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Nickd2689
September 27, 2016
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To remove the heads and cylinders, you will need a 12 point socket. Remove the 4 fasteners for each head. I followed the bolt removal sequence for everything I removed throughout this install. I suggest you do the same. Be sure to clean all gasket mounting surfaces with an sos pad. I didn't take pics of each surface I cleaned.
0
2017/02/05 19:13:26
Nickd2689
Once you remove the head, the cylinder will slide off. There's an oring deal under the cylinder, and a smaller oring on each cylinder bottom that fits on to an opening on the crank case. Cover the cylinder studs with fuel line of shop rags so you don't damage them or your Pistons. Next I tore down the rear cylinder following the same steps as the front cylinder.
0
2017/02/05 19:13:31
Nickd2689
Next remove the timing cover. You will lose oil even if you already drained the oil like I did.
0
2017/02/05 19:13:35
Nickd2689
I removed the cam chain tensioner first. You don't have to worry about timing until you start assembling everything.
0
2017/02/05 19:13:41
Nickd2689
For whatever reason this site isn't putting my pics in the order I select, so if any are off that will matter I will say when to do that particular step. Anyway the lifter covers come off with 4 Allen heads. Careful not to lose the anti rotation pin. The gasket has two prongs the cover it during installation. I removed the lifters with a magnet, but if you're replacing them feel free to use pliers.
0
2017/02/05 19:13:46
Nickd2689
Another shot of the anti rotation pin. Do not forget to reinstall this. Since we're here, the lifter oil jets have to be positioned facing the passages in the crank case. The service manual will be more specific. From now on, service manual will be SM
0
2017/02/05 19:13:50
Nickd2689
I stuffed clean shop rags in the crank case In case one of the piston c clips went flying. I removed one per piston using a flat pocket screwdriver, then pushed the wrist pin out from the opposite side. There is a tool in the SM for c clip removal. I've always used a flat screwdriver without struggling.
0
2017/02/05 19:13:53
Nickd2689
The rear cylinder stripped down.
0
2017/02/05 19:32:11
Nickd2689
Piston wrist pin removal after removing one c clip. I also install one on each piston before installing it onto the rods. Easier to do them on a bench.
0
2017/02/05 19:32:16
Nickd2689
Removing the rear cylinder lifter cover.
0
2017/02/05 19:32:20
Nickd2689
I remove the lifter anti rotation pin with a magnet just to be safe. It will suck if you drop it in the crank case.
0
2017/02/05 19:32:26
Nickd2689
So I'm sorta slow considering I pinned the HYDRAULIC tensioner before removal. I know I know. Anyway take the tensioner off first with two torx bolts.
0
2017/02/05 19:32:29
Nickd2689
Use the cam locking tool, especially for assembly. It's a lot easier than having someone hold the rear brake. For timing components, better spend the extra 40 bucks. Clearly each sprocket has one bolt. The crank (bottom) is smaller and lower torque spec than the top (cam).
0
2017/02/05 19:32:33
Nickd2689
The 6 bolts with the blue marks around them have to come out to remove the cam plate assembly, the 4 with green marks are for the oil pump and don't have to be removed.
0
2017/02/05 19:41:46
Nickd2689
Cam plate removed. 2 o rings seal it by fitting into the crank case, and a third gets placed on the back of the cam plate. Mine all stuck to the crank case and the mo co shorted me one. Never re use these o rings. It's not worth jeopardizing your lubrication system.
0
2017/02/05 19:41:51
Nickd2689
A back shot of the cam plate. Two more Allen heads secure the tensioner. Remove these, then the snap ring on the front cam shaft. The snap ring is located on the front side of the plate, once removed, both cams, spacers, and chain will slide right out. I chose to reinstall the cam chains the facing the same way as they were before removal.
0
2017/02/05 19:41:57
Nickd2689
A shot of the snap ring. Just pointing out this goes on the front (right) cam. I have the cam plate rotated here.
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2017/02/05 19:42:03
Nickd2689
A shot of the cam chest. Be sure to check runout on your crankshaft with a dial indicator. I forgot to take a pic of mine so check the sm.
