinder is anything like the ones they put on all my Hondas, it will have two holes in it - one for pulling fluid in, and the other, a much smaller return hole. The return holes are notorious for getting plugged over time and will cause exactly what you've described. A lot of people miss that during a rebuild. Make sure it's clear by poking a steel guitar string through.
Maybe by now you've cured your problem - hope so. Let me know if you did.
Peace.
Thanks for the advice Tom. Actually I'm still having the problem. When I did the rebuild I made sure that both holes in the reservoir were clear so I know that's not the problem. I'm really at a loss on what could be causing the problem.
Thanks for the advice Tom. Actually I'm still having the problem. When I did the rebuild I made sure that both holes in the reservoir were clear so I know that's not the problem. I'm really at a loss on what could be causing the problem.
Jake - you may want to disassemble the master cylinder again and see if the rubber piece on the piston is correctly installed. Sometimes people put them on backwards and they'll get stuck in the bore. The other thing that sometimes happens is that rubber piece is on correctly, but it sort of inverts (like an umbrella in the wind) and binds up in the bore. I know it's a pain to check, but you might as well.
When the brake is dragging can you crack the bleeder screw on the caliper and get it to release? Or is the caliper not moving freely on the sliders?
Yes, it will release. I can even put pressure on the caliper from the side and cause the caliper to slide.
Originally Posted by tomk1960
Jake - you may want to disassemble the master cylinder again and see if the rubber piece on the piston is correctly installed. Sometimes people put them on backwards and they'll get stuck in the bore. The other thing that sometimes happens is that rubber piece is on correctly, but it sort of inverts (like an umbrella in the wind) and binds up in the bore. I know it's a pain to check, but you might as well.
Keep us posted.
Tom
Thanks for the advice Tom. I'm just curious, if the rubber piece on the piston in the master cylinder was installed incorrectly, would I be able to push the caliper piston in by hand?
I've had that problem and found my adjustment at the M cyl didn't allow the piston to retract far enough to clear the return hole, keeping pressure on the caliper. Worth checking.
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