I realize there is virtually no interest in this thread but nonetheless I will finish it off with the last piece of the puzzle.

I bought an inexpensive throat/forehead mic and could not be more pleased with it's performance. I have it plugged into my FM transmitter which is set at max volume.

I modified the throat mic a bit (removed one transponder as well as the PTT/Vox switches) so that it is always on (if the FM transmitter is on). In it's original configuration the output was distorted so badly that it was difficult to understand what I was saying.

Now people have no idea that I am talking from my bike no matter what speed I am riding at (tested up to 75 mph).

I won't even be wearing the mic most of the time as I was mainly interested in listening to my stereo bluetooth headphones, but now at least I have the option.

 

Subscribed to this thread.


Could you post all the parts you used and where to get them (links)?

 

I did not have links to parts but hope this helps.

Parts list
a) 7 pin to 3.5mm (1/8”) adapter with 1 jack for audio and 1 jack for mic eBay item #111596934907 $25
b) Bluetooth transmitter Amazon or eBay $25 (I bought TaoTronics TT-BA01)
(if you get one which will operate while charging you could get a USB hub or a 12V USB adapter to plug into cigarette lighter socket) $10
c) battery operated wireless FM microphone with transmitter, microphone(s) and receiver $15 Amazon or eBay (I bought Bolun WM-603)
d) HD cable to gas tank console part# 69200127 $60 (optional)
e) 2 x 6 foot 3.5mm m/f audio extension cables $12 (5’ cables would suffice)
f) 6.3mm female to 3.5mm male adapter $5 (1/4” female to 1/8” male)
g) throat mic with 3.5mm male plug (1/8") $25 Amazon or eBay
h) 6 feet of ź” plastic cable protector $8
i) 6 or 8 zip ties
j) electrician’s tape
k) rubber or plastic grommet to fit hole you drill in the rear of glove box

Installation on 2014 FLHTK
You will need to remove the seat, gas tank console, gas tank and outer fairing so having a manual is essential for the torque settings when resassembling.

I drilled a 3/8” hole in the rear of the glove box and passed through the male ends of the audio cables (e), one at a time. I left enough wire length so that they both extend just beyond the glove box door. I put the extension cables inside of ź” cable protector (h) before I tie-wrapped it in several spots along the frame under gas tank. Hint:Mark both ends of one cable so you can identify it as left or right.

Unplug original cable to gas tank console port and plug in replacement (d) and coil up under seat or optionally unscrew weather cap and pull original cable back to under seat and then reattach weather cap using your ingenuity. Plug in adapter (a) to 7 pin and then cables from glove box (e) into adapter (a). I secured my connections with zip ties and electricians tape. In the glove box I plugged the BT transmitter (b) into the left audio cable and the FM receiver (c) into adapter (f) which I put in the right audio cable.

 

Thank you!!

 

No problem HogPilot54. I hope it helped, or at least gave you a few ideas towards your own solution. Sorry for the late acknowledgement.

 

Thanks for posting this up.