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Depending on how good your base map is would determine how much I would run the auto tune. I ran mine for a few hundred miles varying my riding style from everything to riding in traffic to giving it hell up a mountain..
I am going to try the auto tune next weekend. Do you have to have it connected via blue tooth the whole time? I'm running v&h dresser duals with cfr knockoff's & the map that they suggested I use doesn't seem like it's very optimal as I'm getting a strong exhaust smell. Don't know whether it's too rich or just that they're so much more open than the stock exhaust & it's putting out more exhaust gas. It was idling pretty rough after I flashed the map, but after I rode it for a while, the next time I fired it up it idled fine.
How populated should we do the map? I've done about 150 miles on this one.
I update the map every time it shows corrections & then I just keep updating that map. When you flash it, it will apply the new values & reset the learned table for the next set of adjustments. This way instead of running a bad map for a long time, your map continually gets better with each ride.
$.02
Originally Posted by highwayman1224
I am going to try the auto tune next weekend. Do you have to have it connected via blue tooth the whole time?.
No, just have it plugged in. Connect via Bluetooth only when when you want to see what the new learned values are & when you apply them or if you want to watch the live monitoring of certain pentameters. You will get a flashing red light on the dash while running auto-tune which is normal.
HTH
Last edited by Felix 808; Nov 3, 2014 at 10:43 PM.
I update the map every time it shows corrections & then I just keep updating that map. When you flash it, it will apply the new values & reset the learned table for the next set of adjustments. This way instead of running a bad map for a long time, your map continually gets better with each ride.
$.02
No, just have it plugged in. Connect via Bluetooth only when when you want to see what the new learned values are & when you apply them or if you want to watch the live monitoring of certain pentameters. You will get a flashing red light on the dash while running auto-tune which is normal.
By chance, I was reading up on Auto Tune this morning. Here's the info from the V&H web site.
AutoTune does NOT have the ability to tune for High-Performance camshafts at this time.
How it works:
To understand how AutoTune works, the differences between calibrating a bike's ECM and tuning a motorcycle must be defined. The ECM knows what volume of air is flowing through the engine for the stock intake and exhaust systems. However, when the intake and/or exhaust systems change, the Volumetric Efficiency of the cylinders change. AutoTune properly calibrates the Volumetric Efficiency Tables by utilizing the high precision range of the the factory narrowband O2 sensors to target the optimum Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) of 14.4. When the bike is in AutoTune mode it monitors the difference of the O2 voltages above or below the 14.4 desired AFR. These differences are recored, calculated and VE tables change. After calibration the FP3 can change the AFR. For example, richer AFR can be selected for better power and engine running, or a leaner AFR in some areas during light loads and cruising for fuel economy.
While running AutoTune, FP3 is calculating VE Table/tables and other aspects of the ECM settings. Which comprise the tuning of the motorcycle. These changes are saved and not made in real time. Volumetric Efficiency ables are modified AFTER "Apply Learned Values" or "Finish" has been selected. Then flash the calibrated map to the ECM.
How to Use It:
For better AutoTune results, the wider variety of riding conditions experienced populate more cells in the AutoTune tables. FP3 will populate the cells where you ride, fine tuning your map by calibrating the cells most frequently used. This can usually be accomplished in three 20-30 minute rides depending on the conditions in which the vehicle is ridden. When the vehicle is stopped and shutdown, the FP3 will suspend data acquisition and pick up where it left off on the next session.
Before starting an AutoTune Session, make sure you do the following. First, the FP3 must be plugged into the bike during the AutoTune process. After initialization, the phone and application do not have to be connected or running. Second, the bike reaches normal operating temperatures, otherwise data will not be collected. During the AutoTune process the Accel Enrichment and Decel Enleanment will be shutoff to avoid erroneous readings. The overall riding experience is not optimized. This DOES NOT reflect the way the bike will run after the AutoTune tables have been populated with the learned values. This is only a temporary condition.
Recommendations for better AutoTune Results
⋅ Safely ride the motorcycle with smooth throttle actuation through various RPM and throttle positions.n
⋅ Avoid abrupt throttle changes so the FP3 can adequately sample each cell.
⋅ It is not recommended to use the Cruise Control during AutoTune as this only populates a small region of the map.
⋅ The AutoTune grid will indicate what areas have been sampled, White indicates no data has been taken, orange indicates some data has been collected, and areas that have been completed are green.
⋅ Some areas are unlikely to be sampled in real world riding, such as very high throttle openings at low RPM. A typical set of good data will resemble a football shape of green cells.
After the VE Tables have been calibrated and saved to the map, the AFR tables can tailored to individual rider preference or better developed by dyno pros. The AFR tables of a Vance & Hines map have been set to a custom blend offering a combination of WOT performance and part throttle economy.
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