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I just got the cost for the 1000 mile service charge on my new Heritage 114, and I have sticker shock. It's my first Harley and I'm loving it, probably babying it. I also bought some Reinhart slip-ons and I would like to tune-it after the install. I asked the shop to install the slip-ons and use the SE tuner (I want to try and stay within the warranty). My dilemma is that I certainly feel confident I could install the slip-on's and I probably can figure out the SE tuner, BUT i'm a little worried if I do the work they may not honor the warranty as opposed if they did the work themselves. Also, there is also some sense of security having "pros" do the work. Installing the slip-ons and tuning the bike my self would save approx $200.
Just looking to get some thoughts from others. I know the whole warranty issue has been beat to death, and I don't mean to bring it up again. I guess my main concern is doing the work myself instead of the shop.
I just got the cost for the 1000 mile service charge on my new Heritage 114, and I have sticker shock. It's my first Harley and I'm loving it, probably babying it. I also bought some Reinhart slip-ons and I would like to tune-it after the install. I asked the shop to install the slip-ons and use the SE tuner (I want to try and stay within the warranty). My dilemma is that I certainly feel confident I could install the slip-on's and I probably can figure out the SE tuner, BUT i'm a little worried if I do the work they may not honor the warranty as opposed if they did the work themselves. Also, there is also some sense of security having "pros" do the work. Installing the slip-ons and tuning the bike my self would save approx $200.
Just looking to get some thoughts from others. I know the whole warranty issue has been beat to death, and I don't mean to bring it up again. I guess my main concern is doing the work myself instead of the shop.
Just install the slip-ons then take it to them to tune. It will save you some labor cost and if your dealer is a good one, I'm sure they won't ding you for installing them yourself and you ensure the tune is done correctly by them to keep everything in tact with your warranty.
Flashing the tune takes about 3 minutes. Add 5 min to remove & replace the side panel. Your stock mufflers come off with 1 bolt on the clamp and two to the bracket (Each). Buy a service manual for $100, and save yourself the second hundred. It's so simple you'll laugh at yourself for considering bringing it to the dealer.
This assumes you have tools (Including a torque wrench) and the skill to use them. If no, then you have little choice.
Is there much to selecting the baseline tune? I dont know/think the Reinharts are a std baseline with the Screaming Eagle Pro Street tuner. I was going to eventually try the auto tune (where you drive around with the tuner)
If the SE tuner is anything similar to a PV then it should have a canned map for slip-ons already there for you to select and flash to the ECM. They are specific to harley slip-ons but it will most likely still be better than the stock tune.
I assume with the autotune it will adjust accordingly for your slip-ons within the set limits of the tuner after running a few tuning sessions.
Last edited by Bowhunter8607; Jan 3, 2020 at 07:27 PM.
No tune is necessary with the slip-ons as far as I know. Install is easy as I helped a buddy do his.
It really depends though on what the $200 is worth to you. I had them install mine as Im quite busy at work plus I like the peace of mind that if something did or does go wrong, they cover me. Good luck with your decision.
No tune is necessary with the slip-ons as far as I know. Install is easy as I helped a buddy do his.
It really depends though on what the $200 is worth to you. I had them install mine as I’m quite busy at work plus I like the peace of mind that if something did or does go wrong, they cover me. Good luck with your decision.
That's really for the baggers where the cat is in the head pipes. On the softails where the cats are in the mufflers you are changing more with a free flow muffler then you would on a bagger.
But as I'm not a fan of the "I don't need no 'stinking tune" mindset, naturally I'm going to say that.
That's really for the baggers where the cat is in the head pipes. On the softails where the cats are in the mufflers you are changing more with a free flow muffler then you would on a bagger.
But as I'm not a fan of the "I don't need no 'stinking tune" mindset, naturally I'm going to say that.
Hmm I would think the ECU has enough range to retune itself. I tuned because I live at 6500 feet but its pretty common not to tune with slip ons. I can not argue against your mindset so I wont try
That's really for the baggers where the cat is in the head pipes. On the softails where the cats are in the mufflers you are changing more with a free flow muffler then you would on a bagger.
But as I'm not a fan of the "I don't need no 'stinking tune" mindset, naturally I'm going to say that.
Fatbob has cats in the head pipes instead of the muffler like other models.
I agree it will be going from restricted with catted mufflers to open mufflers with less restriction from the baffle. Probably a good idea to tune it.
Last edited by Bowhunter8607; Jan 3, 2020 at 08:35 PM.
Hmm I would think the ECU has enough range to retune itself. I tuned because I live at 6500 feet but its pretty common not to tune with slip ons. I can not argue against your mindset so I wont try
I think the trim correction that you're talking about is only used in light load cruising, but when you're on the throttle under load it's back to the tables, and back to the now excessively lean conditions the free flow components without tuning will produce. At high rpm/load that's where it starts to hurt. You're probably right they tooling along at 5-10% throttle might not make a difference, but banging WOT getting on the highway leaned out due to component changes isn't going to be ideal for the motor.
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