Harley Davidson Forums
Use loctite (SM specifies red/blue) from here on out. Reinstall the six cam plate bolts using the proper torque spec and sequence. Before installing the cam plate, replace the three o rings I mentioned earlier.
Use loctite (SM specifies red/blue) from here on out. Reinstall the six cam plate bolts using the proper torque spec and sequence. Before installing the cam plate, replace the three o rings I mentioned earlier.
0 2017/02/05 19:55:22
This is the se cam bearing installer. I soaked the cam bearings in syn 3 first. The plate is held with fasteners that thread into the timing cover fastener bolt holes. When you install the bearings, the thicker side (side with the letters and numbers) is the side that the installer tool pressed against. So the thicker side of the bearings face outward once installed. Once the installer is set up, you torque it to 25 ft lbs, and the bearings are installed. I used a depth gage to double check.
This is the se cam bearing installer. I soaked the cam bearings in syn 3 first. The plate is held with fasteners that thread into the timing cover fastener bolt holes. When you install the bearings, the thicker side (side with the letters and numbers) is the side that the installer tool pressed against. So the thicker side of the bearings face outward once installed. Once the installer is set up, you torque it to 25 ft lbs, and the bearings are installed. I used a depth gage to double check.
0 2017/02/05 19:55:14
The cam bearing removal tool is amazing. So easy. Snap it into the bearing, slide on the sleeve and washer/bolt, and tighten. Remember, if you remove them improperly, they can break, and all those rollers end up in your crank case. The screamin eagle tool makes that impossible.
The cam bearing removal tool is amazing. So easy. Snap it into the bearing, slide on the sleeve and washer/bolt, and tighten. Remember, if you remove them improperly, they can break, and all those rollers end up in your crank case. The screamin eagle tool makes that impossible.
0 2017/02/05 19:55:07
The new cams have timing marks on the ends and the gears. Very nice. Slip em on the chain and line up the timing marks. Then install into the cam plate with spacers, and the snap ring. Check the SM for this as you have to check clearance of the snap ring ears with a feeler gage
The new cams have timing marks on the ends and the gears. Very nice. Slip em on the chain and line up the timing marks. Then install into the cam plate with spacers, and the snap ring. Check the SM for this as you have to check clearance of the snap ring ears with a feeler gage
0 2017/02/05 19:54:58
A shot of the cam chest. Be sure to check runout on your crankshaft with a dial indicator. I forgot to take a pic of mine so check the sm.
A shot of the cam chest. Be sure to check runout on your crankshaft with a dial indicator. I forgot to take a pic of mine so check the sm.
0 2017/02/05 19:54:51
A shot of the snap ring. Just pointing out this goes on the front (right) cam. I have the cam plate rotated here.
A shot of the snap ring. Just pointing out this goes on the front (right) cam. I have the cam plate rotated here.
0 2017/02/05 19:42:03
A back shot of the cam plate. Two more Allen heads secure the tensioner. Remove these, then the snap ring on the front cam shaft. The snap ring is located on the front side of the plate, once removed, both cams, spacers, and chain will slide right out. I chose to reinstall the cam chains the facing the same way as they were before removal.
A back shot of the cam plate. Two more Allen heads secure the tensioner. Remove these, then the snap ring on the front cam shaft. The snap ring is located on the front side of the plate, once removed, both cams, spacers, and chain will slide right out. I chose to reinstall the cam chains the facing the same way as they were before removal.
0 2017/02/05 19:41:57
Cam plate removed. 2 o rings seal it by fitting into the crank case, and a third gets placed on the back of the cam plate. Mine all stuck to the crank case and the mo co shorted me one. Never re use these o rings. It's not worth jeopardizing your lubrication system.
Cam plate removed. 2 o rings seal it by fitting into the crank case, and a third gets placed on the back of the cam plate. Mine all stuck to the crank case and the mo co shorted me one. Never re use these o rings. It's not worth jeopardizing your lubrication system.
0 2017/02/05 19:41:51
The 6 bolts with the blue marks around them have to come out to remove the cam plate assembly, the 4 with green marks are for the oil pump and don't have to be removed.
The 6 bolts with the blue marks around them have to come out to remove the cam plate assembly, the 4 with green marks are for the oil pump and don't have to be removed.
