Hard Start
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 9,324
Likes: 3,869
From: Upstate New York
Thanks, I'll do that but it seems like there's possibly a bad connection somewhere... I just don't know where to start looking past the battery connections.
When the bike was new I use to lose the setting in the clock but it happened so infrequent that I didn't give it much thought and never want to bring my bike to the dealer for service.
When the bike was new I use to lose the setting in the clock but it happened so infrequent that I didn't give it much thought and never want to bring my bike to the dealer for service.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 611
Likes: 204
From: Long Island, NY
What I think is you need to maintain your bike
17k and you have not adjusted clutch???? Adjust clutch and try again. May or may not help. I start in neutral.
Also what brand battery?
Curious, if you put charger on high does it start better?
The automatic compression release is interesting, my first bike with them. If you give bike quick start and then try again any better? I've done this to decompress bikes when hot.
17k and you have not adjusted clutch???? Adjust clutch and try again. May or may not help. I start in neutral.
Also what brand battery?
Curious, if you put charger on high does it start better?
The automatic compression release is interesting, my first bike with them. If you give bike quick start and then try again any better? I've done this to decompress bikes when hot.
My bike is meticulously maintained. My services and routine maintenance are all done as called for if not before. And it's as clean as the day it was new. But if the clutch feels the same as it did when new...why adjust it? Is there a reason other then the book say's every 10k? Or is that to just check it every 10k. I would think being a little loose for my issue is better then tight.
I just pulled the battery out, it's a Twin Power AGM battery with 310CCA. I believe that's what the bike calls for. I'm going to bring it down later and have it tested but I think it will be good.
The battery is in the middle of the bike, there's no easy way to get at it to put a charger. I have the pigtail for the trickle charger but that's not designed to take an actual 10amps from a charger.
The problem happens randomly, doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. I've tried to start and then restart the bike...again, randomly it still struggles.
The big question is....does anyone know how to test the automatic compression release? A search of the web hasn't really given me any answers.
I do appreciate your comments,
Thanks,
Steve
Last edited by Monteman1971; Sep 21, 2023 at 03:14 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,423
Likes: 30,643
From: Pennsylvania
Pay little regard to posts or posters like this, you will find that these type posts have nothing to do with the original topic intent. If you follow or read some of his other posts you will see why most on here just ignore what he says and hold him in low regard.
No need to justify your mechanical ability or anything else. You ask a question and are getting some good input for the most part (except for the above persons "I think" comments).
Make sure they give you the CCA when they test it.
You should hear them click when you turn on the ignition, however, the fuel pump noise may also mask the click. If you have a mechanics stethoscope you may be able to listen for the click by putting it on the ACR which is in the center of the head.
You may also be able to check by doing a compression test, 1st with the ACR disconnected or fuse pulled, then doing the compression test with them hooked up. Hooked up should show less compression than when disconnected. See below from the link:
IMO that is the best way to test the whole system. Remove one of the plugs and open throttle blade all the way. Perform compression check. Note numbers. Pull CR fuse and repeat test. Numbers should be different by about 30-40 psi.
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=108315.0
A little about me. I've been restoring classic cars for the past 35 years so I know how to turn a wrench. I do all my own service and the service and repairs for a dozen friends on their bikes. Am I pro at motorcycles, absolutely not but I know my way around for the most part. But this has me stumped so I came here because there are a lot of great bike mechanics on here.
My bike is meticulously maintained. My services and routine maintenance are all done as called for if not before. And it's as clean as the day it was new. But if the clutch feels the same as it did when new...why adjust it? Is there a reason other then the book say's every 10k? Or is that to just check it every 10k. I would think being a little loose for my issue is better then tight.
I just pulled the battery out, it's a Twin Power AGM battery with 310CCA. I believe that's what the bike calls for. I'm going to bring it down later and have it tested but I think it will be good.
The battery is in the middle of the bike, there's no easy way to get at it to put a charger. I have the pigtail for the trickle charger but that's not designed to take an actual 10amps from a charger.
The problem happens randomly, doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. I've tried to start and then restart the bike...again, randomly it still struggles.
The big question is....does anyone know how to test the automatic compression release? A search of the web hasn't really given me any answers.
I do appreciate your comments,
Thanks,
Steve
My bike is meticulously maintained. My services and routine maintenance are all done as called for if not before. And it's as clean as the day it was new. But if the clutch feels the same as it did when new...why adjust it? Is there a reason other then the book say's every 10k? Or is that to just check it every 10k. I would think being a little loose for my issue is better then tight.
I just pulled the battery out, it's a Twin Power AGM battery with 310CCA. I believe that's what the bike calls for. I'm going to bring it down later and have it tested but I think it will be good.
The battery is in the middle of the bike, there's no easy way to get at it to put a charger. I have the pigtail for the trickle charger but that's not designed to take an actual 10amps from a charger.
