Wheel Bearings Replacement, Cross-Reference, Timken, Wheel Wobble
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
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Wheel Bearings Replacement, Cross-Reference, Timken, Wheel Wobble
Cross-reference for stock H-D bearings #9276A
Use Timken 205PP (fafnir)
This is a very common bearing used in many applications -automotive, farm and industrial. It is also available with a metal shield but that is not necessary in this application. Price is typically around $18 each.
My 09 Super Glide with 8000 miles developed a very slight wobble only at 45 mph. This very well could have been due to the wear pattern on the original front tire. I adjusted the steering neck bearing (very easy) but the problem persisted.
I have just now replaced the front tire with a Dunlop 501 (different tread pattern) and I installed a pair of the Timken bearings to replace the stock bearings. Motion Pro makes a reasonably-priced bearing removal tool.
The wobble is completely gone now.
My local bearing supply shop looked at the stock Harley bearing and said that it is a very inexpensive piece sourced from china or somewhere in asia. They look okay but he says the metal material is not up to quality. He claims they replace these sort of things all the time.
He is not a motorcycle rider but he said " Ya know, I'm surprised a company like Harley would use those kinda things."
I have a couple more Timkens to stick in the rear next time I change the tire.
Use Timken 205PP (fafnir)
This is a very common bearing used in many applications -automotive, farm and industrial. It is also available with a metal shield but that is not necessary in this application. Price is typically around $18 each.
My 09 Super Glide with 8000 miles developed a very slight wobble only at 45 mph. This very well could have been due to the wear pattern on the original front tire. I adjusted the steering neck bearing (very easy) but the problem persisted.
I have just now replaced the front tire with a Dunlop 501 (different tread pattern) and I installed a pair of the Timken bearings to replace the stock bearings. Motion Pro makes a reasonably-priced bearing removal tool.
The wobble is completely gone now.
My local bearing supply shop looked at the stock Harley bearing and said that it is a very inexpensive piece sourced from china or somewhere in asia. They look okay but he says the metal material is not up to quality. He claims they replace these sort of things all the time.
He is not a motorcycle rider but he said " Ya know, I'm surprised a company like Harley would use those kinda things."
I have a couple more Timkens to stick in the rear next time I change the tire.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,921
Likes: 33
From: Lewisberry PA
thanks for the post. I have a spare wheels for my bike and plan on doing the bearings with the new tire. I have to make sure these bearings are the same in the touring bikes.
Is the tool I need?
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0458/
Is the tool I need?
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0458/
Last edited by luc.who; Sep 24, 2011 at 06:31 AM. Reason: bearing puller link added.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
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Yes, that's the tool but you need the size to fit the 25 mm axle hole of the bearings. The one you show is 28 mm and it's too big.
Be sure to get the other piece with the tool as a set. It's a two piece kit. The piece you show, the collet, along with a long rod that bevels-down at it's end kinda like a big screwdriver.
The way it works is that you insert the collet that you show into the old bearing. Turn the whole thing upside down on a concrete floor etc and then drive the bevel end of the rod into that split of the collet. Thats spreads out the collet to lock it into the bore of the bearing. Be sure to wham it in good to make a good lock. You then take a hammer and drive on the end of the rod to knock the old bearing out. It also helps to clean-out any grease from the inside of the bearing bore before inserting the collet.
Installing a new bearing is easy. Just start it in leveled on all sides and gently tap with a soft mallet. Go easy and you can walk it in easily and straight. If it gets crooked it aint gonna go anyways. When you get the new bearing flush to the wheel or hub casting, take something like a large tool socket and use that to gently go on in further to seat the bearing.
You can buy or make bearing installation tools but this has worked well for me.
Be sure to get the other piece with the tool as a set. It's a two piece kit. The piece you show, the collet, along with a long rod that bevels-down at it's end kinda like a big screwdriver.
The way it works is that you insert the collet that you show into the old bearing. Turn the whole thing upside down on a concrete floor etc and then drive the bevel end of the rod into that split of the collet. Thats spreads out the collet to lock it into the bore of the bearing. Be sure to wham it in good to make a good lock. You then take a hammer and drive on the end of the rod to knock the old bearing out. It also helps to clean-out any grease from the inside of the bearing bore before inserting the collet.
Installing a new bearing is easy. Just start it in leveled on all sides and gently tap with a soft mallet. Go easy and you can walk it in easily and straight. If it gets crooked it aint gonna go anyways. When you get the new bearing flush to the wheel or hub casting, take something like a large tool socket and use that to gently go on in further to seat the bearing.
You can buy or make bearing installation tools but this has worked well for me.
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Road Captain
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Dont forget to check the tightness of your steering-head bearings every once in a while. It's very easy to do. Get the correct fall-away but don't set them too tight.
Be aware also, that certain tires' tread pattern can wear in such a way as to induce a slight wobble at some speeds, especially if these other items are not correct.
Be aware also, that certain tires' tread pattern can wear in such a way as to induce a slight wobble at some speeds, especially if these other items are not correct.
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Road Captain
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 1,299
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From: Louisiana
This kind of info would be a good sticky. Hook it up Mods! Im going to book mark it just the same
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Idk WTF Harley did but my 08 street bobs from bearings went at 10000 miles. Like come on. So I decided to swap em with timkens. Found a pair of 1",cut 1/2 off the spacer and I should be good for life. I for life of me don't understand the MOCO. The quality seems to be in the gutter. You would think since we pay 40% more for a Harley they might want to put quality parts into the bikes. My v-star has twice the mileage and has cost me less in maintenance in the 4 years I've owned it than my street bob in 3 months.But I sure do love my street bob.
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Road Captain
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By the way, when replacing wheel bearings, install the bearing on the brake rotor side first and press/drive it down to its stop. Next insert the internal spacing tube and press/drive the other side bearing in. This is true for both front and rear. For dual disk front, I install the left side (primary brake rotor) to it's stop and then the right.
The reason for this is to get factory-spec line-up with the brake calipers.
The reason for this is to get factory-spec line-up with the brake calipers.
Last edited by leafman60; Dec 19, 2011 at 06:50 AM.