0 2017/02/05 19:41:46
Use the cam locking tool, especially for assembly. It's a lot easier than having someone hold the rear brake. For timing components, better spend the extra 40 bucks. Clearly each sprocket has one bolt. The crank (bottom) is smaller and lower torque spec than the top (cam).
Use the cam locking tool, especially for assembly. It's a lot easier than having someone hold the rear brake. For timing components, better spend the extra 40 bucks. Clearly each sprocket has one bolt. The crank (bottom) is smaller and lower torque spec than the top (cam).
0 2017/02/05 19:32:33
So I'm sorta slow considering I pinned the HYDRAULIC tensioner before removal. I know I know. Anyway take the tensioner off first with two torx bolts.
So I'm sorta slow considering I pinned the HYDRAULIC tensioner before removal. I know I know. Anyway take the tensioner off first with two torx bolts.
0 2017/02/05 19:32:29
I remove the lifter anti rotation pin with a magnet just to be safe. It will suck if you drop it in the crank case.
I remove the lifter anti rotation pin with a magnet just to be safe. It will suck if you drop it in the crank case.
0 2017/02/05 19:32:26
Removing the rear cylinder lifter cover.
Removing the rear cylinder lifter cover.
0 2017/02/05 19:32:20
Piston wrist pin removal after removing one c clip. I also install one on each piston before installing it onto the rods. Easier to do them on a bench.
Piston wrist pin removal after removing one c clip. I also install one on each piston before installing it onto the rods. Easier to do them on a bench.
0 2017/02/05 19:32:16
The rear cylinder stripped down.
The rear cylinder stripped down.
0 2017/02/05 19:32:11
I stuffed clean shop rags in the crank case In case one of the piston c clips went flying. I removed one per piston using a flat pocket screwdriver, then pushed the wrist pin out from the opposite side. There is a tool in the SM for c clip removal. I've always used a flat screwdriver without struggling.
I stuffed clean shop rags in the crank case In case one of the piston c clips went flying. I removed one per piston using a flat pocket screwdriver, then pushed the wrist pin out from the opposite side. There is a tool in the SM for c clip removal. I've always used a flat screwdriver without struggling.
0 2017/02/05 19:13:53
Another shot of the anti rotation pin. Do not forget to reinstall this. Since we're here, the lifter oil jets have to be positioned facing the passages in the crank case. The service manual will be more specific. From now on, service manual will be SM
Another shot of the anti rotation pin. Do not forget to reinstall this. Since we're here, the lifter oil jets have to be positioned facing the passages in the crank case. The service manual will be more specific. From now on, service manual will be SM
0 2017/02/05 19:13:50
For whatever reason this site isn't putting my pics in the order I select, so if any are off that will matter I will say when to do that particular step. Anyway the lifter covers come off with 4 Allen heads. Careful not to lose the anti rotation pin. The gasket has two prongs the cover it during installation. I removed the lifters with a magnet, but if you're replacing them feel free to use pliers.
For whatever reason this site isn't putting my pics in the order I select, so if any are off that will matter I will say when to do that particular step. Anyway the lifter covers come off with 4 Allen heads. Careful not to lose the anti rotation pin. The gasket has two prongs the cover it during installation. I removed the lifters with a magnet, but if you're replacing them feel free to use pliers.
0 2017/02/05 19:13:46
I removed the cam chain tensioner first. You don't have to worry about timing until you start assembling everything.
I removed the cam chain tensioner first. You don't have to worry about timing until you start assembling everything.
0 2017/02/05 19:13:41
Next remove the timing cover. You will lose oil even if you already drained the oil like I did.
Next remove the timing cover. You will lose oil even if you already drained the oil like I did.
0 2017/02/05 19:13:35
Once you remove the head, the cylinder will slide off. There's an oring deal under the cylinder, and a smaller oring on each cylinder bottom that fits on to an opening on the crank case. Cover the cylinder studs with fuel line of shop rags so you don't damage them or your Pistons. Next I tore down the rear cylinder following the same steps as the front cylinder.
Once you remove the head, the cylinder will slide off. There's an oring deal under the cylinder, and a smaller oring on each cylinder bottom that fits on to an opening on the crank case. Cover the cylinder studs with fuel line of shop rags so you don't damage them or your Pistons. Next I tore down the rear cylinder following the same steps as the front cylinder.