The problem happens randomly, doesn't matter if it's hot or cold. I've tried to start and then restart the bike...again, randomly it still struggles.
The big question is....does anyone know how to test the automatic compression release? A search of the web hasn't really given me any answers.
I do appreciate your comments,
Thanks,
Steve
Make sure they give you the CCA when they test it.
You should hear them click when you turn on the ignition, however, the fuel pump noise may also mask the click. If you have a mechanics stethoscope you may be able to listen for the click by putting it on the ACR which is in the center of the head.
You may also be able to check by doing a compression test, 1st with the ACR disconnected or fuse pulled, then doing the compression test with them hooked up. Hooked up should show less compression than when disconnected. See below from the link:
IMO that is the best way to test the whole system. Remove one of the plugs and open throttle blade all the way. Perform compression check. Note numbers. Pull CR fuse and repeat test. Numbers should be different by about 30-40 psi.
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=108315.0
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 17,894
Likes: 3,551
From: backwoods
Yes I am social out cast because I believe he should adjust his clutch more often than 17k miles. Unless it has changed.
Engine, clutch, transmission, starter all. Tied together. Not saying this it. But at least his clutch would be adjusted.
Be careful around Coolio he shoots senior citizens
Engine, clutch, transmission, starter all. Tied together. Not saying this it. But at least his clutch would be adjusted.
Be careful around Coolio he shoots senior citizens
Last edited by Rounders; Sep 21, 2023 at 03:43 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 611
Likes: 204
From: Long Island, NY
Pay little regard to posts or posters like this, you will find that these type posts have nothing to do with the original topic intent. If you follow or read some of his other posts you will see why most on here just ignore what he says and hold him in low regard.
No need to justify your mechanical ability or anything else. You ask a question and are getting some good input for the most part (except for the above persons "I think" comments).
Make sure they give you the CCA when they test it.
You should hear them click when you turn on the ignition, however, the fuel pump noise may also mask the click. If you have a mechanics stethoscope you may be able to listen for the click by putting it on the ACR which is in the center of the head.
You may also be able to check by doing a compression test, 1st with the ACR disconnected or fuse pulled, then doing the compression test with them hooked up. Hooked up should show less compression than when disconnected. See below from the link:
IMO that is the best way to test the whole system. Remove one of the plugs and open throttle blade all the way. Perform compression check. Note numbers. Pull CR fuse and repeat test. Numbers should be different by about 30-40 psi.
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=108315.0
No need to justify your mechanical ability or anything else. You ask a question and are getting some good input for the most part (except for the above persons "I think" comments).
Make sure they give you the CCA when they test it.
You should hear them click when you turn on the ignition, however, the fuel pump noise may also mask the click. If you have a mechanics stethoscope you may be able to listen for the click by putting it on the ACR which is in the center of the head.
You may also be able to check by doing a compression test, 1st with the ACR disconnected or fuse pulled, then doing the compression test with them hooked up. Hooked up should show less compression than when disconnected. See below from the link:
IMO that is the best way to test the whole system. Remove one of the plugs and open throttle blade all the way. Perform compression check. Note numbers. Pull CR fuse and repeat test. Numbers should be different by about 30-40 psi.
https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=108315.0
Going tonight to have the battery tested so that's good to know. Thanks again.
I have a compression test gauge so I'll give that a try.
And I will adjust my clutch even though I don't think it's necessary and unrelated ( I don't see how a mechanical clutch could make the clock go out.) but you never know.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 17,894
Likes: 3,551
From: backwoods
I doubt it is clutch. My longshot is providing drag on starter causing voltage to drop.
What about take both plugs out, put in, and see how it starts that would simulate compression release
What about take both plugs out, put in, and see how it starts that would simulate compression release
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 611
Likes: 204
From: Long Island, NY
I took the battery to the parts store, it's a year and a half old, I thought no way it was bad...... but they said it was. I didn't believe them so I brought it to another part store and they said the same thing. I called Harley where I bought it and the warranty is only for a year. So I just picked up a new battery. Luckily I had points on my Harley Visa card so it only cost me an additional $1.83. So that should fix the problem but I still think that there is an underlying reason why I've been through 2 batteries in 3 1/2 years. I guess time will tell with this battery.
Again, thanks everyone for all the suggestions it's always a learning curve..... I'll adjust the clutch just because...lol
Steve
Again, thanks everyone for all the suggestions it's always a learning curve..... I'll adjust the clutch just because...lol
Steve
Last edited by Monteman1971; Sep 21, 2023 at 05:45 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 17,894
Likes: 3,551
From: backwoods
I get 7 years,many people change at 5.
If you are in hot area they won't last as long
I don't leave it on a tender unless it has been a long time. Then will charge before I ride it.
I've had good luck with Harley batteries
If you are in hot area they won't last as long
I don't leave it on a tender unless it has been a long time. Then will charge before I ride it.
I've had good luck with Harley batteries
