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No actually. I had felt a slight wobble so i had tires replaced last year because they were original tires. I initially thought out of balance/bad tire. A tech at the dealer test rode it and said that at 18,000 miles the steering head probably loose. I did the swing back test and verified it was a little loose, but finished out the season without doing the maintenance. Now im at 21000 and doing the service, weather starting to get nice, be riding every day very soon.
I see in one of your previous threads that you had Michelin Commander 3s installed. Some people had vibration issues with those tires. I wonder if that might be part of the slight wobble you feel?
20587180]I see in one of your previous threads that you had Michelin Commander 3s installed. Some people had vibration issues with those tires. I wonder if that might be part of the slight wobble you feel?
maybe, but for myself I had a bad wobble on sweeper corners and I have C3 tire. Repacking the steering head bearings and properly doing the swing test and adjustment got rid of the wobble. I’ve always heard C3 causes vibration, not wobble.
My dealer says they recommend performing a swing test every 10k miles just to make sure it’s not getting sloppy. They know I do all my own maintenance, they aren’t just trying to sell me service.
The grease disappears over time (for me, 25k miles it was nearly dry) and that changes the bearing fit slightly inside the steering head. That little bit is enough to induce a wobble, and enough to start causing metal on metal contact between the bearing and the cup. You want to avoid replacing those unless you want to double the amount of work you gotta do.
I will be performing a swing test every 10k miles because it’s easy enough to check. If it’s a little loose, then the little work to tighten it makes riding more comfortable.
Last edited by BrandonSmith; Apr 30, 2022 at 08:59 AM.
Yes, that is exactly what I did (tilted fairing). Heres the link to my thread I made. In the first post, there are PDF documents that I compiled that go step-by-step using the service manual. Just follow the highlighted steps to complete the job. I compiled it this way so I didnt have to go flipping back and forth through the manual with greasy hands and sweat running all over the place!
The manual does not mention tilting the fairing but that is the only way I could get to the pinch bolt. It took considerably less time to tilt the fairing than it did to attempt to find a way of getting the tool underneath all that mess.
OP..... For your reference, here's a pic I had of the fairing tilted forward, as BrandonSmith suggested.
I was doing a bar swap on my 2016 Ultra Classic.... It gives great access to the handlebar clamp, but at the time, I didn't notice how well you could get to the pinch bolt...
It's pretty easy to just tilt the fairing forward...
please be sure to tighten the riser bolts, they always loosen up over time
use a 1/2 drive 19mm/3/4in 6 pt socket - I do not have a torque number - properly tight
please be sure to tighten the riser bolts, they always loosen up over time
use a 1/2 drive 19mm/3/4in 6 pt socket - I do not have a torque number - properly tight
Those tires were replaced on michelins dime with dunlop american elites. They didnt want to pay for competitors tires but thats all that was available.
well i finally finished the majority of items on the 20k service checklist. still need to change fork oil and flush brakes and clutch juices. that pinch bolt was a 5 star pain in the *** to get to!
thanks to all who chipped in ideas and helpful tips!!!! believe me it is NOT unappreciated!
world class riders here!
well i finally finished the majority of items on the 20k service checklist. still need to change fork oil and flush brakes and clutch juices. that pinch bolt was a 5 star pain in the *** to get to!
thanks to all who chipped in ideas and helpful tips!!!! believe me it is NOT unappreciated!
world class riders here!
Glad you got it done! You'll have to fill us in on how you got access to that bolt!
i tried cutting down an allen wrench but was still having issues getting it into the bolt. i ended up breaking off the left side plastic keeper tab for the plug it holds and viola! no more problems getting an allen wrench in the bolt. the harness plug was then wire tied to remaining keeper tab although it really cant go anywhere without being secured. the tab im speaking of is molded as part of the plastic tray under the radio. without the tab in the way you have plenty of room to get a wrench in there. i didnt think to take a picture before input everything back together.
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