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Ok didnt know why you mentioned running lights then; my bad
you need to feed the indicator cables down as well as the controller, if you are mounting them on the handlebars like stock (I presume you have the original bars to look at)
if you are mounting them on the forks or something then you cable them directly to the connectors under the tank
the connectors under the tank are wired for indicators and running lights so you could install either 2 wire for indicator only, or 3 wire for indicator and running, was what I was on about.
this is canbus so you cant just splice into the control cables to get indicators
Thanks.
Only mentioned the running lights because as our cousins across the pond have these as standard I believe, where here in the UK we don't have/need them.
I don't have the standard bars as reference - the bike came with the 12" Apehangers already fitted and I'm reluctant to start pulling them apart.
You mention a Controller - is this the indicator relay? Is this not under the tank?
I thought if I run 2 wires down the left and 2 wires down the right of the bars these would then connect to the indicators (lhs & rhs) on each side of the bars and then directly to the Front Electrical Caddy (5 Right Turn Signal & 10 Left Turn Signal).
Typo, should have been feed the indicator cables down as well as the control cables, not controller (although there is a body control module)
Yea you got this, just run your wires from the indicators to the caddy under the tank. I got crimp pins and connector plugs off eBay when I put my Heinz LED indicators on. I got the combined indicator and running light option so ran 3 wire.
yes, just finished at the weekend there. Only awkward bit was wiggling the thing out n in, and making a ball ended 1/4 hex tool for those bolts
yes i just bought the screaming eagle 55 intake. its is 150 cheaper than the S&S. cant wait to put it in. it looks great on the inside, smooth. looks like about a 2 &1/2 hour job. and i herd how bad it is to get to a few of the bolts. at the end i hope to get the star racing 30/30 cam, and a new tune. (they) say you get apx 5 more horse power just by adding the new intake
Typo, should have been feed the indicator cables down as well as the control cables, not controller (although there is a body control module)
Yea you got this, just run your wires from the indicators to the caddy under the tank. I got crimp pins and connector plugs off eBay when I put my Heinz LED indicators on. I got the combined indicator and running light option so ran 3 wire.
Cheers....much appreciated.
All the Control Switch cables, hydraulic brake/clutch lines are already run through the bars
...I had a feeling afterwards, hence the post to confirm, that I should have run the extra wires for the indicators through at the same time.
Ah well...fun and games ahead!
Originally Posted by IBE
yes i just bought the screaming eagle 55 intake. its is 150 cheaper than the S&S. cant wait to put it in. it looks great on the inside, smooth. looks like about a 2 &1/2 hour job. and i herd how bad it is to get to a few of the bolts. at the end i hope to get the star racing 30/30 cam, and a new tune. (they) say you get apx 5 more horse power just by adding the new intake
Watching with interest and noting the procedure (those bolts!) as I also have a screaming eagle 55 intake to fit (along with a V&H Air Filter setup).
Whether or not it adds HP doesn't really matter to me - it's got to be better than the standard plastic one which, I hear, is susceptible to heat soak and cracking.
yep i have read about the plastic manifold warped very easy. not a bad price for the upgrade from harley . all i paid out the door was 202 dollars. thats with my vet discount. and they had it in stock
I have a 55mm SE Manifold in the box sitting there gathering dust. I need to order the Wood Platinum Lifters from FuelMoto, and get my bike back out on the road from the shop before I do the manifold and cam swap work.
I have a 22XE, 55mm SE Manifold, 5.5g/s Bosch Injectors, Plat Lifters, Arlen Ness Upgrade Air Filter, and Feuling ARP Pinion And Cam Bolt Kit to install.
Aiming for 115~117hp, and 125tq rear wheel.
yes i just bought the screaming eagle 55 intake. its is 150 cheaper than the S&S. cant wait to put it in. it looks great on the inside, smooth. looks like about a 2 &1/2 hour job. and i herd how bad it is to get to a few of the bolts. at the end i hope to get the star racing 30/30 cam, and a new tune. (they) say you get apx 5 more horse power just by adding the new intake
The bolts are actually quite easy really - if - you have the right tool.
What you need is a long ball-ended 1/4" imperial hex key, that you can cut/grind the L part off. Or, a long 1/4" drive socketed 1/4" hex key.
Ideally the 1/4" hex needs to be 220mm to do both sides of the flanges without needing to remove cooling hoses etc. Or, at if it's at least 55mm or so it will get to the bolts without the socket on the end rubbing against engine bits and making the angle on the bolt head worse, from that you can make up the rest of the length with your 1/4" socket set extension bars, just make sure your extension bars are 1/4" not 3/8 or 1/2" (pic of mine attached)
The other awkward bit was (without stripping down the engine a bit) was wiggling the manifold out - I disconnected it all, then had to take the whole fuel rail and injectors off to be able to wiggle it out the right hand side of the bike.
PS I did get new intake flange seals as the book recommends, just for peace of mind.
I did a couple things to my FB this week. The security light was coming on, cruise control not working, and throwing a code that said "front brake switch open". At first I thought I screwed something up installing the cruise control a couple weeks ago. I took apart the left handlebar control, checked the wires, and checked the plug in under the tank. All was good.
I bought a new brake switch, and soldered it in on the right control. No more light or problem, all is well with about 300 miles on it.
I installed a new tire on the back, a Dunlop AE. It had a Metz 888, got 9K miles on it, I should have changed it earlier, it was real thin. I do it myself with spoons, and Motion Pro hand bead breaker. I really worked up a sweat, then a static balance. 20,600 miles total on the FB.
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