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No changes other than the AF. I gassed up at the same Chevron that I use almost exclusively. I noticed the lack of responsiveness and seemingly lower rpms both before and after I gassed the bike up. I do need to bring the bike in to have the fuel regulator re-indexed since it's venting gas at lights (and maybe when I'm running but I just can't smell it then?). Could that issue result in a lessening of responsiveness?
No changes other than the AF. I gassed up at the same Chevron that I use almost exclusively. I noticed the lack of responsiveness and seemingly lower rpms both before and after I gassed the bike up. I do need to bring the bike in to have the fuel regulator re-indexed since it's venting gas at lights (and maybe when I'm running but I just can't smell it then?). Could that issue result in a lessening of responsiveness?
The fuel regulator may be a factor as many others have swapped out air filters to higher flowing units with no change in running, but I still think the ECU might need to catch up though to run at EPA optimum , that's a small joke right there. Have the regulator seen to and then you will know and while there ask your guy about whatever you need to know. HTH.
I suspect your feeling the vibes of the solid mounted motor. I like them, but they are common to Harleys than Hondas. The bike should be happy, but you may have to adjust to the sensation. That visceral feel is part of the HD character. They tuned it out 100% with the counterbalancers, but test riders complained it was too smooth so they dialed some back in. Try a touring bike if you want to experience “smoother”...or a Twin Cam Dyna which is also rubber mounted.
I plan on calling the dealer tomorrow to inquire into changes.
The differences between the touring and softails is also something I was wondering about. I've read a lot of posts about running the touring bikes at 80-90 for long stretches, and I can't imagine doing the same on my FB, just because of that visceral feel. And I don't have a problem with it, at all, so long as I know that the bike is working properly. But at the same time, the idea of going to an RK is also poking at me. What is the difference(s) in the motor that makes the touring bikes somewhat smoother than the softails?
I plan on calling the dealer tomorrow to inquire into changes.
The differences between the touring and softails is also something I was wondering about. I've read a lot of posts about running the touring bikes at 80-90 for long stretches, and I can't imagine doing the same on my FB, just because of that visceral feel. And I don't have a problem with it, at all, so long as I know that the bike is working properly. But at the same time, the idea of going to an RK is also poking at me. What is the difference(s) in the motor that makes the touring bikes somewhat smoother than the softails?
The mounting design. Softails have a different Counter Balancing setup inside the engine as well.
For reference, the Road Glide/StreetGlide have a solid and rubber mounting design, where as the Softails are only solid mounted.
Softail frame is also shorter, stiffer, and more nimble, even on the fat boy.
You're pulling 90hp+ with 100+lbs of torque at the wheel with 100+lbs less weight, with a very solid and stablized mounted engine on a much much lighter bike.
And you have a big fatty rear tire. So it's gonna feel much more angry and ready to jump at the throttle.
The fat boy also has lower gear ratios which means it's designed to go at a faster speed than the touring bikes.
The bike is much lighter, better engine mounted, and faster by gear ratio. It's gonna feel much more angry than a touring bike.
Last edited by FranBunnyFFXII; Sep 5, 2019 at 03:45 AM.
I'm going to call the dealer today and likely set up an appt. for a Stage 1 and 2 (torque cam), installation, as well as getting the fuel regulator taken care of. And see if they'll throw in an oil change for free.
As for the stage 1, do I need to buy the cable? Does HD provide multiple maps that can be pushed to the tuner by the consumer after the shop installs everything initially?
Also, will the new cam make any difference in the sound of the bike at idle? Will it bring the motor closer to the traditional HD loping sound?
I'm going to call the dealer today and likely set up an appt. for a Stage 1 and 2 (torque cam), installation, as well as getting the fuel regulator taken care of. And see if they'll throw in an oil change for free.
As for the stage 1, do I need to buy the cable? Does HD provide multiple maps that can be pushed to the tuner by the consumer after the shop installs everything initially?
Also, will the new cam make any difference in the sound of the bike at idle? Will it bring the motor closer to the traditional HD loping sound?
Youll have to buy the Harley pro street tuner, no it doesnt come with the cables but the dealer should have a set for the shop to use. If you want to mess with it at home you will have to get the cables ($30). The tuner will be about $300 from the dealer or you can find them for about 250 online. The torque cam will give it more of the traditional sound, not as much as an aftermarket cam though.
I should have been more clear in what I said about the feel on the freeway. The bike has always felt like it's working hard there, from the day I bought it. The strange thing is that I know it's not. It's just a different visceral feel that what I'm accustomed to.
The change in responsiveness today was I think due to the AF change, as was the lower rpms at given speeds. For instance, in fourth gear at 40mph I was barely turning 2K, whereas with the stock filter I would have been between 2100 and 2200 if memory serves. I'm assuming the increase in airflow was leaning out the mixture. Does it make sense that this could cause it to "cruise" at low speeds with less rpms? And be less responsive?
The state of tune does not affect the final drive ratios. You could put a supercharger on it and while it will make a lot more power it can't magically change how the extra power can alter the gear and drive ratios, which are mechanically the same at a specific road speed unless you change one or both pulleys.
Here's my Stage II 114 (all EPA legal). There is only one map from H-D for the Stage II with torque cam. They have to have all the maps EPA certified. You can road tune it yourself. I had the dealer tune it on their Dyno and I had the H-D wideband auto tuning module installed.
The state of tune does not affect the final drive ratios. You could put a supercharger on it and while it will make a lot more power it can't magically change how the extra power can alter the gear and drive ratios, which are mechanically the same at a specific road speed unless you change one or both pulleys.
I hear what you're saying, and thanks. But I don't fully understand yet. In two otherwise identical bikes, one with a weak mill and one with a strong one, can I achieve the same speed by spinning the strong motor with less rpms than I could with the weak one? I'm not a mechanic or an engineer, just a longtime driver and rider that's been around the block several times.
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