Will wrapping it help ?
If you guys want LOUD, I will say, of all the slip ons I looked at, the Tab performance w/ Zombie baffles is what I went with. Loud, set off car alarms and rattled window sills loose.. kind of "unrefined" sound, especially on the decel. Since my cats went bye, I added a SE tuner (warranty), and after figuring out the smart tune it ran like a dream. and the price aint too bad.
H-D Sport Glide Chrome Tip Compatible Exhaust (tabperformance.com)
---I'm selling my tab zombies, went to a full system, but they dont match for the sport glide.
**EDIT**
heres a link to the vid that sold me on them. I never took a vid of mine, but this is pretty close to in person, especially with alot of the nonsense staticy soundsclips online.
All Baffle Combinations Comparison - TAB Performance (youtube.com)
**EDIT AGAIN**
No, I dont work for Tab lol
I had the tab with zombie on my Sport Glide before the rinehart - by far the best sound on a stock slip on IMO! I swapped in the 2.5 because I felt it was a little milder and better for my neighbors, which is was. I then acquired a Rinehart for cheap, which is basically between the 2.5 Tab and the Zombie and I swap that out every once in a while when I want to be a touch louder.
So ya, don't talk about header tape. FYI... I did wrap my headers, but hot is still hot. Didn't help much.
So slip ons.... I happen to know a thing or two about acoustics... And from my own experience with my own mufflers...
I cut my baffles out. Sounded like crap, giant cave. I put perf pipe baffles in. It reduced the cave sound a bit. I wrapped my perf pipe with fiberglass. It reduced it more, refined it a bit. I also put in lollipops... A bit better... So...
Bass... And all low frequency sound is the hardest to attenuated and requires the most space. High frequencies are the easiest. Fiberglass wrap attenuated a lot of mid/upper... You lose that "bark", rasp.. Less angry. Since that is a lot of the sound it is definitely quieter. Most definitely not louder... As in, that violates simple physics.
If you really do want it louder... You are not going to get it much louder. You need a full exhaust. OEM cats are in the mufflers. If you got 49 state legal... You have cats in the mufflers. But they expand to such large diameters, and there is two... They are not much of a restriction, and they are not going to quiet much sound.
If your baffles are removable... Then remove them. See what they sound like. My guess is you will like some of it more, and some of it less. It's not going to fundamentally change your exhaust. Taking out the OEM baffles is a big change cause you have no idea how restrictive the path is.
But all said... What I ended up with, I still kept my baffles wrapped, but cut them down from 12 inches to 9. They sounded OK, certainly better than stock... But also a little annoying after a while. A touch droney. And it had no anger, that bark. Not that I wanted super loud, but I wanted more bark. I did all that cause I knew it was temporary... I recently got my full Jackpot Riot exhaust on.... And that is just pure music to my ears. They have baffles too with no fiberglass.
Hummm... I can neither confirm nor deny... I would have to take it out, all I can see is perf pipe.... doh, forgot I had a skinny mirror. It looks like something is in there... Not fiberglass. What is mule tape? Regardless, I have zero reason to change it.
Last edited by Powermankw; Sep 24, 2024 at 09:44 PM.
If so, that's classic old-fashioned "glasspack" mufflers.
They are loudest with no fiberglass packing around them.
Fiberglass tape and fiberglass muffler packing are two different things.
Fiberglass packing is loose, and rather loosely stuffed or wrapped around that pipe. The exhaust sounds go up into the loose-ish packing, bounce around, and basically fade out. That's basically how foam acoustic panels in a sound lab work.
Fiberglass tape is tight and dense. Wrapping that pipe with it would have lesser effect on absorbing and dissipating the sound. It would be roughly akin to painting the acoustic panels in a sound lab. That said, it would block a lot of the sound coming through that pipes holes from reaching the outer can, so it may well reduce peripheral noise from the pipes, particularly to the side, and may have a far greater effect than I'm forecasting.
Exhaust flow wise, neither tape nor matting should have a significant impact, because of the way inner pipes perforations are cut into it. They will still be right in the exhaust flow, and still facing the same way.
In any case, you can certainly try both approaches, glass tape and glass matting, and simply see what the results are.
Last edited by foxtrapper; Sep 25, 2024 at 09:40 AM.
If so, that's classic old-fashioned "glasspack" mufflers.
They are loudest with no fiberglass packing around them.
Fiberglass tape and fiberglass muffler packing are two different things.
Fiberglass packing is loose, and rather loosely stuffed or wrapped around that pipe. The exhaust sounds go up into the loose-ish packing, bounce around, and basically fade out. That's basically how foam acoustic panels in a sound lab work.
Fiberglass tape is tight and dense. Wrapping that pipe with it would have lesser effect on absorbing and dissipating the sound. It would be roughly akin to painting the acoustic panels in a sound lab. That said, it would block a lot of the sound coming through that pipes holes from reaching the outer can, so it may well reduce peripheral noise from the pipes, particularly to the side, and may have a far greater effect than I'm forecasting.
Exhaust flow wise, neither tape nor matting should have a significant impact, because of the way inner pipes perforations are cut into it. They will still be right in the exhaust flow, and still facing the same way.
In any case, you can certainly try both approaches, glass tape and glass matting, and simply see what the results are.
And to go further... You attenuated energy by velocity or pressure. Fiberglass reduces velocity making it pass thru a tortuous path. Barriers are pressure based. So if sound goes Thru a baffle and bounces off a barrier and back thru... It's diminished. And all that is dependent on how thick and how long the wave is. Low frequencies have very long waves... 20ft, and you need half that to attenuate 10ft, and a barrier doubles, so 5ft.
The whole point of that is baffles attenuates sound, and fiberglass attenuates more... But you are talking an inch of space... You are only effecting waves in that length range... All you are effecting is treble, but don't touch mid/low. Sounds good, but that can leave drony, bloated sounding. And we certainly are not talking meaningful dB changes.
Full open exhausts are a different discussion. There is only so much you will get out of slip ons. Better sounding than stock for sure, but they will never sound like a full exhaust... And short shots are top end of all out obnoxious.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Yes stage 2 does add up, but you need stage one first. I don't think a cam on what you have is the right move. You can simply get a full exhaust. Cam will give lope, but pipes give sound. Yes you should get a tuner... But full pipes and tuner... M8s really respond. Not only will it run and perform better, it will most definitely sound better. Price for installing just the cam alone will cost the same or more, and you still need the tuner.
Cam is definitely not your only option. I appologize if I'm reading that wrong.
Last edited by Powermankw; Sep 26, 2024 at 01:27 AM.


