0
2017/02/05 19:54:51
Nickd2689
The new cams have timing marks on the ends and the gears. Very nice. Slip em on the chain and line up the timing marks. Then install into the cam plate with spacers, and the snap ring. Check the SM for this as you have to check clearance of the snap ring ears with a feeler gage
0
2017/02/05 19:54:58
Nickd2689
The cam bearing removal tool is amazing. So easy. Snap it into the bearing, slide on the sleeve and washer/bolt, and tighten. Remember, if you remove them improperly, they can break, and all those rollers end up in your crank case. The screamin eagle tool makes that impossible.
0
2017/02/05 19:55:07
Nickd2689
This is the se cam bearing installer. I soaked the cam bearings in syn 3 first. The plate is held with fasteners that thread into the timing cover fastener bolt holes. When you install the bearings, the thicker side (side with the letters and numbers) is the side that the installer tool pressed against. So the thicker side of the bearings face outward once installed. Once the installer is set up, you torque it to 25 ft lbs, and the bearings are installed. I used a depth gage to double check.
0
2017/02/05 19:55:14
Nickd2689
Use loctite (SM specifies red/blue) from here on out. Reinstall the six cam plate bolts using the proper torque spec and sequence. Before installing the cam plate, replace the three o rings I mentioned earlier.
0
2017/02/05 19:55:22
Nickd2689
Install the cam gears without the chain, then place a straight edge against the sprockets, and try to insert the appropriate feeler gage in between the straight edge and the cam sprocket. Check SM for proper feeler gage. If you can fit it in between the two, you need to use a different cam spacer. The cam spacer kit isn't included in the 117 kit. When you measure this, set the timing marks so it's easier to install the gears when you get the chain on it.
0
2017/02/05 19:55:28
Nickd2689
Next reinstall the sprockets and chain/tensioner. I found it easier to set the timing marks with the gears in the chain, and then install the locking tool, then install the gears to the cam plate. The locking tool only fits one way, and I highly suggest buying it.
0
2017/02/05 19:55:34
Nickd2689
Torque specs-use em or pay the price. These gears have initial torque, and final torque specs. Each gets torqued to 15 ft lbs, then the crank bolt (smaller 1/2 head) gets torqued to 24 ft lbs and the cam (larger 9/16 head) gets torqued to 34 ft lbs.
0
2017/02/05 20:21:36
Nickd2689
Install the lifters so the oil hole lines up with the crank case passages. Check SM. I soaked my lifters in syn 3 for a few hours while I tore down the motor.
0
2017/02/05 20:21:41
Nickd2689
Install the anti rotation pin, then the gasket.
0
2017/02/05 20:21:47
Nickd2689
Install both lifter covers next.
0
2017/02/05 20:21:52
Nickd2689
Getting the pistons ready, be sure to position the rings according to the diagram in the SM.
0
2017/02/05 20:21:57
Nickd2689
Lubricate the Pistons with a little oil, then Install the new Pistons by installing one c clip in each, then installing them onto the rods, that way you only have to put one c clip on while it's over the engine.
0
2017/02/05 20:22:02
Nickd2689
Install the new seal for the cylinder, and place the smaller orange o ring on the case. There is a slight recess where it goes so it will seal against the cylinder.
0
2017/02/05 20:30:09
Nickd2689
Cylinder installed. The next pic shows the piston ring compressor pliers I used to install the cylinder.
0
2017/02/05 20:30:18
Nickd2689
See I told you. Anyway, compress the rings and gently tap the cylinder down.
0
2017/02/05 20:30:26
Nickd2689
Two nice big jugs-Er um cylinder jugs.
0
2017/02/05 20:30:35
Nickd2689
Dirty head/gasket surface.
0
2017/02/05 20:30:42
Nickd2689
Clean surface. Be sure to clean the top as well.
0
2017/02/05 20:30:50
Nickd2689
Remove the exhaust gaskets if you haven't already.
0
2017/02/05 20:30:55
Nickd2689
The head gaskets specify which side is up. So do some of the others.
0
2017/02/05 20:31:01
Nickd2689
After installing the gasket, slide the heads on. The bolts on the left side of the heads are short, while the center are long. These too have initial torque, final torque, then an additional 90 degrees.
0
2017/02/05 20:37:30
Nickd2689
The longer bolts.
0
2017/02/05 20:37:35
Nickd2689
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