As USB-A ports are fading away in importance, and USB-C is becoming the standard, I'd love to replace the OEM USB-A port on my Heritage with a USB-C port.
Easy enough to do, conceptually.
But bugger all if I can find an aftermarket kit already ginned up so I could just drop in a replacement to the OEM USB-A port. I don't suppose any of you folk have ever found such a kit or done it yourselves, have you?

If I have to fabricate it all myself, I suppose I will, eventually. Though I might well go with a handlebar mount for USB-C at that point.

 

While I cannot really answer your question, I would be inclined to say in spite of the slightly slower speed, just purchase a good (yes some are better than others) USB-A to USB-C cable. Maybe a few just to have in various situations. And that way you are covered for most "legacy" situations for you or friends. I am in the audiovisual business and they talked about the analog sunset in terms of computer VGA for MANY years until we finally started seeing the beginning of the end of that just a few years ago. In fact, some commercial TVs still have an HD15 connection!

Back your original question, there are the questions of fitment as well as operation. Granted I do not know electronics, I would think even if the wiring is there and the mounting could even be an easy swap, would it carry the speed USB-C demands to make all this worth it?

Food for thought sir.

 

If you're just talking about the USB charging port under the tank there is no transfer speed, since there's no data, it's just the shape of the plug. It'd be easier and cheaper to buy a few more A-C cables that to swap the female end in the box.

 

Just buy an adapter


JXMOX USB C Female to USB Male Adapter 4-Pack, Type C to USB A Charger Cable




Or go the other way.


USB C to USB Adapter, Type C Thunderbolt 4 OTG Converter, USB C Male to USB 3.0 Female Adapter (3-Pack)

 

Let me clarify. I'm after the increased power of a USB-C output port.
I'm well aware of using a converter cable, and will if I have to when the time arises. I already use a USB-A to Lightning cable.

But, I am disappointed in the very low power output of the existing Harley USB-A output. It barely keeps up with my current phone running just a single navigation app. Yes, this is with the same power cable I use on other bikes and cars with a USB-A power port. It's only with the Heritage that it has trouble staying charged up.

It's just an oddity, to me, that no one makes a drop-in USB-C replacement for these bikes. I was hoping perhaps someone here knew of one, as I haven't found one anywhere.

I suppose I will probably go with the Quadlock waterproof USB-C cable system instead.
​​​​​​https://www.quadlockcase.com/product...41762570043563

 

Oh, you want increased amperage, not just the USB-C outlet. Why don't you pick up something like this and drill out the stock USB housing to fit? Dual USB Charger Socket Adapter Waterproof Car Fast Charger 5V 4.2A For Mobile Phone with Voltmeter & Wire in-line 10A Fuse for 12-24V Car Boat Motorcycle 2024 - $10.99 (lightinthebox.com)

EDIT: Here's a better one USB C Car Charger PD QC3.0 Dual USB Car Charger Socket 12V 24V Phone Charge Power Adapter for Motorcycle Boat Marine Truck ATV 2024 - $10.99 (lightinthebox.com)

 

...and make sure the wire in the harness is up to 100W, or whatever class of usb c you are aiming at.

 

I apologize. Yes there is definitely a speed difference between USB-A to USB-C vs. straight USB-C. Not bad to keep a phone on a full charge riding all day, using maps, music, whatever. Slight loss but you could probably get through the day ok. But bringing a phone back up to full charge from 20, 30 or 40% would be struggle. A dual port (one USB-A and one USB-C) with full power on the USB-C side for new HD models would be keeping up with the times and something riders should propose to designers at HD who will listen.

 

This is solved by just buying a USB A to USB C cable. Done. Yes, you could get an adapter but now you have another point of failure and another point where moisture can get in.

 

Doesn't address the low power output of the OEM USB-A port on the bike. That's what I want to improve.