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While those fork caps look accessible in the above pic's they are not. The bars are right over the center of them , maybe an inch gap , no way the hex socket will even fit under them.
So I moved the fairing , rocked it forward out of the way , to clear the bars to be removed , but not before I pulled my R heated grip to move the power wire from 8:00 to 6:00 ,the throttle boss on Avons is screwed on from inside the grip so I adjusted that to a useful position , it's only been bugging 3 years now ! !
Now it's a clear shot , loosen the top pinch bolt 1st ( seen in the 1st pic just to the right and below the tape ) then just break torque on the cap and turn back lightly.
Another way to access the fork cap is lower the fork tube down in the triple tree, tighten it down with the lower pinch bolts then break the cap loose.
Once the cap is off you can dump the oil out of the top , along with the spacer & spring be ready for it ha ha ha . Remove the damper bolt then tip your fork over and remove the damper and top out spring.
I'm replacing my bushings and seals , most likely if you havn't changed fork oil in the last 10K you should plan on doing the same , new seals at a minimum. Remove the retaining clip, refer to the service manual or there are many video's including Howards site if your not sure how to do this. After the clip is out you can hammer the fork leg out , remove the seal , washer , and bushings.
Now it's time to thoroughly clean and inspect the fork tubes and sliders , the only OEM internal part I'm reusing is the lower stop ( 1st pic silver piece farthest right ) , plus the damper bolt & seal. I bought some kerosene because mineral spirits are a bit over powering , and brake clean , I use it for lots of other things too . It's going to do the bulk of the cleaning work on the forks also.
Imagine cleaning your 12GA , pushing a cleaner soaked rag through the fork tubes to get the inside clean , followed by a dry clean rag.
Last edited by Stopit; Apr 2, 2018 at 11:37 PM.
Reason: added text
With the fork tube clean I test fitted the cartridge and found the cartridge body would not go through the fork tube. I thought this wasn't far enough so I gave Howard a call , emailed him some pic's and he agreed.
The cartridge body is slightly too big to pass through the fork tube valving and will need to be removed.
You can put the tube on a lath , take it to a machine shop and have it done or as I did get a flapper disc for my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder and carefully grind the lip off the end of the fork tube that retains the valve assembly. Looking closly at the end you can see it rolled over , just that thickness needs to be removed , be careful as you can go too far pretty fast.
Before you do this give Howard a call and make sure this is how you should proceed , just because I needed to doesn't mean your situation will be the same , you can't un-grind it.
I used a file and sander to clean up the rough edges then re-cleaned the fork tube to remove all the fine debris , last thing you want in your new cartridges.
Last pick is what I punched out of my fork , and this is where I'm at currently.
Another way to access the fork cap is lower the fork tube down in the triple tree, tighten it down with the lower pinch bolts then break the cap loose.
I also considered removing them and using an impact but just decided to go this route , not that much more time / work involved for me , as I mentioned maybe more work than is necessary.
Great write up, thank you. Having to grind the end off my fork tube probably means I won't be going this route. I'm not sure I trust myself to do that one...lol. I assume that all Rushmore's would have to do that?
That's probably a safe assumption, there are also the none adjustble cartridges that may not require grinding , a little less money too but still a great upgrade.
I'll have to continue to do some research on this one, and I'll give Howard a call also as I get closer to me pulling the trigger. Since I still haven't even installed the ohlins on the rear, I probably won't get to this until this winter. Maybe by then I'll feel more comfortable doing the grinding myself.
You can put the tube on a lath , take it to a machine shop and have it done or as I did get a flapper disc for my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder and carefully grind the lip off the end of the fork tube that retains the valve assembly. Looking closly at the end you can see it rolled over , just that thickness needs to be removed , be careful as you can go too far pretty fast.
Before you do this give Howard a call and make sure this is how you should proceed , just because I needed to doesn't mean your situation will be the same , you can't un-grind it.
I used a file and sander to clean up the rough edges then re-cleaned the fork tube to remove all the fine debris , last thing you want in your new cartridges.
Last pick is what I punched out of my fork , and this is where I'm at currently.
I will have to talk to Howard about your issues. Thought it was just a drop in with no machining necessary.
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