How Shotgun Shocks Work... a write-up
Thanks for taking the time
One thing I am a little confused... you mention you are adjusting rebound.. arent you adjusting compression as well if you hold both switches?
It seems to me that you really are adjusting both compression and rebound and not just rebound.. I guess you could for example load up the rear chamber (compression side) as stiff as you like it and then adjust height with the rear.. but then, wouldnt you be adding and subtracting pressure on the compression side as you move the opposite chamber? What separates the two chamber? is it hard or soft between the two.. can one chamber effect (affect?) the other? EDIT: sorry I see its the piston, so they do effect each other.. Id like to know what the piston to cylinder material is.. so I know what kind of life to expect.. teflon? Steel rings?
Eh, I think I just confused myself.
Last edited by barchetta; Oct 17, 2013 at 07:45 AM.
I just realized this is my first post since joining in 2008. Talk about a lurker!
Last edited by ducatirdr; Jan 14, 2014 at 08:04 AM.
What happens if you leave the raise button on too long? Can it blow a seal? Do you think I have a slow leak or am I being a wuss about putting enough air in the thing for two up? I know the new pump is slower than some older models so maybe fill times are longer...???
What happens if you leave the raise button on too long? Can it blow a seal? Do you think I have a slow leak or am I being a wuss about putting enough air in the thing for two up? I know the new pump is slower than some older models so maybe fill times are longer...???
ie; the air from the compressor isn't getting into the shock.
My first thought is, did you push the air line into the air compressor far enough?
If I recall you should have actually heard a click when it bottomed out.
It can be removed again just by pressing down on the outer collar of the compressor connector.
Maybe you should try re-seating it again.
I even went so far on mine to apply a very thin layer of silicone near the end of the air line (but not inside it, or even near the very end).
When I went to seat it into the compressor connector, it even formed a small "bead" to let me know I did it right.
Overkill probably but I just wanted to be sure...
I can raise mine to full height from slammed in about 10-12 seconds.
Once I get mine to the height I want, adding air to increase rebound takes even less..
As far as having the compressor run too long, I believe that's the main reason why J.D. changed to momentary switches from the old "stay on" variety...
Even then if you held the switch too long, I think you'd probably run the risk of burning up the compressor before any other damage.
That thing can get hot in even normal use, that's why you have the finned aluminum "heat sink" cover on the compressor.
The shock body itself seems to be damn near indestructible...
Bottom line is, the SS is plenty strong enough for two-up, you should be able to dial it in for a Cadillac ride even fully loaded.
Certainly, there's NO WAY you should be bottoming out - unless you're intentionally running lowered or slammed.
the wife would like to air it down to move it around in parking lots,
but she would like to air it up to ride (a good friend of hers did a low-side face plant because her bike was lowered too far)
so...can she raise & lower the SS from a handlebar switch, without moving her hand from the clutch? ( I am thinking pulling up to a stop light, she can drop it ~2 seconds to put her feet down, and then bump it up 2 seconds in twisty sections)
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Once we had that conversation I have not had any issue. The time to fill compression was my messing with rebound all the time. I just needed to firm up the compression after adding rebound.
I did have a switch issue with my compression side. I realized that I was hitting the switch and getting intermittent contact. JD sent me a new switch via express and life is good now. I set the compression, lower it a bit with rebound and then add a bit more compression and it rides perfect all day. I'm really happy with the results. For my bumpy New England roads this shock makes a Softail ride like a FLH. I ride with it up and a touch of rebound for bump absorption and then drop it by dumping compression when I pull into the parking lot. No issues with the shock or air leaks, it's bullet proof.
04ctd - I do like the idea of push buttons on the bar.
the wife would like to air it down to move it around in parking lots,
but she would like to air it up to ride (a good friend of hers did a low-side face plant because her bike was lowered too far)
so...can she raise & lower the SS from a handlebar switch, without moving her hand from the clutch? ( I am thinking pulling up to a stop light, she can drop it ~2 seconds to put her feet down, and then bump it up 2 seconds in twisty sections)
I've seen them mounted in consoles and even micro-buttons integrated into the existing handlebar switch housings.
..or, H-D makes an auxiliary handlebar mount switch kit:
Auxiliary Accessory Switch Housing Kit-70248-02B
..and here's a thread here with some other ideas:
Need ideas on mounting shotgun shock switches on controls
If you want to maintain total control over all the SS functions, you'll still need the two momentary single-pole, double-throw (SPDT) electrical switches – meaning that each controls a single function (or circuit) but it flips in two directions.
Momentary means that when you let go they spring-return back to center (off).
Last edited by jam436; Apr 13, 2014 at 11:37 AM.




