Oil missing the J&S Oil Pan when on jack

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May 20, 2014 | 08:51 PM

Hozzie

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From: Middle TN

Oil missing the J&S Oil Pan when on jack

Hi Everyone,

I just changed my oil for the first time using my new J&S jack. I bought the oil pan with it and thought that would make a huge difference. I had the exact opposite experience and I am trying to figure out if I completely screwed up the setup of it or if anyone else has experienced this issue.

It was too late to call J&S so I figured I would post here and ask.

Basically, I had the bike jacked up and I put the oil pan on the jack so that it tilted down and out towards the kickstand side of the bike (I think this is how it goes) with my oil catch container under the pan. When I pull the oil drain plug, the oil basically shot out past the pan and all over my driveway until it slowed enough to hit the pan. I did have the oil filler cap off so I figure that could make a difference by allowing it to flow more freely, but needless to say, I had a mess. My bike was as far back on the jack as it could go so I don't think that could be it.

Anyone else experience this or am I just an idiot. Full disclosure, I threw away the directions for the oil pan with my jack box, so I may have just not followed the directions.

May 21, 2014 | 12:52 PM

spider14043

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You really don't need to put the bike on a jack to change the fluids.

May 21, 2014 | 12:57 PM

68 XLCH

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From: East Coast

Haven't changed the oil on this one, but i did review a You tube on maintenance, changing oil and all the guy did was remove the engine drain plug, as normal for any vehicle. Check you tube, i am not familiar with your setup.

May 21, 2014 | 02:38 PM

oakmossy

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From: dallas

troll alert

May 21, 2014 | 02:55 PM

Hozzie

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From: Middle TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by oakmossy

troll alert

Not even close, but thanks for the worry. I have a new Harley SGS (608 miles now) and did a change at 300 just using the low profile harley oil pan and I bought the J&S jack based on the good things said here. I like the jack, no issues there, I truly just didn't know if it was just me or if someone else had this issue.

If I have an issue with a company, I will flat out say it. I have nothing bad to say about J&S, I am just trying to figure out if it is just me, but I have the oil spot on my driveway to prove it if it would make you feel better.

I am not a novice at working on things, this is a legitimate question. I can weld a piece of metal to one side of it for the oil to hit if I want to change the oil on the jack, but before I go welding things, I wanted to ask.

I can do it on the ground as spider says, I just prefer not to have to lie on the ground if I don't need to.

Last edited by Hozzie; May 21, 2014 at 02:57 PM.

May 21, 2014 | 03:46 PM

SecondGear

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From: pittsburgh

I have the jack & oil pan but have not used it yet. Why are you doing your second oil change with only 608 miles on the bike? Aren't you supposed to leave the bike alone until the 1k service?

May 21, 2014 | 05:34 PM

Hozzie

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From: Middle TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by SecondGear

I have the jack & oil pan but have not used it yet. Why are you doing your second oil change with only 608 miles on the bike? Aren't you supposed to leave the bike alone until the 1k service?

I think some might, but I am in the club that early oil changes are best. The most metal will come off in the first few hundred miles. I changed the oil at 300 and the magnet had small amounts of metal on it. I just changed it again at 608 and there was virtually no metal on the magnet. I prefer to not have the metal, no matter how little, circulating in my oil.

I will switch to synthetic at 1000 and then go between 2500 and 3000 miles per change. For me there is nothing easier or as cheap to take care of your engine as changing the oil. I will use Mobile 1 in the engine and Redline Primary and Redline Transmission for the synthetics. There are a million opinions on what to use and how often, but this was what I was comfortable with.