Brake Fluid Flush
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 229
Likes: 19
From: LI, NY
Buy a vacuum bleeder, and do it yourself. Just make sure you stay on top of the brake reservoirs so they don't get air in them. If that happens, you may need to go to a dealer. I have read that turning on the ignition while doing the brakes will cycle the ABS module so you get a good thorough flush. EASY PEEZY.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 213
Likes: 40
From: Caledon East, Canada
"Part of what happened to me is because the clutch slave is behind the cat, and that cat got hot as hell that day. So one way to rid the problem is to do away with the head pipe for one without a cat."
I had the same problem,clutch went out while climbing Pikes Peak coming into a switchback. After the pucker was gone,pulling the clutch in and out three or four times in quick succession got my clutch back. After that first time, before coming into a switchback where I might possible have to clutch for a downshift, I just pulled clutch in & out quickly, never had a problem after that. Upon inspection, the clutch line is relatively close to the Vance and Hines Power Dual header (no cat) in combination with slower speed, the clutch line got heat soaked.
As a side note, my bike got both the brake and clutch fluid changed while at the dealer for winter storage.
Jerry
I had the same problem,clutch went out while climbing Pikes Peak coming into a switchback. After the pucker was gone,pulling the clutch in and out three or four times in quick succession got my clutch back. After that first time, before coming into a switchback where I might possible have to clutch for a downshift, I just pulled clutch in & out quickly, never had a problem after that. Upon inspection, the clutch line is relatively close to the Vance and Hines Power Dual header (no cat) in combination with slower speed, the clutch line got heat soaked.
As a side note, my bike got both the brake and clutch fluid changed while at the dealer for winter storage.
Jerry
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 320
From: Vancouver, WA
Buy a vacuum bleeder, and do it yourself. Just make sure you stay on top of the brake reservoirs so they don't get air in them. If that happens, you may need to go to a dealer. I have read that turning on the ignition while doing the brakes will cycle the ABS module so you get a good thorough flush. EASY PEEZY.
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 246
Likes: 28
From: Denver Colorado
I don't believe this is entirely correct. If you can add fluid to a master cylinder and suck it out of a bleeder valve in the caliper, then isn't that cycling fluid out?
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,937
Likes: 320
From: Vancouver, WA
It replaces the fluid from the master to the caliper but not through to the ABS. That fluid sits there until ABS is activated. I did mine and then took a ride and locked the brakes a few times and activated it that way but not a real good idea.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 10,068
Likes: 5,320
Originally Posted by '14 Limited
It replaces the fluid from the master to the caliper but not through to the ABS. That fluid sits there until ABS is activated. I did mine and then took a ride and locked the brakes a few times and activated it that way but not a real good idea.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,271
Likes: 246
From: Columbia SC
I learned my lesson about the wet boiling temp of dot4 (311F). I had replaced the brake fluid in the brakes and clutch just as the book called for, then a few months found myself in the Rocky Mountains stuck behind an RV that wouldn't go faster than 30 mph on the Million Dollar Highway. ...
Coming back from Looking Glass Falls (if I remember correctly) steep mountain roads heading back to our motel, both up and down, once in a while using my rear brake to stabilize going around bends, got to the top of the mountain, heading down, rear brake petal went down to the floor, no rear brake, steep mountain, no place to stop on the side, wife on back, was thinking to myself I have to keep my cool, keep her safe.
It must have been the longest 8 - 10 minutes or so of my life wanting to make it down to the bottom of the mountain, with only the front brake and using engine braking, not knowing what was wrong and if the front brakes would go out too!
Once I made it, thought to myself, ok, we are safe now but now the vacation will be screwed up trying to figure it out. Well, another 15 minutes or less went by, rear brake started working again, thats when I learned about moisture in the brake fluid reaching the boiling point, creating vapor lock and that almost EVERY single manufacture REQUIRES brake fluid flush every two years.
One other misconception that I preach in this forum ALL the time is you DO NOT have to activate the ABS system to do a proper flush, just flush the brake fluid for gods sakes. We make such a big deal out of a couple minute operation! Its even in the HD shop manual! NO BIG DEAL! *L* NO ACTIVATING THE ABS SYSTEM.
Activating the ABS system is for when air is introduced into the system.
Last edited by alarmdoug; Apr 26, 2019 at 06:07 AM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 23,001
Likes: 11,441
NO and not doing it right is what cause issue with the ABS. The ABS mus be cycled many times and with out the equipment you can not do it. There is a a company that offers an App they claim will do it ?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 10,068
Likes: 5,320
Originally Posted by smitty901
NO and not doing it right is what cause issue with the ABS. The ABS mus be cycled many times and with out the equipment you can not do it. There is a a company that offers an App they claim will do it ?
The 2014 Touring Service Manual in Section 1.17 (page 1-40) titled BRAKE FLUID REPLACEMENT gives the specific procedures to follow for (replacement) flushing the brake fluid. Nowhere does it say the fluid has to be flushed using the DT II or any other aftermarket device except if air is introduced in the system when performing this procedure.