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Recent
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Nickd2689
September 27, 2016
342
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2017/01/24 16:42:57
Nickd2689
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2017/01/24 16:43:08
Nickd2689
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2017/01/24 16:43:17
Nickd2689
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2017/01/24 16:44:13
Nickd2689
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2017/01/24 16:44:20
Nickd2689
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2017/01/24 16:44:26
Nickd2689
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2017/01/26 05:32:44
Nickd2689
To create a bend, first cut a couple extra pieces of stock
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2017/01/26 05:43:29
Nickd2689
Next position the piece to be bent in a vice like so. Depending on how much of a bend you want, you might have to put 2 pieces on each side. I found that 2 pieces on each side created a bend that fit my fender perfectly.
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2017/01/26 05:43:32
Nickd2689
After tightening the vice until your flat stock bend is where you want it, you should have something like this. On this piece, the bend area is wider due to spacing of the flat stock in the vice. You can make tighter bends if desired or place it in a vice longways, heat it with a torch, and while guiding it with channel locks, gently apply pressure to the vice, and tighten the bend area. Hope this makes sense.
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2017/01/26 05:43:36
Nickd2689
1000 times better than that ugly fuckin tan color. At least in my opinion. I haven't heard a single person say they like the tan color
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2017/01/27 10:28:05
Nickd2689
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2017/01/27 10:28:09
Nickd2689
This was my old street bob. I also have a sissy bar for ridin 2 up but I don't know why cause my fiancé has a sportster.
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2017/02/03 18:19:54
Nickd2689
First, I pulled the seat and battery. My order of doing things may not be identical as in the manual either by the way
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2017/02/05 18:09:15
Nickd2689
Remove the console, 3 Allen heads, top two have washers that are quite easy to loose. Disconnect the connectors and set aside
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2017/02/05 18:09:35
Nickd2689
I disconnected the wiring at the neck in front of the tank. Pain in the ass to remove all those wire harnesses but that's the way I did it
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2017/02/05 18:09:51
Nickd2689
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2017/02/05 18:10:11
Nickd2689
I didn't remove the air filter first as instructed because it wasn't blocking any fastness. Remove these 3 Allen heads and be careful not to tear the gasket cause I did not recieve a new one.
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2017/02/05 18:13:15
Nickd2689
These caps have o rings which also weren't supplied with the kit. They are a pain to remove, and I would suggest having touch up paint on hand, and wrapping a screw driver with electrical tape. They pry out.
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2017/02/05 18:13:18
Nickd2689
Next comes the exhaust.
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2017/02/05 18:13:25
Nickd2689
I loosened the bracket nuts to the pipe, and removed the bracket from the bike instead of the pipe.
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2017/02/05 18:13:34
Nickd2689
I disconnected the front and rear o2 sensor connectors instead of removing them as it's easier. The front runs along the front under the voltage regulator. The rear goes under the seat. Have to be gentle with it but I slid the connector through the access hole towards the top on the left side of the compartment.
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2017/02/05 18:20:42
Nickd2689
Didn't have to pull the fuse box cover but the connector sticking up is the rear o2 connector.
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2017/02/05 18:20:48
Nickd2689
2 1/2 nuts on each header, and the o2 sensor connectors, and the headers come out. Be sure to remove the old gaskets. Sometimes they can be stubborn. I used a flathead pocket screwdriver and gently pry around the inside instead of the outside, and mine came right out. The kit comes with tapered exhaust gaskets, I needed the flat screamin eagle gaskets for my exhaust.
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2017/02/05 18:21:04
Nickd2689
Next remove the backing plate for the air filter, 3 torx bits inside, and 2 hex heads above the throttlebody to the left and the right, these two thread into the heads. There are also 2 o rings behind these. I had one stick to the head until I removed the rocker box cover, then saw an oring fall and roll away. Luckily I hadn't removed the cover yet, so the engine hadn't been opened so it was easy to figure out where it came from.
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2017/02/05 18:21:31
Nickd2689
This is a shot of the fuel gauge wiring. There is also a clip that holds it. I found it easiest to remove the front tank bolt, and loosen the rear, then remove the cross under tube under the front of the tank. I clamped the fuel line from the left side, then covered the right side with my finger. Next I lifted the front of the tank, and reinstalled the cross under tube above the frame, and let the tank rest on it. This elevated the tank just enough for me to see/remove the clip and gaugewIres
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2017/02/05 18:21:45
Nickd2689
Next I removed the motor mount. Two 9/16 on the left side and zone 9/16 on the right. On the right side the bolt goes through the frame, then a washer, then the motor mount, then a 9/16 nut.
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2017/02/05 18:21:52
Nickd2689
By the way, I used a wheel chock from harbor freight (normally don't trust their products, but the welds looked good and it was actually very secure) and a jack so I could place the bike in 6th and rotate the rear tire when I needed to rotate the crank, or valve train.
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2017/02/05 18:21:59
Nickd2689
Remove the spark plug wires from the motor mount and it's ready to come out. At this point I disconnected every connector. Acr's, throttle body connector (the larger one on the left side of the throttle body has a push pin zip tie to secure the harness on the right side), fuel injector connectors, etc. the rear acr connector clips on to the wire loom on the left side of the upper frame, just above the engine, so remember to remove it before you try to remove the head.
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2017/02/05 18:44:10
Nickd2689
A shot of the bolt, and right side of the motor mount.
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2017/02/05 18:44:17
Nickd2689
I removed the coil pack/plug wires cause it's easy and it gave me more room. There's a electrical connector that plugs in behind the coil to a plastic holder, don't know what the connector is for, but it is not used. It doesn't have to be removed. Only 2 Allen heads secure the coil pack. I removed the plugs to make it easier to rotate the crank.
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2017/02/05 18:44:25
Nickd2689
Next I removed the covers, and the throttle body. Each cover has 6 fasteners, the left side of each cylinder are short, and the right side long. It does show where they go in the service manual. The throttle body and injectors/fuel line all come out together. 2 Allen heads on each side of the throttle body. I used a small Allen wrench on the left side of the motor, and an Allen key, with a long 1/4 in extension and ratchet for the right side. I removed the sensor on rhe throttle body first.
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2017/02/05 18:44:33
Nickd2689
One bolt and the sensor comes off the throttle body. When removing the t body just gentle pull the flanges back and lift the assembly up and back through the right side and it comes right out.
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2017/02/05 18:44:41
Nickd2689
Yes, I taped off the intake ports so nothing could fall in the engine that I was about to disassemble. A mechanics habit.
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2017/02/05 18:44:49
Nickd2689
Remove the oil breathers before the rocker arms, because if you mistakenly don't have it on the compression stroke, the pressure from the valve springs will be placed on the oil breather bolts, and they will break
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2017/02/05 18:45:03
Nickd2689
I revived the pushrod cover clips, they just snap off with a flathead, then use paper clips and rubber bands to hold the covers up so I can feel the pushrods rotate to confirm there's no tension on them before removing rocker arms.
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2017/02/05 19:06:54
Nickd2689
4 bolts for the rocker arms then they come out, and I also removed the pushrods at this point.
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2017/02/05 19:07:00
Nickd2689
Don't lose the 2 o rings.
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2017/02/05 19:07:11
Nickd2689
Two more o rings for the top of the pushrod covers under the bottom of each head.
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2017/02/05 19:07:18
Nickd2689
Next I removed the 6 bolts for the rocker box. I labeled front/rear for everything. Also, there is an o ring shown that fits in the rocker box for the oil breather. Replace EVERY o ring. Once disturbed they can not be trusted.
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2017/02/05 19:07:26
Nickd2689
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