2018+ Softail Models Breakout

Extending handle bar wiring

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Old May 2, 2019 | 06:53 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by felix27
My local dealer says they only have 10” extensions.
I guess having that much extra length won’t be an issue.
Plenty of room to tuck the extra up the spine of the bike.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2019 | 06:46 PM
  #12  
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Old thread, but I am going to put 6inch pull back risers on a Sport Glide and read where others did not have to extend wires only brake and clutch. Anyone current on this ?
 
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Old Nov 27, 2019 | 07:36 PM
  #13  
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I used the 6” risers and changed to narrow beach bars. Electrical wires are a little tight when turning all the way to right. Front brake cable changed to heritage cable. If you don’t change the bars you’re probably ok. You can pull some slack out of the rubber boot. Raise the front of the gas tank for easier access.
good luck.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 07:04 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Mchad
This.

Canbus HD controls are effectively data transmitting circuits. They are very sensitive to resistance. You can walk into any dealer and buy plug and play cable extensions, or order aftermarket like NAMZ online, NEVER solder canbus wires.
How does soldering the wires create more resistance than adding two more connections in the same wire? I am all for plug and play stuff, but to say NEVER solder the wires is a little silly. With that said, I have soldered a few canbus wires on a few different bikes with zero issue. I have also used plug and play harnesses when available just for ease of use.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 07:17 AM
  #15  
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An extension kit can bundle all the splices at the same place, id rather stagger . Just a thought to chew on if going that route. And they can even end up at the steering neck. Hmmmmmmm
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 07:35 AM
  #16  
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+1 Namz
 
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Old Nov 28, 2019 | 01:20 PM
  #17  
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Standard CAN bus 2.0 can operate up to 1MHz and uses a 120 ohm terminated differential wire pair. As long as you don't do anything crazy with the soldering I think it would be ok resistance wise. The bit about soldering is that does create a weak point where the solder ends at the wire which could eventually break with excessive vibration (wire flexes more there) unless good tubing or heat shrink is used to apply some strain relief at that point - yes I learned this from the internet - take it or leave it . I considered doing this but decided against it and just used the extensions which really makes the install a lot easier. A con is that 10" inches ends up being too much depending on the bar height which bunches up under the triple tree which makes getting the faring off and on a pain.

 
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