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I used these. The diameter is a little small so I had to wrap electrical tape around them to tighten them up. Be careful to get the tape on even so it wont be lopsided. Worked great and a lot less money than the Harley ones. Measure from the center of the swingarm pivot bolt. I used bolts that I marked center on with a punch in the pivot bolt, also worked great.
This is assuming that your LR has the same size axle and swingarm pivot bolt as the Heritage.
Last edited by sandrooney; Jun 13, 2020 at 05:50 AM.
Thanks, I did and that's probably the route I'll go. Your solution is simple and looks nice. The other thought was to get the HD plugs and tool as was also posted.
Also, as an FYI, I have a swing arm bag on the left side with more in it than is necessary. I'm going to take it off this morning and see if that makes a difference.
Very cool method that I will try next. My only concern is if the square tubing would truly be a straight edge, especially spanning the length of 8'? I just tried the string method on mine and it was maddening (admittedly, I am a perfectionist). The key is to get equal tension on the string and move inward to the bike's centerline slowly to where it JUST contacts the leading edges of both sides the rear tire. I would be curious (just for the sake of science ) to see how your Heritage's rear axle now measures relative to your swingarm pivot (using the service manual's method).
Originally Posted by Hulkss
I had a sensation when riding a straight level road, that the tracking on my bike was off causing a slight pull to one side. The bike would always drift slightly left if I sat straight and centered and applied no input to the handlebars. I was also getting a slight belt squeek when coasting at 20-30 mph. Trying to align the rear axle to the swing arm pivot on a Heritage is a big pain-in-the-*** and not very accurate. The position of the axle adjusters is not meaningful due to manufacturing tolerances.
The best functional alignment is when the thrust vector from the rear wheel passes through the center of the contact patch of the front tire on the road.
I set-up a simple alignment test using two pieces of 8' long 1" square aluminum tubing (purchased at a local home store). I put the bike on a lift and clamped the tubes to the rear tire. I added pieces of 1" angle over the tubing where I was clamping for added stiffness. I clamped it just hard enough so the clamp in the photos below would not fall off (keep the clamp jaws parallel). Then I went up front and gently lifted on the tubing to relieve any friction where they were setting on the support. I measured to make sure the tubes were parallel to each other to make sure they were properly clamped against the rear tire.
Next, just turn the front end so the tire is parallel to the aluminum bars. It should then be in the center of the two bars. Initially, my front tire was almost touching a tube on one side and I had a one inch gap on the other side. It took only a small adjustmet of the rear axle position screws to correct this seemingly large error. I unclamped, rotated the rear tire, and reclamped the bars in a new location. The set-up repeated very well showing the same results up front.
When done, be sure to check your belt tension per the manual.
The bike now tracks perfectly, handling in curves feels better, and the belt squeak is gone too.
Very cool method that I will try next. My only concern is if the square tubing would truly be a straight edge, especially spanning the length of 8'? I just tried the string method on mine and it was maddening (admittedly, I am a perfectionist). The key is to get equal tension on the string and move inward to the bike's centerline slowly to where it JUST contacts the leading edges of both sides the rear tire. I would be curious (just for the sake of science ) to see how your Heritage's rear axle now measures relative to your swingarm pivot (using the service manual's method).
Words of advice, don't over think it and don't worry too much on exact precession!
The box tube method works very well, with the box tubing being rigid, light and straight enough not to give any problems when checking and setting up, that is unless you can see it's actually bent or deformed!
Remember there are so many variables, including the tyres mounted on the rims, the bearings, the actual frame forging and forks etc. all these things mount up and make it neigh on impossible to get it exact and perfection, alignment matters but not to that sort of precession as to that you would actually notice the difference or any great effect when riding!
If the alignment is out, the above method will easily show it and be good enough to get it correct to the extent of not being an issue when riding to handling or wear.
The main reason most right side cams don't align is because people don't use anti-seize between the nut and cam as stated in the service manual. There are still issues with there being a small amount space between the cam and stop due to the cam turning even with the anti-seize. However, the wheel is in locked in place by the time the cam starts to turn as you are torquing to 100 ft lbs.
Also, do not use an extension on your torque wrench when tightening the nut. I have found it can cause the nut to be overtightened, causing squeaking when accelerating or engine breaking.
Harley did come up with a new design on the cams. The new design works much better since the angle on the cam is much less. This seems to eliminate any issues with alignment of the wheel. the new axel is sold as a kit and costs about $80-$90. Well worth the spend. The torque specs are now 135-145 ft lbs with the new axel. Don't forget to use anti-seize between the nut and cam.
One final note, V-Twins axle lock is a fraction of the price of Jims and worked great.
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