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Hey anyone that has done a handlebar swap...Ive got an issue, Ive had the bars stripped twice now...on the throttle side anyway....after reinstalling everything, I have 0 throttle...bike fires right up....check engine light, and the cruise light is on, all accessories work....I tore it back down and cut out the green plug and carefully spliced back together,I know the wires are oriented correctly, I quadruple checked, everything is soldered, shrinkwrapped, still nothing....I've done handlebars before but not with the TBW, also...I am showing no codes, when I enter DTS it says it is not available, and no prior codes....it's a 14 FLHTK, with less than 1k on the clock....Vindikta bars....any help appreciated!
I can't be of help, but I have the same bike and plan on putting 14" vindikta apes on mine this winter so I'll be following. Hope you get it figured out quick.
I did a bar swap on my 14 sg. It was a huge pain in the ***. LilWick is right in that the sensors are very sensitive to resistance. In the end, I bought the CVO TBW. It does away with the stupid green connector all together. The one thing I did notice when I purchased the CVO TBW, the pins were wrong. they were supposed to be male or female (I can't remember off the top of my head) but they needed to be the other connector. An easy fix, but expect the same result. It was frustrating, but in the end a much nicer ride.
I just did this 3 days ago on a '14 street glide with paul yaffe monkey bars. I destroyed the green plug trying to push/pull through the bars along with the switch harness. I cut the green and black plug off as close as possibly to the plug and soldered and shrink wrapped everything. No issues at all. Same throttle response as before. I read on this forum multiple people saying that it can't be done but that theory I proved wrong. If I was going to wire these bars again on another bike, cutting the connectors off is the first thing I would do. Makes life a hell of a lot easier
I just did this 3 days ago on a '14 street glide with paul yaffe monkey bars. I destroyed the green plug trying to push/pull through the bars along with the switch harness. I cut the green and black plug off as close as possibly to the plug and soldered and shrink wrapped everything. No issues at all. Same throttle response as before. I read on this forum multiple people saying that it can't be done but that theory I proved wrong. If I was going to wire these bars again on another bike, cutting the connectors off is the first thing I would do. Makes life a hell of a lot easier
I have done the same....I know my solder joints are good, i was very meticulous...wires went through easily using a chain...still no go...If I buy a new twist grip i should be able to test it without installing it in the bars shouldn't I?
I'm sorry to hear about these troubles your'e having. I hope you get it figured out quickly. I'd seriously consider getting the CVO TBW set up just to eliminate the green plug.
How are people extending the heated grip wires. If I'm not mistaken, they are not covered in the NAMZ extensions.
I cut and soldered the tbw with no issues if u don't want to cut them go to the auto parts and fine the female equivalent to the molex pins and go that route.. Well in the future I guess since u already did the job.. I didn't have any issues with mine at all.. Maybe one of the wires got cut up during the install.. If u didn't debur the holes that could have happened
You could ohm each wire from the access point under the switch housing to the plug beneath the radio to make certain there are no cut wires. Poking a needle hole in each wire to ohm them isn't going to hurt anything, that way you don't have to pull your connections back out. This will tell you everything you need to know
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