0 2017/02/05 19:13:31
To remove the heads and cylinders, you will need a 12 point socket. Remove the 4 fasteners for each head. I followed the bolt removal sequence for everything I removed throughout this install. I suggest you do the same. Be sure to clean all gasket mounting surfaces with an sos pad. I didn't take pics of each surface I cleaned.
To remove the heads and cylinders, you will need a 12 point socket. Remove the 4 fasteners for each head. I followed the bolt removal sequence for everything I removed throughout this install. I suggest you do the same. Be sure to clean all gasket mounting surfaces with an sos pad. I didn't take pics of each surface I cleaned.
0 2017/02/05 19:13:26
Next I removed the 6 bolts for the rocker box. I labeled front/rear for everything. Also, there is an o ring shown that fits in the rocker box for the oil breather. Replace EVERY o ring. Once disturbed they can not be trusted.
Next I removed the 6 bolts for the rocker box. I labeled front/rear for everything. Also, there is an o ring shown that fits in the rocker box for the oil breather. Replace EVERY o ring. Once disturbed they can not be trusted.
0 2017/02/05 19:07:26
Two more o rings for the top of the pushrod covers under the bottom of each head.
Two more o rings for the top of the pushrod covers under the bottom of each head.
0 2017/02/05 19:07:18
Don't lose the 2 o rings.
Don't lose the 2 o rings.
0 2017/02/05 19:07:11
4 bolts for the rocker arms then they come out, and I also removed the pushrods at this point.
4 bolts for the rocker arms then they come out, and I also removed the pushrods at this point.
0 2017/02/05 19:07:00
I revived the pushrod cover clips, they just snap off with a flathead, then use paper clips and rubber bands to hold the covers up so I can feel the pushrods rotate to confirm there's no tension on them before removing rocker arms.
I revived the pushrod cover clips, they just snap off with a flathead, then use paper clips and rubber bands to hold the covers up so I can feel the pushrods rotate to confirm there's no tension on them before removing rocker arms.
0 2017/02/05 19:06:54
Remove the oil breathers before the rocker arms, because if you mistakenly don't have it on the compression stroke, the pressure from the valve springs will be placed on the oil breather bolts, and they will break
Remove the oil breathers before the rocker arms, because if you mistakenly don't have it on the compression stroke, the pressure from the valve springs will be placed on the oil breather bolts, and they will break
0 2017/02/05 18:45:03
Yes, I taped off the intake ports so nothing could fall in the engine that I was about to disassemble. A mechanics habit.
Yes, I taped off the intake ports so nothing could fall in the engine that I was about to disassemble. A mechanics habit.
0 2017/02/05 18:44:49
One bolt and the sensor comes off the throttle body. When removing the t body just gentle pull the flanges back and lift the assembly up and back through the right side and it comes right out.
One bolt and the sensor comes off the throttle body. When removing the t body just gentle pull the flanges back and lift the assembly up and back through the right side and it comes right out.
0 2017/02/05 18:44:41
Next I removed the covers, and the throttle body. Each cover has 6 fasteners, the left side of each cylinder are short, and the right side long. It does show where they go in the service manual. The throttle body and injectors/fuel line all come out together. 2 Allen heads on each side of the throttle body. I used a small Allen wrench on the left side of the motor, and an Allen key, with a long 1/4 in extension and ratchet for the right side. I removed the sensor on rhe throttle body first.
Next I removed the covers, and the throttle body. Each cover has 6 fasteners, the left side of each cylinder are short, and the right side long. It does show where they go in the service manual. The throttle body and injectors/fuel line all come out together. 2 Allen heads on each side of the throttle body. I used a small Allen wrench on the left side of the motor, and an Allen key, with a long 1/4 in extension and ratchet for the right side. I removed the sensor on rhe throttle body first.
0 2017/02/05 18:44:33
I removed the coil pack/plug wires cause it's easy and it gave me more room. There's a electrical connector that plugs in behind the coil to a plastic holder, don't know what the connector is for, but it is not used. It doesn't have to be removed. Only 2 Allen heads secure the coil pack. I removed the plugs to make it easier to rotate the crank.
I removed the coil pack/plug wires cause it's easy and it gave me more room. There's a electrical connector that plugs in behind the coil to a plastic holder, don't know what the connector is for, but it is not used. It doesn't have to be removed. Only 2 Allen heads secure the coil pack. I removed the plugs to make it easier to rotate the crank.
