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Just a data point for estimating how often brake fluid should be replaced. The bike is a 2014 Electra Glide Police.
I replaced the front and rear brake fluid on my police bike today. The old fluid was not real dark colored; more like a medium amber color after 5 years 36,000 miles in service. This bike has probably been out in the rain during its lifetime.
New hydraulic fluid reservoir cover gaskets (Drag Specialties) were installed. During brake reservoir cover removals, the as-found cover screw torque was pretty low because the cover screws had not been overtightened (unlike the clutch reservoir cover screws which were gorilla-tight; causing leakage).
The clutch fluid was replaced last month and it was dark charcoal colored.
The main concern is the moisture content in the fluid. Most indy's can do a quick check for you with a dip sensor. A Harley shop will need to check your bike in for a week or so then charge you no less than one man hour to do the same thing.
I would change it when you can i use to change my every two years or so but on the new bikes 16s and up you must take it a dealer for a brake flush they have installed new sensors in the system and Harley Davison must reset them after a flush. This is bullshit and i am sick and tired of HD being so dam proprietary with there stuff i always did my own brake flush for years cant do it anymore not going to buy any more equipment to do a simple flush. HD lost me getting ready to sell my Harley and get on a real motorcycle again been with HD for 4 years now and do not like them hate the way they ride cant get used to them there crap in my book.
2017 RGS with ABS. I flushed from the reservoirs to the calipers with a vacuum bleeder like I do with everything else - except my complicated as hell Honda ST300 with linked brakes and a secondary master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc, etc.
I would change it when you can i use to change my every two years or so but on the new bikes 16s and up you must take it a dealer for a brake flush they have installed new sensors in the system and Harley Davison must reset them after a flush. This is bullshit and i am sick and tired of HD being so dam proprietary with there stuff i always did my own brake flush for years cant do it anymore not going to buy any more equipment to do a simple flush. HD lost me getting ready to sell my Harley and get on a real motorcycle again been with HD for 4 years now and do not like them hate the way they ride cant get used to them there crap in my book.
I've never heard of "new sensors" having to be installed. What sensors? My 2014 Service Manual in Section 1.17 (page 1-40) titled BRAKE FLUID REPLACEMENT gives the specific procedures to follow for (replacement) flushing the brake fluid on my ABS '14 Limited. Nowhere does it say anything about installing "sensors" or resetting anything when performing this procedure. Additionally, nowhere does it say the fluid has to be flushed using the DT II except if air is introduced in the system when performing this procedure. I won't comment on the last part of your post except to say sell the damn thing if you hate it so much.
I learned my lesson about the wet boiling temp of dot4 (311F). I had replaced the brake fluid in the brakes and clutch just as the book called for, then a few months found myself in the Rocky Mountains stuck behind an RV that wouldn't go faster than 30 mph on the Million Dollar Highway. This meant staying in first gear for a long time because it was too steep to lug in second gear. The bike (2014 Limited) got ugly hot and as a result my clutch fluid vapor locked, aka, I had no clutch. I'm just gonna say nicely that it sucked a$$, especially with a lockup clutch, so no speed shifting. I survived to ride another day.
When I got home I found that Castrol makes a dot4 that has a wet boil temp of 518 degrees. I replaced all dot4 with this stuff and haven't had the issue again. Part of what happened to me is because the clutch slave is behind the cat, and that cat got hot as hell that day. So one way to rid the problem is to do away with the head pipe for one without a cat. At the time I didn't wish to risk any warranty questions. Soon enough I will be taking care of that, lol.
It's expensive, but 1 liter is all I needed for the brakes and clutch.
I learned my lesson about the wet boiling temp of dot4 (311F). I had replaced the brake fluid in the brakes and clutch just as the book called for, then a few months found myself in the Rocky Mountains stuck behind an RV that wouldn't go faster than 30 mph on the Million Dollar Highway. This meant staying in first gear for a long time because it was too steep to lug in second gear. The bike (2014 Limited) got ugly hot and as a result my clutch fluid vapor locked, aka, I had no clutch. I'm just gonna say nicely that it sucked a$$, especially with a lockup clutch, so no speed shifting. I survived to ride another day.
When I got home I found that Castrol makes a dot4 that has a wet boil temp of 518 degrees. I replaced all dot4 with this stuff and haven't had the issue again. Part of what happened to me is because the clutch slave is behind the cat, and that cat got hot as hell that day. So one way to rid the problem is to do away with the head pipe for one without a cat. At the time I didn't wish to risk any warranty questions. Soon enough I will be taking care of that, lol.
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