0 2017/02/05 18:44:25
A shot of the bolt, and right side of the motor mount.
A shot of the bolt, and right side of the motor mount.
0 2017/02/05 18:44:17
Remove the spark plug wires from the motor mount and it's ready to come out. At this point I disconnected every connector. Acr's, throttle body connector (the larger one on the left side of the throttle body has a push pin zip tie to secure the harness on the right side), fuel injector connectors, etc. the rear acr connector clips on to the wire loom on the left side of the upper frame, just above the engine, so remember to remove it before you try to remove the head.
Remove the spark plug wires from the motor mount and it's ready to come out. At this point I disconnected every connector. Acr's, throttle body connector (the larger one on the left side of the throttle body has a push pin zip tie to secure the harness on the right side), fuel injector connectors, etc. the rear acr connector clips on to the wire loom on the left side of the upper frame, just above the engine, so remember to remove it before you try to remove the head.
0 2017/02/05 18:44:10
By the way, I used a wheel chock from harbor freight (normally don't trust their products, but the welds looked good and it was actually very secure) and a jack so I could place the bike in 6th and rotate the rear tire when I needed to rotate the crank, or valve train.
By the way, I used a wheel chock from harbor freight (normally don't trust their products, but the welds looked good and it was actually very secure) and a jack so I could place the bike in 6th and rotate the rear tire when I needed to rotate the crank, or valve train.
0 2017/02/05 18:21:59
Next I removed the motor mount. Two 9/16 on the left side and zone 9/16 on the right. On the right side the bolt goes through the frame, then a washer, then the motor mount, then a 9/16 nut.
Next I removed the motor mount. Two 9/16 on the left side and zone 9/16 on the right. On the right side the bolt goes through the frame, then a washer, then the motor mount, then a 9/16 nut.
0 2017/02/05 18:21:52
This is a shot of the fuel gauge wiring. There is also a clip that holds it. I found it easiest to remove the front tank bolt, and loosen the rear, then remove the cross under tube under the front of the tank. I clamped the fuel line from the left side, then covered the right side with my finger. Next I lifted the front of the tank, and reinstalled the cross under tube above the frame, and let the tank rest on it. This elevated the tank just enough for me to see/remove the clip and gaugewIres
This is a shot of the fuel gauge wiring. There is also a clip that holds it. I found it easiest to remove the front tank bolt, and loosen the rear, then remove the cross under tube under the front of the tank. I clamped the fuel line from the left side, then covered the right side with my finger. Next I lifted the front of the tank, and reinstalled the cross under tube above the frame, and let the tank rest on it. This elevated the tank just enough for me to see/remove the clip and gaugewIres
0 2017/02/05 18:21:45
Next remove the backing plate for the air filter, 3 torx bits inside, and 2 hex heads above the throttlebody to the left and the right, these two thread into the heads. There are also 2 o rings behind these. I had one stick to the head until I removed the rocker box cover, then saw an oring fall and roll away. Luckily I hadn't removed the cover yet, so the engine hadn't been opened so it was easy to figure out where it came from.
Next remove the backing plate for the air filter, 3 torx bits inside, and 2 hex heads above the throttlebody to the left and the right, these two thread into the heads. There are also 2 o rings behind these. I had one stick to the head until I removed the rocker box cover, then saw an oring fall and roll away. Luckily I hadn't removed the cover yet, so the engine hadn't been opened so it was easy to figure out where it came from.
0 2017/02/05 18:21:31
2 1/2 nuts on each header, and the o2 sensor connectors, and the headers come out. Be sure to remove the old gaskets. Sometimes they can be stubborn. I used a flathead pocket screwdriver and gently pry around the inside instead of the outside, and mine came right out. The kit comes with tapered exhaust gaskets, I needed the flat screamin eagle gaskets for my exhaust.
2 1/2 nuts on each header, and the o2 sensor connectors, and the headers come out. Be sure to remove the old gaskets. Sometimes they can be stubborn. I used a flathead pocket screwdriver and gently pry around the inside instead of the outside, and mine came right out. The kit comes with tapered exhaust gaskets, I needed the flat screamin eagle gaskets for my exhaust.
0 2017/02/05 18:21:04
Didn't have to pull the fuse box cover but the connector sticking up is the rear o2 connector.
Didn't have to pull the fuse box cover but the connector sticking up is the rear o2 connector.
0 2017/02/05 18:20:48
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